12 German Watch Brands and Their Best Watches
Whilst it may not have the lengthy and prestigious heritage of the Swiss industry, German watchmaking has been around for several centuries and has been at the forefront of industrial development and innovation. Whilst the country traversed a historical period of political, social, and economic unrest for much of the 20th century, even being divided between 1945 and 1990, the watchmakers and manufactures of Germany miraculously managed to make it through. Since reunification in 1990, the German industry, which is mostly located in Saxony around the region of Glashütte, the historical cradle of horology, has seen a massive resurgence across all fronts. From high-horology artisans to progressive designers, let’s dive straight in and see the best german watch brands and the best german watches…
A. Lange & Söhne
There is no better brand to start this guide off with than A. Lange & Söhne. Founded in 1845 by Ferdinand Adolph Lange, a contemporary and classmate of the likes of Abraham-Louis Breguet and others. Upon his return to Dresden in Germany, Lange sets up his manufacture in the hopes of unsettling the hegemonic presence of the Anglo-Swiss industries. The brand continued to develop, in Glashütte, after Lange’s death, even under the Soviet Union, but was properly reignited by Walter Lange (Ferdinand Lange’s great-grandson) as a fine watchmaking manufacture in the 1990s, where they have been producing ultra-luxury time-pieces that have indeed unsettled the Switzerland dominated trade as their founder intended.
Zeitwerk
Price: Upon Request; Case: Platinum, 42mm; Water Resistance: 30m; Movement: Manual Winding; Crystal: Sapphire.
The A.Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk in 950 platinum is one of the most understated Haute-Horlogerie designs to come out of the German manufacture. Simplicity is at the heart of the design, a recurring theme in this sector of the industry some may say. The time is displayed digitally using a jump minute and jump hour mechanism, powered by the wonderfully complex manually wound caliber visible through the display caseback. The movement also has an extended power-reserve of 72 hour compared to the previous iteration. The unique style of A.Lange & Söhne is omnipresent throughout the monochromatic piece, exuding elegance and class. The watch is available, in several precious metals, for an undisclosed sum.
Datograph Up/Down
Price: Upon Request; Case: Platinum, 41mm; Water Resistance: 30m; Movement: Manual Winding ; Crystal: Sapphire.
Whilst the previous watch was all about minimalist complexity, the Datograph Up/Down is a completely different kettle of fish. Insanely complicated, this piece is one the manufacture’s flagship designs incorporating all of their unique elements and innovations. The outsize date window, which dominates the dial from its position at the pinnacle, is by far the most noticeable complication. However, hiding behind the mesmerising symmetry is a flyback chronograph, which is powered by the exquisitely finished L951.6 movement- one of Lange’s most prized developments, requiring 451 individual components to complete it! The watch is available, in several precious metals, for an undisclosed sum.
Oddyseus
Price: $28,800 USD; Case: Stainless Steel, 40.5mm; Water Resistance: 120m; Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire.
The A.Lange & Söhne Odysseus is part of that class of luxury sports watches on par with the likes of the Nautilus and the Royal Oak. However, it provides a breath of fresh air into that category with its high-horology pedigree that the other models can’t compete with. The layered dial provides a fantastic depth that brings out the rest of the features on the dial, such as the day and date displays, as well as the small-seconds dial. The brushed finish on the case and bracelet give it an understated and almost utilitarian feel, but the sapphire caseback blows that all away with the gorgeous automatic calibre that powers this steel masterpiece. The watch is available for $28,800.
Glashütte Original
Glashütte Original can trace its origins back 1845 in the same area as Lange. Their paths are much the same, and they were even for a period part of the same company- the Germano-Soviet state watchmakers. After 1990, the operation was renamed Glashütte Original in honour of its long-standing history. Acquired by the Swatch group in the early 2000s, the brand has been focused on producing wristwatches that reflect the unique characteristics of German watch design and manufacturing. Today, the brand is well known for their luxurious and understated timepieces that are loved by the enthusiast community.
Senator Excellence
Price: TBD; Case: Stainless Steel, 40mm; Water Resistance: 50m; Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire.
