Breguet Type XX 2067RK Rose Gold Hands-On Review
Breguet, like IWC and Breitling, has quite the history creating pilot’s watches. As I discussed in my recent review of the Type 20 Chronograph, the Type 20 was first designed in the 1950s for the French Naval Air Army (typically, the Type 20 refers to vintage military issued watches, while Type XX refers to watches sold into the civilian market. Breguet’s recent releases of both the Type 20 and Type XX, however, were made for the civilian market).
When Breguet updated their pilot watches last year, they did so while remaining loyal to the aesthetics of the original timepieces they were modeled after, while also providing some much needed updates. Some may consider this “safe”, but a lot of brands are pulling from their archives for their new pieces. And, I must admit, creating something recognizable and historic is a good place to start when refreshing a collection.
This year, however, Breguet has gone a little bolder in expanding their pilot collection, releasing a new variation of the 2067, but this time in rose gold (hereto referenced as the 2067RK). And while the new 2067RK shares the same general proportions and dial layout as the steel version released last year, it is much more modern in interpretation.
First of all, it makes sense to me that the Type XX, rather than the Type 20, gets the gold treatment. A model historically meant for civilian use makes more sense in gold than one meant for the military. But, I also think aesthetically it makes more sense as well. Let me get into why.
The new 2067RK features the same 3 subdial configuration as the steel variation. Though it is a Bigeye (meaning it has a larger chronograph minutes subregister), the 2067 is clearly a more mass market and accessible chronograph in terms of design. And in rose gold I truly think the 2067RK extends beyond those just looking for a handsome pilot’s chronograph. Further, I think the coin-edged bezel of the military-style 2057 just makes so much more sense in steel. To me, it would take away from the aura of what the 2057 is meant to be and stand for if offered in gold. So obviously, the place to go for at little more luxury is the 2067.
The Type XX 2067RK is modern in pretty much every way the steel variation is not. The black matte dial has been replaced with a blue sunray dial. The steel bezel insert has been upgraded to a blue ceramic, matching the blue dial. The alpha hands have been replaced with syringe hands. And finally, the indices are applied rather than painted on, giving the watch a bit of a more luxury (and Breguet) feel. What this says to me is that Breguet really thought out how to turn the 2067 into a luxury gold chronograph. They weren’t content with just changing the dial color and throwing it into a gold case. Pretty much everything about the watch, aside from the case shape and font of the hour markers and bezel markers, has been changed. So while there are obviously similarities to the steel variation, it feels very much like its own watch.
As I said, the dial details are what really set this new variation apart from the steel version. The sunray affect is slight, although noticeable, due to the deeper hue of the blue. The applied indexes and hands are rose gold, matching the case. And the bezel markers are gold as well. The rose gold case/blue dial combination is really nice, and not something I currently see in Breguet’s catalog. So the release of this chronograph really fills a hole for Breguet.
At 42mm in diameter, the Type XX 2067RK is not a small watch by any means. But to me, the lug-to-lug measurement is much more important. And at 48.8mm lug-to-lug 2with the lugs curved downwards, it doesn’t wear that large. I thought the watch was workable on my 6.75 in wrist. I will note, however, that the watch is 14.1mm thick. It is not exactly a watch you are going to slip under the cuff. But even with the rose gold case, the ceramic bezel and sunray dial, make it a bit more of a sporty piece. This is evidenced by the fact that the it comes with two straps: a more traditional blue alligator leather and a blue and white NATO-style strap. If you opt for the NATO-style strap, which I actually like very much, the watch is going to feel a couple millimeters thicker on the wrist. But hey, you aren’t going to a formal occasion with a NATO strap on (or maybe you are).
The 2067RK runs in the Caliber 728 automatic winding movement, released in 2023 with the steel 2067. It is a flyback chronograph with date, small seconds, and 15-minute and 12-hour counters. The Caliber 728 beats at 5hz and has a 60 hour power reserve. It has column wheel, vertical clutch and an inverted in-line lever escapement with a flat silicon balance spring. This helps to increase durability and adds magnetic resistance. It is well finished, but definitely has a more sporty look to it. It is water resistance to 100 meters, which is more than enough for me.
I really don’t have many issues with the 2067RK. The one criticism I hear from collectors is regarding the date. It is placed right between the 4 and 5 o’clock hour markers. It is a little awkward, but there really is no other place for it. Is a date window necessary? Perhaps not, especially with modern technology available to tell us the date with a glance of our phone. But it doesn’t bother me as much as it does others. Maybe in the future, Breguet will decide to offer variations with and without a date, letting the customer the ultimate decision.
So, who is the Breguet Type XX 2067RK for? I think it is perfect for the collector who likes the history of the Type 20, but wants something a little more modern and updated. The combination of the warm rose gold case and blue sunray dial is truly stunning and makes the watch something I could see as an everyday wear for myself. It retails for $37,900 USD.
