20 Best Manual Wind Watches at All Price-Points
With the large availability of watches in quartz, automatic, and manual movements it might be hard to decipher which one is best for you. We’ve curated a list of hand-wound watches to help narrow down what’s out there and what makes each one unique. A hand-wound movement requires the wearer to pull the crown and wind the movement to give it power. It’s not for everyone, but it’s how watches of old used to operate. Although manual wound watches might not always have the precise accuracy of automatic watches, they will certainly outlive other movements. So, if you are looking for a piece that will always live in your collection or one you want to pass down as a family heirloom a hand wound movement might be more appealing to you. They’re designed to last a lifetime or longer with good care. They also allow watch manufacturers more flexible case constructions since the manual movement does not require a rotor. Read on to see our selection of our most loved manual wound timepieces at every price point.
Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical
Price: $575 USD; Case Size: 38mm; Water Resistance: 50m; Movement: Manual; Crystal: Sapphire.
The Hamilton Khaki Field is one of the most popular field watches on the market - A classic in style and functionality that deserves a place in every watch collection. The Hamilton Field watch is simplistic and truly embodies what field watches were made for—legible, clear dials for quick time telling. The dial displays 12 and 24-hour time. While it comes on a stainless steel bracelet or NATO Strap, Hamilton offers a variety of case materials/colors, dials and strap options. This piece always has a spot on many of our lists. Definitely a timeless manual-wind watch at a great pricepoint of $575 USD.
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch
Price: $6,600 USD; Case Size: 42mm; Water Resistance: 50m; Movement: Manual; Crystal: Hesalite.
Another easily recognizable classic timepiece on our list is the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch. Not only is this piece special in that it was the first watch on the moon (it’s been part of six moon landings) but it’s also just a sleek and cool sport watch overall. It is also one of the few chronographs we have on this list. Although it’s been updated over the years the changes haven’t always been overtly obvious to those who may not be too familiar with the Speedmaster Moonwatch collection. The most recent iteration of this piece is powered by the Calibre 3861 master chronometer certified movement. It has also been recreated in variety of different editions, but the classic Moonwatch will always have a place on our lists. This one retails for $6,600 USD.
Baltic Bicompax 002
Price: $583 USD; Case Size: 38mm; Water Resistance: 50m; Movement: Manual; Crystal: Hesalite.
The Baltic Bicompax 002 is a contemporary take on watches of the 1940s with it’s easily identifiable step stainless steel case construction playing into the vintage look of pieces from that era. This piece is a great choice for those looking for a dressier watch that has a vintage yet contemporary style. We love the blue multi textured dial and that it embodies the look of a compass. A simple piece that won’t break the bank. It’s available for $538 USD.
A. Lange & Sohne Lange 1
Price: $44,700 USD; Case Size: 38.5mm; Water Resistance: 30m; Movement: Manual; Crystal: Sapphire.
The Lange 1 is arguable to most recognizable of the A. Lange & Sohne timepieces. Introduced in 1994 it remains a staple of their current catalog. Its distinguishable dial is one of the facets we love about it. The large open dial with the time, power reserve indicator, and large date window all sit harmoniously together. The piece is a classic in all its colorway and metal options, but the one we are focused on for this list is the 18k pink gold with white dial. A beautiful dress watch and great addition to any enthusiast’s collection. It is available for $44,700 USD.
Nomos Tangente
Price: $2,180 USD; Case Size: 35mm; Water Resistance: 30m; Movement: Manual; Crystal: Sapphire.
The 35mm Nomos Tangente is a great unisex timepiece with its smaller size fitting more slender wrists. The midnight blue dial and gold tones make it a versatile option as well, whether you’re in a casual setting or a night out. Its Alpha Caliber movement is known for its precision and only needs to be wound every two days. The Tangente is Nomos Glashütte’s bestselling model, and we can see why. This hand-wound watch is priced at an affordable range at $2,180 USD.
Patek Philippe Grand Complication 5270P
Price: $218,820 USD; Case Size: 41mm; Water Resistance: 30m; Movement: Manual; Crystal: Sapphire.
The Patek Philippe Grand Complication 5270P is part of a collection that was launched in 2011 inspired through many generations of Patek Phillippe perpetual calendar chronographs. The style of this piece is a familiar one to Patek lovers but with its bold emerald dial, it adds a new vibrant look. The manual Caliber CH 29‑535 PS Q powers all functions of this piece from its day/month window, day/night indicator, to its moon phase, time and more. Elegant in all the ways a Patek is known for. This piece retails for $218,820 USD.
Grand Seiko Elegance Collection SBGW283
Price: $4,800 USD; Case Size: 37.3mm; Water Resistance: Splash Resistant; Movement: Manual; Crystal: Sapphire.