The Glashütte Original Excellence is a classic dress watch through and through. This luxury piece has barely strayed from tradition. Displaying the time elegantly is the piece’s only function as it sits on the wrist discreetly waiting to be noticed. The dial is a mix of modern minimalism and classic watch design with its roman numerals and thin indices. The blued hands clash with the sharp white dial and if observed closely enough will show you the brand’s logo- however, that’s for you to find. The watch is currently not for sale.
PanoMaticLunar
Price: TBD; Case: Red Gold, 40mm; Water Resistance: 50m; Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire.
The PanoMaticLunar is a one-of-a-kind watch. The unique dial configuration displays all the complications and functionalities with ease and simplicity. The gentle hues of the dial meld fantastically with the strong tones of the red gold case, creating an almost yin and yang opposition. The Moonphase is situated in a unique position at 2 o’clock, almost mimicking the Moon peeking round the Earth during orbit. The vibrant green strap ties the whole ensemble together. The watch is currently not for sale, but sells for around $20,000 USD on the Grey Market.
SeaQ
Price: $10,200 USD; Case: Stainless Steel, 39.5mm; Water Resistance: 200m; Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire.
The Glashütte Original SeaQ is perhaps one of the sportier models in the whole lineup. This luxury diver often, and controversially, competes with the likes of the Rolex Submariner and Yacht-Master when it comes to this sector of the market in the eyes of many industry experts. Sporting many of the same features, the SeaQ has a unique charm that combines technical superiority with gentle yet bold aesthetics. The watch sells for $10,200 USD. Check out our review of the Glashütte Original SeaQ here.
NOMOS Glashütte
Nomos, founded in Glashütte, after the fall of the Berlin Wall and right in the aftermath of the quartz crisis, was a bet that has definitely paid off. Producing only mechanical watches during that period, especially affordable ones would have sounded ridiculous. Yet today, Nomos are at the forefront of their market sector. They are one of the few manufactory brands who rely on no-one else to stay and produce high-quality watches for the masses. Their designs have evolved to match the times and will remain desirable and forward facing for years to come.
Club Campus
Price: $1,500; Case: Stainless Steel 36mm; Water Resistance: 100m; Movement: Manual Winding; Crystal: Sapphire.
The NOMOS Club Campus is possibly one of the most versatile watches available on the market and anyone could wear one. It really ticks all the boxes. If you’re looking for something a bit dressier, the Club Campus is your answer, if you’re looking for something that’s bright and vibrant, the Club Campus is your answer, and, if you’re looking for something with beautiful craftsmanship and attention to detail, then look no further. The compact package really can be worn pretty much anywhere and look good on any strap or wrist. And have we mentioned that it retails for as little as $1,500 USD. The Club Campus from Nomos has a variant for everyone.
Tangente
Price: $2,120; Case: Stainless Steel, 35mm; Water Resistance: 30m; Movement: Manual Winding; Crystal: Sapphire.
The Tangente is the modern dress watch in Nomos’ range. More progressive and angular than the Ludwig, the pure dress watch, the Tangente has that efficient and clinical German feel to it. The sleek Bauhaus numerals meld sleekly into the dial, letting the minimalist handset do the talking. The 35mm steel case makes it a great option for wearers with slimmer wrists or for ones looking for something a little more discreet. However, it does also come in a 38mm variant as well. The color scheme is understated to say the least, with white and dark blue dominating the range. The piece de resistance of the whole ensemble is definitely the beautifully finished movement that peeks through the sapphire caseback. The Tangente starts retailing at $1,900 USD.
Zurich Worldtime
Price: $6,100; Case: Stainless Steel, 39.9mm; Water Resistance: 30m; Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire.
The Zürich Worldtime is one of the most complicated pieces offered by Nomos, which says a lot about the brand’s philosophy. Retaining that effortlessly minimalist style, they have seamlessly integrated the world time complication into the piece with elegance and grace, which is not often a given. The functional nature of the piece is quintessentially German, the tool aspect is by far the most important. If this fantastic watch wasn’t already cool enough, it is powered by Nomos’ brilliant automatic caliber that is visible through the caseback- a true thing of beauty. It retails for $6,100 USD.
