11 Chinese Watch Brands and Their Best Watches

When you hear the words ‘Chinese Watch’ or ‘Chinese Brand’ our minds seem to automatically associate them with fakes, fake watch factories, low quality, AliExpress and cheap pieces. Many watch collectors would consider these to be an insult to the watchmaking culture and that watches must be manufactured in Switzerland. However, the Chinese watch industry is a lot more prestigious, innovative, and creative than the common misconception would let on. Some of the finest artisans and luxury brands hail from China, and recently have been stirring up the status quo and us showing us their true colors and quality materials. We have put together a guide that takes you through our favorite brands and their best designs. Without further ado let’s get into our list of the best Chinese watch brands and best Chinese watches.

CIGA Design

CIGA Design is a relatively new player in the watch industry, founded only in the last 10 years or so. The English name is derived from the Chinese word for ‘amazing’- XIJIA. Mainly focused on the domestic Chinese market, where it makes almost 90% of its sales, CIGA has been gradually expanding into Europe and North America. It’s first forays outside of China showed just how avant-garde and original its designs proved to be. Winning numerous Red Dot Design Awards, CIGA have indeed accomplished what their founder, Zhang Jianmin, set out to do: bring something new and unique into the industry. Let’s have a look at their flagship model, the CIGA Blue Planet…

U-Series Blue Planet GPHG Titanium

Price: $999 USD; Case: Titanium, 46mm; Water Resistance: 30m; Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire.

The U-Series Blue Planet GPHG Titanium is CIGA’s flagship model. Having won the 2021 Edition’s Challenge Watch Prize, the Blue Planet definitely put the brand on the map, showcasing true innovation. This unique timekeeping device has creatively reimagined how we display the time. Many brands have started using discs in recent years, but CIGA have taken it to a whole new level. The hemisphere indicates the time using the North arrow. The minutes are displayed by a second rotating disc which moves simultaneously with the hemisphere. Thus the North arrow indicates both the hour and the minutes in one single point. The large dimensions of the piece are completely offset by the titanium case. This imaginative and unique watch retails for $999 USD. Our review of the CIGA Design Blue Planet is available here.

Atelier Wen

Atelier Wen have been producing high-end wristwatches inspired by classical Chinese design since 2018. Having only released two models over this period, you can guarantee that each one has been thought out and minutely assembled. Over the last five years, they have been continuously improving their designs and craftsmanship and have mastered the art of guilloché perfectly. Showcasing the best of oriental design and expertise, Atelier Wen are collaborating with some of the biggest names in the watch industry, such as Hong Kong-based Wristcheck, or Paris-based artist and customizer Seconde/Seconde.

Perception

Price: $3,288 USD; Case: Stainless Steel, 40mm; Water Resistance: 100m; Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire.

The Perception line are Atelier Wen’s only model in production at the time of writing- that’s not really a problem because it’s absolutely fantastic. Available in 3 main colours- blue, grey, or salmon- or in one of the numerous limited editions, the dials on these watches are a sight to behold. Each one has a unique guilloché pattern that has been hand-machined into the metal with a rose engine. The rest of the watch is fitting of the beauty of the dial. The bracelet is seamlessly integrated into the case. The caseback is unique- two thirds of the component are engraved with Chinese mythical creatures, whilst the remaining third allows you to catch a glimpse of the high-quality finish on the movement and stainless steel case. If you fancy getting your hands on one of these, they retail for $3,288 USD.

BEHRENS

In 2012, a group of watch enthusiasts and designers came together in Shenzhen with one goal in mind: creating unique and expressive time-keeping structures. This group became Behrens. Note the use of structures as this is the best term to describe what the brand is actually doing. They have shunned the traditional codes and regulations that have governed the industry for years. Their pieces are extremely avant-garde and have been recognized for this numerous times, including at the GPHG in 2020, where they received two nominations. Behrens is now moving up in the industry and is partnering with renowned artisans such as Konstantin Chaykin.

Joker

Price: $35,800 USD; Case: Titanium, 42mm; Water Resistance: 50m; Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire.

