Introducing the H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Passion Fruit and Studio Underd0g 03SERIES Passi0n Fruit
H.Moser & Cie. is one of the most the industry’s most highly sought-after independent manufacturers. Their origins can be traced back to the mid 1800s, when they produced pocket watches for the aristocrats across the grand European capitals (though their modern iteration of the brand came about much more recently). The brand’s designs are renowned for their simplicity and elegance, and their manufacture calibers boast some of the most highly revered complications. As a serious player in the Swiss independent sector, they carry a huge amount of weight in the industry.
Studio Underd0g is at the complete opposite end of the spectrum. This British brand was founded in 2021 by Richard Benc. Its rise to the top of the Microbrand industry has been momentous, with their diehard fanbase and fierce community support. Their whole ‘raison d’etre’ is making the serious world of watches a little more fun. Breaking rules is also one of their core values, and their recent partnerships with brands like Time+Tide have completely overturned the horology scene.
In the last couple of years, we’ve seen numerous partnerships between high-end brands and entry-level manufactures, like the Omega x Swatch and the Blancpain x Swatch collections. But this is a collaboration on another level. Joining two ends of the independent spectrum is absolutely fabulous, let’s see what the fruit of this partnership is all about…
The Basics:
Brand: H. Moser & Cie.
Model: Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Passion Fruit
Case Material: Stainless Steel
Case Size: 42mm
Water Resistance: 10m
Movement: HMC-800 Calibre Manufacture.
Movement Specs: Hours, Minutes, Perpetual Calendar, Big Date, Month Indicator via Central Hand, Small Seconds, Power Reserve, Leap Year Cycle.
Strap Options: Light brown waxy gaucho strap with a steel deployant clasp.
Brand: Studio Underd0g
Model: 03SERIES Passi0n Fruit
Case Material: 316L Stainless Steel
Case Size: 38.5mm
Water Resistance: 10m
Movement: Sellita SW510 M
Movement Specs: Hours, Minutes, Small Seconds, Mono-pusher chronograph, 60 second counter via central hand, 30 minute counter.
Strap Options: Black Calfskin Leather strap by The Strap Tailor with a steel pin and buckle.
The Juice:
We often talk about microbrands being the fruit of the founders passion, and in this case, these two watches are quite literally passion fruit. These two brands have collaborated to each create two watches, one from each brand. They share many similarities while retaining the hallmarks of each individual brand. Let’s get straight into the details.
Starting with the dial, which is obvisously the most striking and most important element of this collaborations. The colorway is vibrant and dynamic, much like Studio Underd0g’s famous Watermelon Chronograph. H.Moser has taken this fun concept of multicoloured dials to another level with their super high-end manufacturing processes. Made out of two separate dials to mimic the different textures of the fruit, the ‘Grand Feu’ inner dial replicates the smooth yet granular aspect of the fleshy inside. The contrast between polished and grainy on the Studio Underd0g show how a similar effect can be created using far less complex processes.
The movements powering this duo couldn’t be further apart. The Studio Underd0g boasts a brand new SW510 manually wound monopusher chronograph movement, which is completely new territory for the brand, who had previously used Seagull calibers in their chronographs. On the Endeavour, the HMC-800 Calibre Manufacture is a different beast. The perpetual calendar is one of the most pertigious complications, and most manufacturers produce a version that is only slightly different from the others. H. Moser & Cie. on the other hand have compeltely thrown out the playbook. The displays, and indicators are completely unconventional in their layout and design, with some indicators being found on the watchmakers side of the movement. This is particularly ingenious for the leap year cycle indicator as it is infrequently required, making the dial cleaner.
The Endeavour sports H.Moser’s disticntive soft and simple case lines that really ooze elegance. Funnily enough, the 03SERIES has a similar shape, although less refined, that really helps draw attention to the spectacular dial. At 42 and 38.5mm respectively, both watches find themselves in the incredibly versatile and comfortable range of sizes that fit almost everyone.
Both watches come on an incredibly simple but elegant leather strap, obviously from completely different levels of finishing. Studio Underd0g have partnered with The Strap Tailor to deliver a fabulous high-quality strap, really marking their ever growing increase in quality.
This dynamic duo encapsulates the spirit of two obscure sectors of the high-end watch industry, displaying both of their strengths and their similarities.
Limited to 100 pieces each
So how much will these watches cost?
The watches will sell for as a set only. Price is $64,900 USD.
If you want to find out more, information about these watches is available on the brands websites here and here.