Laco
Founded as Lacher & Co. in 1925, the brand that is now known as Laco started off producing watches for the German military. The Pforzheim based factory was well known for its pilot’s timepieces, so much so that they, rather unfortunately, supplied the Luftwaffe with their watches for most of the Second World War and its build up. Sticking it out through the tough period that followed the conflict, Laco has built its brand back up and has barely strayed from its original purpose: brilliant pilot’s watches. They offer models in variety of sizes, specification, and prices, but they all have that special charm and purpose to them.
Pilot Watch Basic Augsburg
Price: $410; Case: Stainless Steel, 39mm; Water Resistance: 50m; Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire.
The Pilot Watch Basic Augsburg from Laco does exactly what it says on the tin. It’s an entry level vintage inspired pilot’s watch that is engrained with decades of expertise and craftsmanship. Definitely on the more affordable end of the spectrum when it comes to this type of watch, Laco haven’t made many sacrifices and have concentrated their know-how into this compact piece to ensure optimal functionality and wearability. Also available in a sunburst blue dial, the Pilot Watch Basic Augsburg from Laco is available for $410 USD and is definitely one for people just getting into their watch collecting journey.
Pilot Watch Original Kempten
Price: $1,130; Case: Stainless Steel, 39mm; Water Resistance: 50m; Movement: Manual Winding; Crystal: Sapphire.
Moving up the range, the Pilot Watch Original Kempten is the essence of vintage-inspired aviators watches. Every aspect of the watch has been improved compared to the previous model: the new ETA caliber provides superior reliability and accuracy, the dial has a better finish and more functional layout, the blued handset give it that heritage look and feel, and the case seems more robust. The manualy wound movement really takes the piece back to its heyday in the 1940s and ‘50s, where automatic watches were scarce. If you want to feel like a pilot in the golden days of aviation or are just looking for your companion for daily adventures, then look no further: it is available at retail for $1,130 USD.
Moritz Grossmann
Another brand that is historically tied to Glashütte is Moritz Grossmann. Named after an 1850s watchmaker from Dresden, the company became the German Watchmaking institute, which only closed its doors to students in 1992. The watchmaker’s business was restarted by Christine Hutter in 2008 as part of the German Clock Museum. Since then, the brand has been on journey to bring back Glashütte’s finest artisanal work. With its 2019 Global Roadshow, Moritz Grossmann has well and truly cemented itself as a top German watch manufacturer.
Central Seconds
Price: $36,000 USD; Case: Stainless Steel, 41mm; Water Resistance: 30m; Movement: Manual Winding; Crystal: Sapphire.
The Moritz Grossmann Central Seconds is unusual by the brands standards. Unlike the other models in the collection, it has, as the name might imply, a central seconds hand. Elegantly simple, the piece is a celebration of timekeeping as an art. Form is subordinated to function. The dial and handset integrate lume seamlessly into the design without being overbearing or detracting from the beauty of the piece. It is indeed Schönstes Deutsches Handwerk (beautiful German craftsmanship). It can be purchased for $36,000 USD.
Backpage
Price: $58,700 USD; Case: Platinum, 41mm; Water Resistance: m; Movement: Manual Winding; Crystal: Sapphire.
Another rather unique watch from Moritz Grossmann: the Backpage. Unusual by industry standards this time, the Backpage is one thing: flipped. At a first glance of both the ‘dial’ side and the ‘watchmakers’ side, you would be forgiven for thinking that everything is perfectly normal for a high horology watch. But that’s far from the case really. The movement has been completely inverted. The dial side components are facing downwards, whilst the gear train and escapement mechanisms are fully visible and exposed to our scrutiny. The remainder of the dial’s skeleton is a stunning hue of blue, that brings out the componentry even more. This fantastic watch also retails for $58,700 USD.
