On the heals of Watches & Wonders in Geneva, Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo is gearing up for the Geneva Watch Auction XXI, scheduled for May 10th and 11th, 2025. The event will feature nearly 200 impressive timepieces, ranging from vintage rarities to modern masterpieces. Recently, I attended a special preview in New York, which provided an exclusive early look at some of the auction's most anticipated watches.

One standout was the Rolex Daytona Ref. 6264 "Paul Newman Lemon" in 18k yellow gold, circa 1970. This fresh-to-market piece is particularly notable for its vibrant "Lemon" dial, a rarity among Rolex Daytonas. Over time, its original yellow dial has developed subtle, appealing tropical hues, complemented by a distinctive matte finish and Art Deco numerals. Estimated between CHF 650,000 and CHF 1,300,000, it's expected to attract significant attention from collectors.

The preview also featured the F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance in platinum, a well-known model among contemporary watch enthusiasts. The watch is famous for its innovative dual escapements, which improve timekeeping by synchronizing their movements. Up close, the craftsmanship and attention to detail were remarkable, reinforcing F.P. Journe’s reputation as a modern innovator in watchmaking.

Vintage enthusiasts will appreciate the Rolex Triple Calendar Ref. 8171, commonly known as "Padellone." Produced between 1949 and 1952, this pink gold version was particularly impressive due to its excellent condition. Its large 38mm case, moonphase complication, and triple calendar functionality distinguish it from Rolex’s more typical sports models. The dial has aged attractively, providing a pleasing vintage charm. It carries a pre-auction estimate between CHF 350,000 and CHF 700,000.

The Philippe Dufour Simplicity 34 was another memorable watch from the preview. Known for its understated elegance and exceptional finishing, the Simplicity captures the essence of traditional Swiss watchmaking. Each detail, from the polished surfaces to the delicate hands, showcases Philippe Dufour’s renowned craftsmanship and precision. So few Philippe Dufour pieces have been produced, adding to its appeal. It is estimated to sell for between CHF 250,000 and 500,000

Patek Philippe was also well-represented with two exceptional modern watches: the Ref. 5074P-001, known for its perpetual calendar minute repeater housed in platinum, and the Ref. 5104P-001, admired for its beautifully skeletonized perpetual calendar mechanism (plus it’s beuatiful engraved case). Both watches reflect what Patek Philippe does best (complications), and clearly showcase why the brand continues to be one of the most important brands in the horological world (if not the most important).

Additionally, collectors interested in independent watchmaking will find the upcoming auction intriguing. For instance, Konstantin Chaykin’s ThinKing prototype watch, notably recognized as the world’s thinnest wristwatch at just 1.65mm, highlights the innovative edge and creativity of modern independent watchmakers. This ultra-slim timepiece combines cutting-edge technology with meticulous craftsmanship, plus quirky dial (a signature for Chaykin) really showcase what independent brands are capable of.

Further complementing the diversity of the collection, a unique Universal Genève Polerouter in 18k white gold will also be offered. Marking the revival of Universal Genève under new ownership, this model pays tribute to the historic Polerouter of the 1950s, offering collectors a modern interpretation of a classic design. Notably, proceeds from this watch will support training initiatives at CFP Arts Geneva, helping to preserve traditional watchmaking skills for future generations.

Having previewed these remarkable watches personally, I am looking forward even more to the Geneva auction. Phillips is marking their tenth anniversary by curating an impressive selection of pieces, each telling its own unique story. Ahead of the auction, these watches will be showcased internationally with stops in cities like London, Hong Kong, Dubai, Singapore, and Riyadh, further building excitement among watch collectors worldwide. This year's Geneva Watch Auction XXI promises to deliver some memorable moments for everyone passionate about horology.

Learn more about the the Geneva Watch Auction at Phillips’ website.