Introducing the Hublot 'Big Bang Master of Sapphire’ 20th Anniversary Set

When Hublot says it’s the “Master of Sapphire,” they’re not just talking about clear crystals or a couple novelty watches sprinkled into the catalog. They’ve been going full mad scientist with synthetic sapphire for almost a decade now: coloring it, shaping it, skeletonizing movements inside it, and pushing the limits of what’s even possible with a material that’s usually reserved for casebacks and bezels.

To celebrate 20 years of the Big Bang, Hublot’s gone and done it again. This time it’s with a set of five sapphire-cased watches, each in a different insane shade. Called the Big Bang “Master of Sapphire” Set, it’s equal parts technical showpiece and eye candy. Transparent, Water Blue, Deep Blue, Purple, and Neon Yellow SAXEM (sapphire meets aluminum oxide science fiction), all in one bespoke display box. Only five sets exist worldwide, and yeah, they’re over half a million dollars each. This definitely isn’t a subtle nod to the past. It’s a full-on celebration of Hublot’s very specific, very bold future.

The Basics

Case: 44 mm, Polished Sapphire or SAXEM in Transparent, Water Blue, Deep Blue, Purple, or Neon Yellow
Crystal: Sapphire with Anti-Reflective Treatment
Movement: HUB1201 Manual-Winding Skeleton Power Reserve Movement
Water Resistance: 50 meters
Strap Options: Color-matched transparent silicone with titanium deployant clasp
Price: $605,000 USD / 550,000 CHF / 629,000 EUR / 605,000 GBP
Availability: Limited to 5 complete box sets worldwide

The Juice

Each of the five watches in this set is built around Hublot’s MECA-10 movement, which is making its sapphire-case debut here. It’s manual-winding, totally openworked, and features a 10-day power reserve indicated by a gear rack system you won’t find on pretty much anything else in the industry. It’s architectural, it’s mechanical, and it’s perfect for a case where everything is on display. We already love what the MECA-10 stands for and could talk about it for days, but the real headline here is the material.

Let’s start with the Transparent Sapphire. It’s classic clear, which ironically makes it the most understated of the group. You can see every component, every screw, every gear—this one’s all about the movement.

Next is the Water Blue Sapphire, which feels like it was made for a yacht deck somewhere in St. Barts. It’s light, tropical, and surprisingly refined despite being basically a wrist-sized block of translucent blue.

Deep Blue Sapphire brings a darker, moodier vibe. It leans into a rich navy tone and makes the rhodium-plated balance wheel and black-plated bridges pop even harder.

Purple Sapphire might be the wildcard here. It’s not a pastel. It’s saturated, almost ultraviolet under light. The way it plays with the polished hands and transparent strap makes it a true attention grabber. If Prince had a watch drawer, this would be in it.

And finally, Neon Yellow SAXEM. This is the one that takes things from “crazy” to “certifiably unhinged.” SAXEM is basically space-grade sapphire mixed with rare earth elements, and the result is a fully transparent yellow case that glows in just the right way. It's not quite highlighter, not quite neon sign—but it’s loud and weird in the best possible way.

Each watch has its own matching translucent silicone strap and is secured with a titanium deployant clasp. They all measure 44mm across and 15.3mm thick, but thanks to the lightweight materials, they don’t wear nearly as chunky as the numbers suggest.

The set comes in a custom-built light-up display box with vertical LEDs and a frosted sliding panel, because if you’re going to drop over half a million on watches, you should at least get a futuristic case to store them in.

Final Thoughts

There are watch releases, and then there are declarations. The Big Bang “Master of Sapphire” Set is very much the latter. It’s Hublot doubling down on its reputation for fearless materials innovation, flipping the script on what a luxury watch should look like and backing it all up with an in-house movement that’s just as wild.

Sure, the price tag is enough to make your wallet flinch. But let’s be real: this set isn’t about practical luxury. It’s about going all in on a vision. Can I afford this set? Certainly not. Would I wear the Neon Yellow SAXEM to brunch? Honestly, yes. That is if I could get my hands on one of the five.

Find out more about this watch here.