Introducing the Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Retrograde Moon Phase 270th Anniversary

###

Vacheron Constantin is marking 270 years of continuous watchmaking, an achievement that very few can even pretend to match. Instead of shouting it from the rooftops with over-the-top releases, Vacheron did what it does best: subtle evolution. Among the new pieces unveiled to celebrate the anniversary, one that immediately caught my eye was the Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date, a watch that might just be the quiet standout of the entire collection.

Vacheron’s Patrimony line has always been about restraint. Inspired by the minimalist elegance of the 1950s, it’s the antithesis of the modern hyper-complication. But here, they’ve introduced something a little more expressive: a retrograde date complication and a precision moon phase. And they’ve done it without disturbing the serene balance that defines the collection. This is how you do a celebratory piece with personality but no ego.

The Basics

Case: 42.5mm x 9.7mm, available in 18K white gold or 18K 5N pink gold

Crystal: Sapphire crystal

Movement: Vacheron Constantin Calibre 2460 R31L/270, self-winding, 40-hour power reserve

Water Resistance: 30 meters (3 bar)

Strap Options: Dark green alligator leather strap with tone-on-tone stitching, Maltese cross pin buckle

Price: Upon request

Availability: Limited to 270 pieces per metal, individually numbered

The Juice

There’s a lot to unpack here, and it starts with the dial.

The silver-toned dial is classic Patrimony: clean, slightly domed, and understated, but now with a twist: the special anniversary pattern, which strikes a contrast with the sweep of the complication. The retrograde date arcs across the top half of the dial, executed with a blued hand that snaps back at the end of the month. It’s one of those Vacheron signatures that doesn’t get nearly enough love outside enthusiast circles. There’s something inherently satisfying about a retrograde display, especially one this smooth and symmetrical.

At 6 o’clock, you get the moon phase complication, presented in a recessed aperture with a beautifully rendered moon disc. It’s not just a pretty face, either: this is a precision moon phase that only needs correcting once every 122 years. Most of us won’t live long enough to worry about that, but it’s nice to know the watch will keep the moon in check well after we’re gone.

Together, these two complications could easily make the dial feel crowded, but that’s not the case here. The layout is balanced and clean, and there’s enough breathing room to preserve that classic Patrimony calmness. The Maltese Cross-inspired 270th anniversary motif is subtly engraved into the dial, adding depth without disrupting legibility. It’s the kind of detail you don’t notice until the light hits just right—and then you can’t unsee it.

The movement is Vacheron’s in-house Calibre 2460 R31L/270. It’s visible through the sapphire caseback and finished with the “côte unique” motif—an elegant, flowing decoration that the brand revived from its archives. The openworked 22K gold rotor, which also features the Maltese Cross, adds just enough visual intrigue to reward a flip of the wrist. Power reserve is 40 hours, which is not record-breaking, but entirely adequate for a piece that’s meant to be worn, not babied in a safe.

The case is larger than some might expect from a dress watch at 42.5mm, but the slim bezel and curved lugs help it wear a bit smaller than the numbers suggest. The dark green strap is a bold but welcome choice—it plays nicely off the silver dial and adds just a whisper of modernity to the otherwise vintage-adjacent aesthetic.

Final Thoughts

This watch really surprised me: the retrograde date and moon phase aren’t just there for the sake of complication- they’re integrated into the design in a way that feels natural. What I appreciate most is the restraint and focus on perfecting what they already do well. Vacheron could have added a dozen more anniversary flourishes, but they didn’t. Instead, they gave us a dial motif you have to look for, a caseback finish that’s genuinely special if you know what you’re looking at, and a movement that feels worthy of the occasion. This is a watch that won’t scream from across the room, but it will absolutely start a conversation across the dinner table. It’s smart, sophisticated, and quietly complicated. In other words: it’s very Vacheron.

Find out more about this watch here.

Previous
Previous

Introducing the Grand Seiko Spring Drive U.F.A. – Now With a Micro-Adjustment

Next
Next

Introducing the H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Chronograph Automatic ‘Frozen’