Lang 1943
Lang 1943 is a partnership between one of Germany’s greatest watchmakers, G-R Lang, and Georg Bartowiak, an entrepreneur. Lang was the one of the persevering spirits who kept the industry alive during and after the quartz crisis of the 1980s. His foresight was incredible and Bartowiak wanted to create a brand that would pay a lasting tribute to the artisan’s ingenuity and commitment. The watches that Lang 1943 produce are all based of new old stock that was purchased by Lang in the 1990s so that he could use them one day — that day is today.
Edition One
Price: $3,800; Case: Stainless Steel, 39mm; Water Resistance: 50m; Movement: Manual Winding; Crystal: Sapphire.
The Lang Edition One is a ridiculously good-looking luxury field watch. Encapsulating the essence of its type perfectly, the magic is really in the details. Starting with the beautiful fume dial that gives the piece a rich vintage feel, which is only amplified by the faux-tina on the lume and the syringe handset. Powered by an in-house caliber, this watch wears really comfortably on the wrist at only 8.4mm thick. Supplied with two extra-straps, Lang are really giving you the opportunity to tailor your optimal experience. It retails for $3,800 USD.
Retro Orange
Price: $3,800; Case: Stainless Steel, 39mm; Water Resistance: 50m; Movement: Manual Winding; Crystal: Sapphire.
Limited to just 25 pieces, the Retro Orange is discreetly bold. Whilst that idea is oxymoronic, that’s perhaps the only way to describe it properly. The vintage influence of the 1970’s and ‘80s is omnipresent. The faux-tina pops out against the discreet silver dial, which paired with the bright orange strap, is hard to miss. Powered by the same gorgeous movement as the previous piece, this watch pays tribute to the legacy of Lang’s founder. This also retails for $3,800.
Junghans
Junghans is one of the few major German watchmakers that are not based in Saxony. From the depths of the Schwarzwald, the company, founded by Erhard Junghans, started off making components for the regions famous clocks. In 2009, the brand took a new path and started afresh. Bringing in the expertise of famous designers as well as renowned horological engineers, Junghans has got one foot set firmly in the future with its progressive and instantly recognisable Bauhaus inspired designs.
Max Bill Automatic
Price: $1,350; Case: Stainless Steel, 38mm; Water Resistance: 10m; Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire.
The Junghans Max Bill is a tribute one of the Bauhaus movement’s most famous designers: Max Bill. Designed by the man himself, this piece could not embody the style any better. The numerals and dial markings are almost invisible from afar but are incredibly clear when you need to read the time. The watch feels pure and refined, and it’s easy to see why it’s so highly commended as a modern alternative to the dress watch. Retailing for $1,350 USD, it is relatively accessible for anyone who wants to own something of this significance.
Max Bill Chronoscope
Price: $2,400; Case: Stainless Steel, 40mm; Water Resistance: 30m; Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire.
The Max Bill Chronoscope is the aforementioned model’s more complex older brother. Now sporting a chronograph function, this piece overrides the busy and complex designs that we usually associate with timing complications. Instead, it’s incredibly clear and legible. There is no interference between the functions despite the obvious overlap- they work in perfect harmony. And of course, the Bauhaus spirit is still omnipresent in this compact chronograph. It is widely available for purchase at $2,400 USD.
Kudoke
The Kudoke brand is the watchmaker Stefan Kudoke’s brainchild. Years of watchmaking experience in some of the most prestigious and exclusive brand’s workshops has led to him refining his craft and his watchmaking philosophy. A firm believer in the importance of a watch’s movement, Stefan has centred all of his designs around this principle. The limited runs of his watches, that are almost pièces uniques, means that he can focus on producing a superior quality that stems from the personal investment and commitment to each one.
Kunstwerk Black Beauty
Price: Upon request; Case: Stainless Steel,41mm; Water Resistance: 10m; Movement: Manual Winding; Crystal: Sapphire.
The Kudoke Kunstwerk Black Beauty is definitely one of the most impressive luxury watches on this list. Fully skeletonized, the movement is the watch. Every single component has been hand finished or engraved to the highest standards, creating a living mass of metals that work together symbiotically. Losing oneself in the details of this watch is too easy, as there so many intricate touches that appear and disappear as you observe the piece from different angles. The polished Breguet hands standout against the backdrop of black and gold making it incredibly legible, which is never a given with this level of skeletonization. The watch is available only upon request and the price is undisclosed.