The Grand Seiko collections almost always capture the nature which surrounds the studio where their watches are produced. The Grand Seiko mechanical watches are produced in their studio located in the forests of Shizukuishi. Very visible from the studio is Mt. Iwate standing 2,000 meters high. We can see these details in the sleek crystal blue dial. At first glance the cool texture of the dial mimics ice capped mountains however this piece focuses on Kishun (the first days of summer). The blue color represents the skies over the mountains and forests as spring turns into summer. It’s available for $4,800 USD.
Timex Marlin
Price: $179 USD; Case Size: 34mm; Water Resistance:30m; Movement: Manual; Crystal: Acrylic.
The Timex Marlin is the most affordable watch on our list and one not to overlook. It’s a slim rendition of a vintage 1960s timepiece and has received a lot of traction in the enthusiast community. If you’re searching for an inexpensive vintage style watch this is a great choice. The dial is reminiscent of the Glashütte Original Sixties collection with its funky typography and clean dial. It’s best wound each day at the same time and ready to get you going on your day. You can find it on Amazon for $179 USD.
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Skeleton 8 Days
Price: $26,300 USD; Case Size: 40mm; Water Resistance: 30m; Movement: Manual; Crystal: Sapphire.
The Octo Finissimo’s unique style might not be a fit for everyone but there are many reasons this piece makes it on our list. The Octo Finissimo Skeleton not only has a fun (Genta inspired) octagonal shape, but the number eight is also significant in its impressive 8-day power reserve. Its coolest feature is how sleek and thin this piece is at just 5.95mm, made possible by its ultra-thin manufacture movement. We can’t forget the intricate skeleton dial in the titanium case and bracelet giving it a contemporary monochromatic look. It’s available for $26,300 USD.
Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921
Price: $40,400 USD; Case Size: 40mm; Water Resistance: Movement: Manual; Crystal: Sapphire.
The Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 is a playful yet sophisticated dress watch. It has an unconventional structure where the crown is in the top right corner of the case. The dial sits at a diagonal angle so that the 12 o’clock marker sits below the crown in the corner so that pilots or conductors can easily read the time without removing their hands from the controls. It might seem like it would be difficult to read the time without turning the wrist, but it works and looks cool. The piece is inspired from the original model which was launched in 1921 and was designed specifically for an American audience during the Roaring Twenties. You can add it to your collection for $40,400 USD.
Arnold & Son Time Pyramid
Price: $29,850 USD; Case Size: 44.6mm; Water Resistance: 30m; Movement: Manual; Crystal: Sapphire.
We felt it important to include the Arnold & Son Time Pyramid. This modern take on pyramid watches of the past has been constructed so that the sapphire crystal exposes the inner workings in a 360-degree view. The triangular movement can be seen from all sides so the wearer can admire it while it’s on or off their wrists. Arnold & Son have given lots of attention to the details of this piece while maintaining an unobstructed skeleton dial. We appreciate the stainless-steel model over the 18k red gold version as it gives a more contemporary feel and makes it a more everyday piece. It is priced at $29,850 USD.
Audemars Piguet CODE 11.59 Tourbillon Openworked
Price: Case Size: 41mm; Water Resistance: 30m; Movement: Manual; Crystal: Sapphire.
You might be used to seeing an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak on many of our lists since it’s a significant collection in the watch industry and will remain so. For this list we are exploring something different from Audemars Piguet - The CODE 11.59 Tourbillon Openworked. The blue ceramic case is enclosed by an 18k white gold bezel and lugs. The large bezel appears like it sits around the case rather than over it, creating a fun illusion, but once you look at the piece from the side the blue ceramic case is much more visible. The playfulness of this piece continues into the skeleton dial with a blue CVD inner bezel and webbed bridges. A tourbillon sits at 6 o’clock enhancing the visuals and function of this piece. We always love seeing what AP will create next. This watch is part of 50 limited edition piece collection with a price on request.
Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph
Price: $25,000 USD; Case Size: 49.4mm; Water Resistance: 30m; Movement: Manual; Crystal: Sapphire.
The rectangle reversible double-sided dials have become much of what Jaeger LeCoultre are known for. So, we’ve added the Tribute Chronograph to our list because yes, the design is cool, classic, and timeless. The classic side features a simple blue two-handed dial. When flipped around a more modern and technical dial comes out to play. This side features a skeleton dial displaying all of the technical workings of the manual movement. Like night and day this versatile piece will fit in any collection. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph is available for $25,000 USD.
Panerai Luminor 8 Giorni PAM00915
Price: $7,600 USD; Case Size: 44m; Water Resistance: 30m; Movement: Manual; Crystal: Sapphire.
Panerai always make a statement in their large contemporary tool watches (usually in a cushion case). The watches give nod to their vintage military history and inspirations but have adapted to a modern market. The minimal design works well with the piece as the open dial gives space for clear legibility with the large indices and numerals. The large crown, which makes it easier to wind, is protected by Panerai’s familiar crown guard. And with a watch this big its 8-day power reserve makes perfect sense. The piece is available for $7,600 USD.