Konstantin Chaykin is one of the watch world’s biggest names and most ingenious inventors. Most famous for his Joker design, Chaykin has partnered with Behrens to create a limited run of 200 hundred pieces. This unique collaboration has taken the iconic design’s best characteristics and put an original spin on it. The frosted effect on the titanium case gives the joker face an intriguing look, making the crazy features stand out more. The time is displayed by the two sub-dials, and the seconds are displayed by a unique seconds hand that follows an elliptical path. This piece is in high-demand and was available for retail for $35,800 USD.

Apolar

Price: $3,420; Case: Stainless Steel, 42mm; Water Resistance: 50m; Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire.

Nominated for the GPHG Best Calendar and Astronomy Prize in 2020, the Behrens Apolar is one of the coolest looking moonphase watches available on the market. The time is displayed on the discs at 6 o’clock position. The star of the show is definitely the large moon indicator that orbits around the centra globe that indicates the world time. The finishing is exquisite and is punching way above its weight class. Retailing for $3,420 USD, the Apolar is a fantastic watch.

Memorigin

Memorigin are a Hong Kong based manufacturer who specialize in two distinct crafts that they combine in their designs: Chinese high-jewelry and the Tourbillion. This is their distinguishing characteristic, as possibly the only brand who exclusively produce tourbillion watches. Inspired by folklore, myths, and legends, their designs are full of oriental charm and legacy. Boasting one of the most extensive and complete catalogues, Memorigin have a watch that suits every style, taste, and budget.

Explorer Series Steel Bracelet

Price: $6,250 USD; Case: Stainless Steel, 39mm; Water Resistance: 70m; Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire.

The Memorigin Explorer Series is an interesting take on the integrated sports watch. The time display is on a sub-dial at the twelve o’clock position, the date is indicated by a pointer sub-dial, and the flying tourbillon is visible through the aperture at nine o’clock. The sapphire caseback displays the carefully finished micro-rotor movement, which means that the watch just slips under the 10mm thickness mark. The integrated bracelet and case are angular and dynamic, capable of facing any situation- fit for a modern explorer. The watch is available at retail for $6,250 USD.

Sea-Gull

Sea-Gull is one of the most talked about Chinese watch brands outside of the luxury market. Possibly one of the oldest, Sea-Gull was started in 1955 by the Chinese government to supply its armed forces with quality timepieces. Made most famous by the 1963 pilot’s chronograph, Sea-Gull has been using Swiss designed, but Chinese manufactured movements, since the beginning when it purchased machinery from a Swiss brand. Today, Sea-Gull watch produces a range of designs that accessible, reliable, and good-looking.

Seagull 1963 Pilots Chronograph

Price: $712 USD; Case: Steel, 40mm; Water Resistance: 30m; Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire.

The Sea-Gull 1963 Pilot’s Chronograph is perhaps one of the best known affordable and great quality Chinese watches. Packed full of history, this watch has barely changed since it was initially designed in the 1950s. Often wrongfully written off as a fake or low quality, this watch just goes to show how capable the Chinese industry is. Offering features, such as the automatic chronograph movement or a sapphire crystal, the Seagull 1963 shows how much European prices might be inflated by. Available at retail for $712 USD, this watch can often be found for significantly less. A Seagull watch is a great option for anyone who wants a reliable piece with a touch of vintage charm and a great story.

Qin Gan

Qin Gan is one China’s most talented independent watch makers. Based out of Chongqing, he produces some of the most exquisite, complicated, and beautiful pieces and movements. Every component in his watches have been painstakingly and lovingly crafted and finished by the craftsman himself. Filled with a very personal and cultural essence, the watches exude uniqueness and understated beauty. Qin Gan has balanced the creation of his own designs with the restoration of antique clocks, giving him a superior mastery and understanding of his craft.

Pastorale II

Price: $9,000 USD; Case: Steel, 38.5mm; Water Resistance: 30m; Movement: Manual Winding; Crystal: Sapphire.

Whilst Qin Gan is probably most well-known for his iconic Dragonfly quarter repeater, the Pastorale II is the artisan’s most available piece. Limited to a run of 50 pieces, the Pastorale II is based on the 1930s Longines L30 movement that has been painstakingly assembled and finished by hand in his Chongqing workshop. The dial is textbook- roman numerals, elegant hands, and small-seconds dial- it really is no frills. This is the essence of traditional dress watches. The current steel versions retail for around $9,000 USD, with precious metal versions expected to sell for $15,000 USD and up.

