Hands-On Review of the New Oris Aquis Calibre 400
As you know, at Wrist Enthusiast we are pretty big fans of Oris. The brand is compelling both in terms of value and design. And while we were always fans of the Oris’ diver, the Aquis, perhaps it wasn’t always the brand’s headline collection. We loved the ProPilot X for its modern yet classic take on the luxury sport watch. And if you are looking for something with a vintage aesthetic, the Big Crown Pointer Date definitely fits the bill.
So the whole team, and myself personally, were very excited when we learned that Oris would be revamping the Aquis line for Watches & Wonders 2024. I reviewed the new Aquis Upcycle 43.5 with Sellita-based movement, which I loved both in terms of aesthetics and affordability. Though as I said in that review, I always prefer an Oris timepiece with their in-house movement. Well, just after I reviewed the Aquis Upcycle, I was able to also get my hands on the Aquis Calibre 400 with sunray blue dial.
Now, in terms of design, the case of the Aquis Calibre 400 is the same as the Sellita-based models. The lugs are more exaggerated and sloped down, making it so the 43.5mm size is not too large on my 6.75 inch wrist. That’s quite the feat as I rarely wear watches over 42mm in diameter. Additionally, the case’s thickness has been slimmed down a bit, aiding to the watch’s wearability. I don’t say this often, but this almost-44mm watch could be a daily for me.
There have also been some slight changes to the dial. The font has been updated, there is less text on the dial and the applied indices have been slightly reworked. Not major changes, but changes that, along with the case redesign, make the new Aquis feel more luxurious and more comfortable (and attractive) on the wrist. But the blue dial is just stunning. The Sellita-based models have a darker, more Royal Blue, while the in-house Calibre 400 models have lighter, more unique blue. I am glad Oris differentiated the colors between the two models, rather than making them identical (except the movement).
While the new Aquis is offered on either a rubber strap or stainless steel bracelet, the watch I had in for review was on a rubber strap. The rubber is high quality, but you have to cut down the strap to size it to your wrist. This is not my favorite way to size a rubber watch strap, but it does provide for a more “tailored” fit to your wrist. Definitely not a dealbreaker by any means.
The rubber strap also comes with a quick release mechanism to the case, making it easier to switch it out to a steel bracelet, if you are so inclined. The Calibre 400 models also include a quick micro adjust mechanism in the clasp that also allows the wearer to easily adjust the watch to 3 different sizes while the watch is still on the wrist. I really like that brands are spending time and resources developing new ways to make the wearing experience better, and I feel that Oris has really been leading the way in this area.
The new Oris Aquis comes with either an Oris 733 Sellita-based movement with 38 hour power reserve or the Oris Calibre 400 in-house movement with 120-hour power reserve and COSC Certification. Beyond the movement being in-house and having a much longer power reserve, it is also has much better finishing and just looks more attractive through the display caseback. Yes, the aesthetics of the movement might not be the most important aspect of a movement, but if you have a display caseback, you want the movement to be finished well.
Overall, I am a big fan of all of the new Oris Aquis models. But I am particularly fond of the Calibre 400 offerings. Even though 43.5mm fits my wrist, I’d still probably opt for the 41.5mm version. But you can’t go wrong with either model.
You can pick up the Oris Aquis Calibre 400 for CHF 3,700 on stainless steel bracelet and CHF 3,600 on rubber strap.