Oris Big Crown Calibre 473
Price: $4,400 USD; Case Size: 38mm; Water Resistance: 50m; Movement: Manual; Crystal: Sapphire.
With the Big Crown Calibre 473 Oris introduces a new in-house movement into a classic Oris model. Oris set out on a mission of creating their own in-house movements over the last ten years and this one is their 10th one in ten years – A solid achievement for the brand. The movement has a 5-day power reserve, who’s indicator is displayed on the movement visible through the caseback so as not to take away from the minimal dial of the Big Crown model. We also love the colorway on this piece with its lighter blue dial and tan leather strap. Giving it something different than the usual classic colorways. The watch is priced at $4,400 USD.
IWC Portofino Hand-Wound Moon Phase IW516401
Price: $13,900 USD; Case Size: 45mm; Water Resistance: 30m; Movement: Manual; Crystal: Sapphire.
For the first time since the introduction of the Collection, IWC has added a moonphase model to the Portofino. The first Portofino made in 1984 also displayed a moon phase but was reincorporated in the updated models. We love the clean and simple look of this piece and IWC has done a good job with the moonphase not complicating the overall design of the dial. The white dial remains pretty minimal with the moon phase sitting at 12 o’clock, a small seconds dial at 6 o’clock, a small date window at 3 o’clock, and an 8-day power reserve indicator at 9 o’clock. Each balances the other and still leaves room to easily read the time. You’ll always stay on track with this piece, which retails for $13,900 USD.
F.P. Journe Chronometre Bleu
Price: Case Size: 39mm; Water Resistance: 30m; Movement: Manual; Crystal: Sapphire.
The F.P. Journe Chronometre Bleu is constructed in a tantalum case, blue dial, and blue leather strap. Tantalum is a rare dark grey metal with blue tones and hues and therefore compliments the overall color scheme of this piece making it feel almost completely blue. It’s quite a unique material that opens up an even more rare and beautiful color scheme. The clean two hand dial is fairly modern, but still can fit right in on dressier occasions. You can find a pop of color in the exposed 18k rose gold movement visible through the caseback. Although it is minimal it will certainly stand out on your wrist. The watch is quite rare, as only a few were made, but we've found them right around the $100,000 USD mark on the grey market
Weiss Standard Issue Field Watch
Price: $2,000 USD; Case Size: 38mm; Water Resistance: 100m; Movement: Manual; Crystal: Sapphire.
Another staple field watch that we love is the Weiss Standard Issue Field Watch. The American microbrand, founded by Cameron Weiss, was built over a handful of years from his love of outdoor adventures. Since 2013 they’ve gained a following and made a name in the American watch industry. Similar to the Hamilton Field it offers a clean precise dial and movement to always keep you ready for your next adventure. It fits comfortably on the wrist at 38mm, and the large crown makes it easy when it’s time to wind the movement. And if you don’t want to go for the classic black dial, they offer multiple options in colorways and straps. It is available for $2,000 USD.
Laco Pilot Watch Original Kempten
Price: $1,130 USD; Case Size: 39mm; Water Resistance: 50m; Movement: Manual; Crystal: Sapphire.
Laco is a German brand founded in 1925. They were one of five brands (IWC, Laco, Lange & Söhne, Stowa and Wempe) that designed and produced watches for the former German Ministry of Aviation in the 1940s. These watches were known as B-Uhr pieces, short for Beobachtungs-uhren which translates to “observation watches”. They were originally produced in a large size of 55mm, which would typically fall into a pocket watch size, but were meant for the wrist. The goal was to get a clear legible dial without any unnecessary obstructions like brand logos. Today the Laco Pilot Original Kempten still follows much of its historic beginning with a clean dial with no logos. Visible on the dial is the small hour track and a larger minute track displayed with Arabic numerals. Some newer touches are the much smaller and adaptable case size of 39mm (also available in larger sizes) and updated movement and construction. The Laco brand is one of the few that still recreates these vintage inspired pieces to look as they did in the past. The piece is available for $1,130 USD.
Cartier Tank Louis Cartier
Price: $13,000 USD; Case Size: 33.7mm; Water Resistance: 30m; Movement: Manual; Crystal: Mineral.
Last but not least is the Cartier Tank Louis Cartier. Another classic and a staple of the Cartier family who has found lots of success with their square and rectangle cases. The collection was created by Louis Cartier and takes inspiration from WWI tanks. The Tank Louis Cartier collection offers some of the most popular women’s watches as they’ve been worn by many royal and famous women past and present. But the watch is not just for women. Most models are unisex and can be worn on many wrists. This piece is available for $13,000 USD.
