Chinese Luxury: Hands-On Atelier Wen Perception Review
Historically, when people think about Chinese-made wristwatches, their impressions haven’t been good. Perhaps it’s due to the vast market of counterfeit watches that are seemingly everywhere. Or maybe, the the unbranded copies that seem to populate websites like Alibaba have something to do with this perception.
Whatever the reason, historically, opinion on Chinese watches hasn’t been high. But opinions have begun to change. Brands like Behrens, CIGA Design and Atelier Wen have broken the mold and ushered in a new era in Chinese watchmaking, creating timepieces that can compete with their Swiss counterparts.
Founded in 2018, Atelier Wen has quickly made a name for itself. But it wasn’t until the brand released their second collection, the Perception, that the brand really reached real acclaim.
At its core, the Perception is an integrated bracelet stainless steel sport watch, not dissimilar to the Gerald Genta-designed Audemars Piguet Royal Oak or Patek Philippe Nautilus. Indeed, there are actually some design cues that seem to be inspired by the Nautilus in particular. The case features “wings” on either side, something that is most commonly associated with the Nautilus. The wings on the Perception are a little less severe and give the case a little bit more of a square feel.
Speaking of the case, it is nicely sized at 40mm in diameter by 47mm lug-to-lug. So even with the case wings flaring out, it doesn’t feel oversized on the wrist. On top of that, it is a slim 9.4mm thick. This is even more impressive given the fact that the watch is powered by a Chinese automatic movement (more on that later).
Because of these dimensions, the watch just wears incredibly well, especially on my 6.75 inch wrist. In the days where more and more people are wearing steel sport watches with suits (or even to black tie weddings), having a watch that fits easily under the cuff is a must. Additionally, given the watch’s lack of true lugs, and the way the bracelet fits to the case, the watch is a tight fit around the wrist. I know some people often cite the Royal Oak as a watch that wears much bigger than its size, due to the way the bracelet attaches to the case (and I for one can vouch for that). The Perception doesn’t suffer this flaw, and feels really good while wearing.
Speaking of the bracelet, the Perception’s is a winner. Perhaps the most important part of an integrated bracelet watch is the bracelet design. And creating a unique bracelet is extremely hard to do. But Atelier Wen has managed to pull this off. The bracelet is made of single piece H-links that are held together by hexagonal pieces. This design fits well with the case design and together it really is a cohesive design.
The bracelet tapers from 22mm at the case to 18mm at the clasp and is brushed. All edges of the bracelet, including the inner edges of the links are chamfered and polished. I like this detail as it removes all the harsh edges. But it also shows the attention to detail that the team at Atelier Wen adheres to. To me, the details in the case and bracelet put it on par with the brand’s Swiss made competitors, similar in quality to brands like Christopher Ward or Oris (both of which are in a similar price-point). The bracelet also has a pretty ingenious microadjust that you can actually use while the watch is on your wrist. By pushing the in the logo on the clasp, you can slide the bracelet to give you a little more room.
While the case and bracelet are both extremely well executed, it is the dial that is the real star of the show. The dial is not just a guilloche-pattern, but actually hand-guilloched by Master Cheng, the sole Guilloché Master Craftsman in mainland China. Because it is hand-guilloched, each dial is hand-made, using a machine operated by Master Cheng. And the result is simply stunning. While it also is offered in a salmon (or copper) guilloche, I reviewed the light blue model. The guilloche-pattern not only radiates out from the center of the dial with additional detailing upon closer inspection. The result is a true conversation starter, and something I don’t think I’ve ever seen on a watch just above $3,000. I mean, apparently it takes Master Cheng 8 hours to complete a single dial.
The biggest worry I could see potential buyers having is in the movement. The movement is the extra-thin, Dandong SL1588 automatic movement (Dandong is also known as Peacock for those familiar). Atelier Wen has regulated the movement to +/- 10 seconds per day (compared to the standard -15/+25) and has regulated the movement in five positions. It beats at 4hz and boasts a power reserve of 41 hours. Historically, Chinese movements haven’t been the most reliable. But Atelier Wen worked with Dandong to create this movement specifically for them. The brand notes that they have tested the movement movements for both shock and durability, so at least there is some added assurance. Additionally, it is water resistant to 100 meters and has a screw down crown (a nice touch).
The movement can be seen through a small section of the caseback. It is well-finished if nothing spectacular. I think that might be why they opted to have a Chinese lion motif engraved into the caseback. Indeed, the display portion of the caseback is where the mouth would be. This seems like a good decision to me. I want to know my watch is automatic, and to be able to see the movement, but it is not pretty enough to warrant a fully opened caseback. The lion fits the personality of the watch and is much more interesting. Perhaps the only (slight) criticism I have is the rotor. It seems to be a standard, off-the-shelf black rotor with no customization. At a $3,000-ish price-point, I would have hoped Atelier Wen developed something of their own. But perhaps they didn’t want to take away from the ornate lion engraving.
Overall, the Atelier Wen Perception ticks most of the boxes in a luxury stainless steel integrated bracelet watch. The case, bracelet, and dial are all very unique, and the price-point is attractive, even with a Chinese movement. I understand people wanting to wait and see how the movement holds up over time, but I don’t think that would stop me from purchasing the watch right now. Unique designs are harder and harder to come by these days, and the Perception is as unique as they come. It retails for $3,288 USD.
