The 16 Best Vintage Women’s Watches According to JJ Owens of The Daily Grail

At Wrist Enthusiast, we always aim to provide our readers with the best watch buying advice available. So when JJ Owens, founder of the pop culture watch website The Daily Grail and friend of Wrist Enthusiast, expressed interest in contributing, it made sense to take advantage of her deep knowledge and expertise in the world of women's watches, specifically vintage watches. This watch buying guide will provide readers with JJ’s personal advice on the best vintage womens watches currently on the market. If you would like to see more from JJ, you can find her at @jessicajjo on Instagram or check out her website, The Daily Grail, here.

With the resurgence of vintage, the conversation of vintage watches has become more and more mainstream, thus has the demand. With the market overflowing in vintage watches, finding the perfect piece is far easier said than done. The argument of vintage, in terms of timeframe, varies from art to wine to fashion, but for the sake of ease, the fashion rule has been applied: in order to reach icon status on this list, the watch has to be at least twenty years old.

Bulgari Tubogas Serpenti in Stainless Steel

If you’ve seen Elizabeth Taylor’s Cleopatra, you are well versed in the beauty of the Serpenti. Having been a fixture in the italian jeweler since 1948, Bulgari has without a doubt been cemented by the Serpenti collection. When looking at vintage Serpentis there are endless options in shapes and metals, but in terms of wearability, I suggest steel as not only does it add a level of informality, the juxtaposition between the intricacy of design and the metal (typically used for sports watches), makes the ideal day to night timepiece.

Rolex GMT-Master Ref. 1675

Coined the “Pepsi Bezel”, this Rolex is as iconic as the eponymous drink. Adding a playful element to punctuality, the red and blue bezel adds such a signature pop while maintaining an ageless appeal. For those interested in a sportier vintage piece, it is hard to compete with the ref. 1675. For the Bond fanatics, a different kind of Pepsi Bezel, the ref. 6542, was famously worn by Honor Blackman in Goldfinger, proving what was classically thought of as a men’s watch is no longer just for the boys.

Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 4700

Though this is the mini version of Patek’s renowned wristwatch, there is nothing miniature about any Nautilus, because it's still a Nautilus. Though some may raise their nose to the quartz mechanism on a Patek, this model still has all its merits. Being made with two different bracelet varieties, this reference is the only Nautilus to ever feature two different metal bracelet options, one being the classic and another being a larger central link for a more formal look. Bonus points if your preferred model features the signature “garage door” dial!

Cartier Tank

At this point, it's almost obligatory to add a Cartier Tank to any list of the top vintage watches because it is truly that exceptional. Released in 1919, the Tank has been a staple in the jewelry boxes of the Kennedys, Steve McQueen, Muhammad Ali, and Andy Warhol…to name a few. Throughout the one-hundred plus years, the brand and watch have both gone through cosmetic tweaks, but the legendary rectangular watch is guaranteed to remain a staple for the next hundred as well.

Rolex Datejust 26mm in Yellow Gold

Arguably, if I could own one watch it would be a 26 mm gold Datejust featuring a champagne dial on a jubilee band. Why? It is one of the most wearable watches. The champagne dial is elegant yet still versatile and due to the watch being on the smaller end, despite it being gold, it is genuinely wearable on a day to day basis. The Datejust was first released in 1945 and has been one of the brand’s top selling watches for obvious reasons; it is a true classic.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso

When introducing this watch to those newly initiated in the horological happenings, I always say, “this is for the person who wants something more unique than a (Cartier) Tank”. A watch made for ladies who lunch and gallery hop, the Reverso is the epitome of “if you know you know”. The double-sided or “flippable” option of the face, allows for a custom engraving or simply, keeping the timepiece side a secret until you must know when it's time to leave.

Rolex Day-Date Ref. 1803

Without a doubt, one of the most recognized watches in history, the Rolex Day-Date or “President” is an icon in itself. Though the modern line offers both a 36 and 40mm option, the vintage references hold true to the piece's original size at 36mm. One may ask, is a Day-Date too much for everyday? Having had this question myself prior to purchasing, I must say, it's all about how you wear it and rest assured, this is one great watch to wear. 