Handwerk Kudoke 2
Price: Upon Request; Case: Stainless Steel, 39mm; Water Resistance: 50m; Movement: Manual Winding; Crystal: Sapphire.
Nominated for the ‘Petite Aiguille’ prize at the 2019 Grand Prix Horloger de Genève (GPHG) the Kudoke 2 is part of the German Haute-Horlogerie tradition. Equipped with a unique dual-time display, this piece is an intricate and elegant beast. The rotating 24-hour time display at the 12 o’clock position is a thing of beauty. Hand engraved and plated with gold and rhodium it is definitely the first thing that catches your eye. Upon closer inspection the other details of the piece start coming out of the woodwork. The blued handset is unique to Kudoke and combines traditional watchmaking techniques with novel design inspiration. The movement, visible from behind the case, is a simple yet mesmerizing affair, prioritizing a few details to exhibit their craftsmanship with. The watch is available for purchase for an undisclosed sum.
Sinn Spezialuhren
Former WWII pilot and flying instructor Helmut Sinn founded the brand in 1961 in Frankfurt am Main in West Germany. His mission was to produce timekeeping devices and navigational instruments for pilots. Over a 30-year period, this business expanded into the production of watches generally, without compromising on their purpose. Sinn’s watches have been to the four corners of the globe, the depths of the oceans and even outer space. Sinn were the brand who proved that automatic winding worked in zero-gravity in 1985, and even travelled aboard the Columbia Shuttle. In recent years, Sinn has really upped its game and has won several design awards for their watches as well as ground-breaking technological innovations.
356 PILOT Classic AS E
Price: $2,600; Case: Stainless Steel, 38.5mm; Water Resistance: 100m; Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Acrylic or Sapphire.
The Sinn 356 Pilot Classic AS E is a quintessential pilot’s chronograph. Pairing the legibility of military timepieces with the functionality of the bi-compax timing keeping complication makes for a formidable companion. Robust and reliable is philosophy behind most of Sinn’s watches, and this is no different. Adding that vintage feel with the fauxtina on the fume dial and indices just shows how technicality can successfully be paired with aesthetics. The watch starts at retail for $2,600 USD with many options for customization, including the sapphire crystal for $550 USD.
The Space Chronograph 140 St S
Price: $4900; Case: Coated Steel, 44mm; Water Resistance: 100m; Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire.
The Sinn Space Chronograph 140 St S is a complex and capable tool designed to accompany high-performance pilots on their missions to the upper-atmosphere and beyond. Equipped with a 12-hour chronograph, a timing bezel, and a ¼ second scale, this watch has got the necessary tools for flight. The futuristic instrument look is unique to this model, looking nothing like the other Sinn timepieces but retaining their ethos. The bold looks ruggedness, capability and functionality will attract many watch enthusiasts and professionals to this watch. It retails from $4,900 USD.
Mühle Glashütte
If you were wondering where Mühle Glashütte was founded, you’d be surprised to learn that it was indeed in Glashütte. For over 150 years and 6 generation, the craftsman tradition has been passed down. Starting off as a precision tool manufacturer, it only became a clockmakers in the 1900s , after which business expanded massively. During the Soviet era, the company reverted to the precision measurements industry, merging with the Zeiss group. The watchmaking division was only incorporated into the Glashütte watchmaking group that included Glashütte Original, Lange, and many others in the 1980s. It was only in the 1990s, when the brand was handed down to the 4th Generation, where the watchmaking started in earnest. Producing maritime inspired watches for the likes of the German Search and Rescue. Completing their first in-house calibre in 2014, Mühle has been developing at a rate of knots and are definitely a brand to watch in the future.
Panova
Price: $1,199; Case: Stainless Steel, 40mm; Water Resistance: 100m; Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire.