Kiu Tai Yu

Kiu Tai Yu is perhaps one of the most impressive and prestigious independent watchmakers in China, possibly even in the world. Based out of Hong Kong for the majority of his career, KTY produced some of most original and highly sought-after pieces. Limited to 20 pieces, his watches are incredibly hard to get hold of and for good reason: Kiu Tai Yu is credited with the creation of the first tourbillion in Asia, something that very few people thought was possible. Embodying the spirit of craftsmanship, he constantly pioneered his designs, refining them until they were perfect. His technical mastery has even resulted in major brands, such as Montblanc or Zenith, using his ‘Mystery Tourbillion’ construction. Sadly, Kiu Tai Yu passed away in 2020.

Kiu Tai Yu Year of the Pig Commemoration 2007

Price: $8,000 USD; Case: Rose Gold, 35mm; Water Resistance: 30m; Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire.

If there’s one thing Kiu Tai Yu’s creations are, its limited. Most of his creations were limited to 20 pieces- this one was limited to 50, however we know that far less were actually made. This watch is quintessentially Chinese in its design. The case is ornately engraved motifs and Chinese characters, whilst the dial takes 4 numeral systems into account, giving it the feel of a cultural mixing-pot, much like Hong Kong where KTY was based. Overall, the watch is a reminder of how unique and spirit imbued the independent watchmaking industry is. It retailed for $8,000 USD.

Celadon

Celadon was founded in 2012 with a precise goal in mind: refute the clichés about Chinese watchmaking. A fair assessment of the brand’s progression since then would be saying ‘mission accomplished’. Championing the phrase ‘Made in China with pride’, Celadon have established the rules and codes that will define Chinese High-Horology for decades. The brand split into two divisions: the Haute Horlogerie and the Maison.

Century Cloisonné ‘Duo of Swallows’

Price: $14,900 USD; Case: Steel, 42mm; Water Resistance: 30m; Movement: Manual Winding; Crystal: Sapphire.

The Haute Horlogerie pieces in Celadon’s catalog are a complex affair. Only available on commission, these watches are almost entirely custom-made due to the numerous options and choices that can be made during the process, which takes almost 12 months. The dial is completely handmade, depicting a scene or artwork using the traditional enameling technique. The handset is made by the artisan himself and have been designed to look like a peacock’s tail feathers. When commission the watch you have a choice between 2 beautiful hand-finished movements. The Century Cloisonné from Celadon Haute Horlogerie starts at $14,900 USD and can cost upwards of $29,900 USD.

Imperial Plum

Price: $1,280; Case: Stainless Steel, 38mm; Water Resistance: 50m; Movement: Manual Winding; Crystal: Sapphire.

The Celadon Imperial Plum is one of the models available in the brand’s Maison Collection. This beautiful piece is a dress watch through and through. Sitting at 38mm in width and just over 9mm in height, it is as discreet as anything. Coming in a wide variety of elegant and refined hues, this watch gives you ample choice. The dial is a sublime affair, the oriental guilloché pattern is entrancing. The movement, visible through the sapphire caseback, is made by Celadon in-house and is just gorgeous. Limited to 50 pieces per color, the Imperial Plum can be bought for $1,280 USD.

Lin Yong Hua

Lin Yong Hua is one of China’s youngest independent horological artisans. Having produced numerous impressive and complicated pieces, LYH has drawn much attention to his work. In 2019, he was made a member of the prestigious Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI) - an organization that counts artisans such as F.P. Journe and Konstantin Chaykin. His most famous work is the 2016 Vinyl Record Watch, that pays tribute to the transition from analogue to digital music. His other designs take inspiration from the 5000-year history of Chinese culture and art. Clearly not only Swiss watches are works of art.

The Vinyl Record Watch

Price: $10,000 USD or $28,000 USD; Case: Steel or Titanium, 41mm; Water Resistance: 30m; Movement: Manual Winding; Crystal: Sapphire.