Jacob and Co Five Time Zone

Having just made the cutoff for vintage, in terms of iconic early 2000s watches, the Five Time Zone is second to none. From Gisele to Naomi to Nicole Richie, there really was no worthy wrist this 40mm watch was not worn on. Released in 2002, the Five Time Zone speaks to the newest era of vintage and the latest era of millennials, those same millennials who are solely responsible for bringing back the trends of twenty years past and making vintage what it is today.

Audemars Piguet Dress Watch 

After seeing Carolina Bucci (yes, the same Carolina Bucci who collaborated with Audemars Piguet multiple times) wearing a vintage Audemars Piguet 35mm dress watch, I became fixated on the simplistic elegance of the design. AP is automatically associated with the Royal Oak, but when looking at its vintage archives, there is so much more and the dress watches from the 60s and 70s are a prime example of the brand’s depth. There’s also something incredibly irreverent about choosing a piece like this from the watchmaker, as opposed to a Royal Oak… Which at the end of the day, choosing a watch that speaks to and about you is what it's all about. 

TAG Heuer Formula 1

If you’ve gotten this far down the list, you would surmise, I am no quartz snob. Outside of the watch world, many people prefer that mechanism and not to mention, the market proves that. Ironically being launched right after the Quartz Crisis ended, the TAG Heuer Formula 1 is everything a quartz watch should be and then some. Marking all the hallmarks of durability and versatility, whilst still having all the color configurations one can dream, the Formula 1 is not best kept in the 80s.

Chopard St. Moritz

What is commonly known as the inspiration for the Alpine Eagle, Chopard’s modern iteration of the 80s piece has quickly earned a top spot on favored novelty lists amongst collectors. But let’s focus on the vintage version: with my favorites featuring an assortment of diamonds and sapphires, the St. Mortiz was the rainbow watch before rainbow watches were a thing. For more subtle varieties, the piece can be found in steel and two-tone.

Piaget Polo

The Cartier Santos was Gordon Gekko’s watch of choice in Scorcesse’s Wall Street, but today our focus is on the other 80s power watch: the Piaget Polo. Not to be confused with the 2016 models, sporting a completely different design, but the 18k gold OGs from 1979. From streaks of diamonds to Lapis and Tiger’s Eye dials, almost 50 years later, the collection still carries its weight and gives another less-known option in the vintage gold market.

Cartier Baignoire 

An alternative to the incredibly popular Panthère, the Baignoire is quickly regaining adoration, especially seeing that the brand released multiple models at Watches and Wonders this past year. The watch gets its name due the shape, meaning bathtub in french. Though taking a dip with this timepiece isn’t recommended, the demure design and thin leather strap are proportioned to perfection, thus making this watch one of the most flattering vintage pieces around.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Ref. 6008 in Two-Tone

With mini gold Royal Oaks making a comeback thanks to the likes of Hailey Bieber and Material Girl, a lesser known and slightly larger model is that of the 30mm ref. 6008 in two-tone. A helpful tip regarding the Royal Oak, is that due to the thicker case, the watch does wear bigger so if you are wary of smaller watches, be advised the Royal Oak might be that perfect middle ground as it appears larger but still maintains all the comfort of a smaller piece.

Omega Constellation

When looking at a red carpet this past awards season, you’d be hard pressed to not see multiple Omegas both modern and vintage. Most associated with the Omega Seamaster and the Speedmaster, the brand’s ladies pieces never get enough recognition, one of those being the Constellation. Designed by Carol Didisheim in the early 80s, this variant of the Constellation with its mother of pearl dial and its distinctive geometric elements still manages to fly under the radar, especially in the smaller sizes.

Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra Watch

With Van Cleef’s Alhambra collection being seen more and more courtside than tableside these days, it is no surprise that the jeweler’s most recognizable mother of pearl clover has far more to offer than just bracelets. Though the Alhambra was first introduced in 1968, the brand has only recently started dabbling in watches of that shape. From the classic MOP to the incredible lapis, this watch is so much more than just a piece of jewelry.