The Mühle Glashütte Panova is the perfect ‘Go anywhere, do anything’ watch in this price range. Equipped with the SW-200 movement, the watch is reliable and accurate, whilst the colorful dial gives it a playful and versatile feel. Inspired by the sleek but robust world of sailing, the Panova is dynamic. The numerous options for customization, as well as the plethora of straps available, make it seriously attractive. It retails for $1,199 USD.
29er
Price: $1,999; Case: Stainless Steel, 42.4mm; Water Resistance: 100m; Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire.
The 29er, named after the renowned class of sailing ship, is a sportier and more rugged model. The nautical heritage is ever present, with a big clear dial and bold hands that you can’t misread. The 42mm case means that it will fit over sailing gear with ease, whilst also sneaking underneath a cuff at the office when needed. The sapphire caseback looks much like a ship’s porthole, continuing the consistent maritime theme throughout the piece. If this robust and accurate piece has caught your eye, it can be purchased for $1,999 USD.
MeisterSinger
Much like Mühle, MeisterSinger have been inspired by the precision instruments industry. It is the very inspiration for their unique designs that focus on a single time telling hand. However, the ancient tradition of single hand time telling, was actually inherited from the early clocks, which Münster, their base, is famous for. Founded by Mannfred Brassler over 20 years ago, MeisterSinger have had an extremely rapid development, mastering numerous complications such as the ‘Sonnerie au Passage’ and the moonphase.
Lunascope
Price: $4,649; Case: Stainless Steel, 40mm; Water Resistance: 50m; Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire.
The MeisterSinger Lunascope is a unique and extraordinary interpretation of the classic moonphase complication. Starting with the time display, which in itself is a novelty. There is a single hand indicating the time, in the same way that medieval clocks did. The monophase indicator is the star of this show. The gold and blue color scheme mimics the beautiful tapestry that is the night sky, making this much more than just a timekeeper, but a functional form of art. Retailing for $4,649 USD, it’s punching way above its weight class.
Vintago
Price: $1,895; Case: Stainless Steel, 38mm; Water Resistance: 50m; Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire.
The Vintago is the pure vintage timekeeping model in the MeisterSinger range. Keeping in line with the single hand time display, the watch is a minimalistic and characterful piece. The case is perfectly circular giving it a well-rounded look as it sits comfortably on the wrist. The sapphire caseback lets us peek into the beating of the watch which has been given a great finish, unusual at his price point. The Vintago from MeisterSinger is available for $1,895 USD.
Lang & Heyne
Lang & Heyne is a project, and now well cemented brand, that started between two watchmakers and friends over twenty years ago. At first it was but an idea and never a concrete business journey. Today, the brand has grown well beyond the two watches that they presented to the world at a trade fair in Basel in 2002. Since then, it has been a one-man mission and it has developed into a highly skilled and comprehensive manufacture that oversees every step of the watchmaking process. They believe firmly in accepting only the best.
Hektor
Price: $18,000 USD; Case: Stainless Steel, 40mm; Water Resistance: 50m; Movement: Manual Winding; Crystal: Sapphire.
Limited to just 99 pieces (33 in each color- Blue, Grey, and Green), the Lang & Heyne Hektor is a super-discreet and understated luxury sports watch designed for high horology collectors. From a first glance, the watch appears to be a relatively standard integrated bracelet piece. However, closer inspection reveals a myriad of tiny details that give the watch a special aura. Surprisingly, the watch also sports lume on the indices and hands-clearly functionality will never escape German design. This piece retails for $18,000 USD.
Friedrich August
Price: $36,000; Case: Platinum, 43.5mm; Water Resistance: 30m; Movement: Manual Winding; Crystal: Sapphire.
To finish of our guide to the German watchmaking industry’s best pieces we have the very fitting Friedrich August I from Lang & Heyne. Designed to emulate the feel of the very first pocket watches, it exudes an almost regal feel. Available exclusively in precious metals, the case is built exactly like its chain worn predecessors. The enamel dial is simply gorgeous, showcasing a small seconds and radiating the period charm. All in all, Lang & Heyne demonstrate another level of expertise and craftsmanship with this piece, which can be purchased for around $36,000 USD.