The Vinyl Record Watch by Lin Yong Hua is an exceptional piece. The design was first released in 2016, and pays tribute to the vinyl era of music, which like mechanical watches and haute horlogerie has seen a strong resurgence recently. The watch mimics a record player, with time being displayed on a striated disc- the record. The movement that powers the watch is seamless integrated into the dial side, and on the wrist side is quite the spectacle with its beautiful and ornate musical details. This specific edition is made out of titanium for a weightless wearing experience. It can be purchased for 28,000 USD in titanium or $10,000 USD in steel.</a

FIYTA

FIYTA, founded in 1987, are a brand that are focused on delivering precise, accurate, reliable, and functional time pieces with a unique twist. Heavily inspired by the aviation industry, their watches are the pilot’s watches of the future - maybe even the designs for the space age. The audacious and innovative stance that the brand takes has produced some unique and original designs — Let’s see what they’re all about:

Aeronautic GA880112.WLW

Price: 6,880 CNY; Case: Stainless Steel, 42mm; Water Resistance: 100m; Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire.

The Fiyta Aeronautic GA880112.WLW is a good example of what FIYTA as a brand have strived to achieve. Based off a previous model worn by a Chinese astronaut, this iteration has taken it up to another level. Offering excellent value for money, this watch has got it all. Powered by a super reliable Sellita SW-200 series calibre, it won’t let you down on performance. The case and integrated bracelet are definitely the standout components, looking dynamic and unique. The package is finished off by a really sharp and legible dial. Designed for exploration, this watch is the ultimate companion if you’re looking for a go anywhere, do anything piece. It retails for 6,880 CNY.

Extreme GA866010.BBB

Price: $614 USD; Case: 44mm; Water Resistance: 50m; Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire.

The Extreme GA866010.BBB is a completely different type of watch to the aforementioned model from Fiyta. Showing the versatility of their capabilities, Fiyta have got quite an impressive piece under their belt here. Inspired by the aggressive and dynamic design language of race cars, this watch mimics the perforated pattern found on high performance disc rotors, with the date and power-reserve being indicated like on a dashboard. The Tourbillion is by far the mopst impressive part of this watch, especially considering the price point. The Extreme GA866010.BBB can be purchased for $634.17 USD.

Peacock 1957

Founded in 1973, Peacock have been at the forefront of Chinese watchmaking for the masses since the beginning. Born out of Dandong, which was dubbed ‘Geneva of the East’ due to the budding watchmaking industry that started there in 1957, Peacock’s numerous innovations have been pushing the boundaries. In 2002, they produced their first Tourbillion, swiftly followed by their first double tourbillion, a first for China. The designs are modern, dynamic, and original, whilst retaining the quality and craftsmanship that has been imbued in the brand since the beginning.

Dual-Tourbillion Plume Monarch

Price: $47,500 USD; Case: Steel and Gold, 45mm; Water Resistance: 50m; Movement: Manual Winding; Crystal: Sapphire.

The Plume Monarch Dual-Tourbillion from Peacock is a rather interesting watch with a unique story. The model is the first dual tourbillion to be built in China, and has been since 2012. This watch’s spec sheet is worthy of a Roger Dubuis- so is the price tag for that matter! The design itself is very dynamic and angular, which matches the aggressive black and gold colorway. Balanced out by the fine craftsmanship that’s gone into the movement, this watch is a very complete piece. It retails for $47,500 USD. And now you know that high quality tourbillon watches are being produced in China.

Black Hole

Price: $3,799 USD; Case: Stainless Steel, 46mm; Water Resistance: 50m; Movement: Manual Winding; Crystal: Sapphire.

The Peacock Black Hole is as intriguing as it sounds. The black donut shaped build has been designed to showcase the tourbillion that has been placed in the center of the piece, something that rarely happens. The time is displayed by a rotating disc for the hours and a large pointer for the minutes. The build is mesmerizing, and you could spend hours just staring at it. The sapphire case back is just as entrancing. The concentric swirls etched onto the movement’s baseplate are a magnet for attention, which kind of detracts from being able to see straight through the watch. This magnificently modern piece retails for $3,799 USD.