Best Watch Bracelets Every Collector Should Know for 2023
At Wrist Enthusiast, we have spent a lot of time publishing watch buying guides in an effort to provide our readers with buying inspiration of watches in many different categories and at many different price-points. One of the areas we haven’t found an exhaustive guide discussing is watch bracelets. Metal watch bands come in all different types and styles, offering a dizzying array of options. We thought we would go through our favorite watch bracelets, describing a little about them and then offering our favorite watches that use each bracelet. Let’s get into it.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Bracelet
Perhaps our favorite bracelet of all time might also be the most distinctive watch bracelet currently on the market. The Royal Oak bracelet was designed by Gerald Genta in 1972 when he famously designed the original Royal Oak in one night. Every link of the integrated bracelet is a single piece of metal with two smaller rectangle connectors (curved on top and bottom) connecting each link. The bracelet tapers nicely ensuring that it isn’t too bulky in the wrist. The brushed links have polished bevel edges, a finishing that adds a luxury feel to the watch. We’d expect nothing less from Audemars Piguet. While the Royal Oak and bracelet was originally offered only in stainless steel, models of the Royal Oak on bracelet are now also offered in gold, steel, platinum, and even titanium.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin 16202
If you are looking for the current production Royal Oak most faithful to the original released in 1972, bracelet and all, the Ref. 16202 is the watch for you. Released in 2022 for the 50th anniversary of the Royal Oak collection, the 16202 is the natural evolution from the previous model, the 15202. The watch is very thin at 8.1 mm and has a 39 mm case. The watch upgrades the date-set mechanism from the previous model, allowing the wearer to quick-set the date. Of course the Royal Oak comes on its beautiful bracelet. Overall, the Royal Oak 16202 is a must for any watch collector. It retails for $33,200 USD.
Patek Philippe Nautilus Bracelet
Besides the Royal Oak bracelet, perhaps the second-most iconic (non-Rolex) bracelet is the Patek Philippe Nautilus bracelet. Like the Royal Oak, the Nautilus was designed in the 1970s by Gerald Genta (1976 to be exact). Similar to the Royal Oak bracelet, the integrated Nautilus bracelet features a single brushed link band. The H-shaped links are attached, however, by a single horizontal and rounded rectangular polished connector. The bracelet tapers and all links have polished beveled edges. The similarities between the Royal Oak and Nautilus bracelets are evident, which makes sense given the fact that they were both designed in the 1970s by the same designer.
Patek Philippe Nautilus 5811
When Patek Philippe discontinued the stainless steel 5711 in 2022 the watch world wondered what, if anything, would replace the iconic model. Some of us speculated that Patek Philippe would release a titanium Nautilus. Ultimately, that did not happen. Instead, the venerable brand released the 5811, which looks a whole lot like the 5711. However, it is 1mm bigger at 41mm and is made of white gold instead of steel. Gone are the days of the stainless steel three-handed Nautilus. At least for now. The 5811 does give us everything we love about the original Nautilus - The octagonal porthole bezel and dial and winged case. And yes, the bracelet remains the same. However, with the switch from stainless steel to white gold comes a hefty increase on the retail price. The Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5811 retails for $69,790 USD. But hey, both the stainless steel 5711 and the white gold 5811 will cost you well over $100,000 USD on the secondary market.
Rolex Oyster Bracelet
The Rolex Oyster bracelet is probably the most recognizable bracelet on this list. The bracelet was first introduced in 1948. Originally, the Oyster bracelet was made with rivets, followed by a sturdier folded link design, and finally the solid links the Oyster bracelet is fitted with today. The Oyster bracelet is pretty simple, it has two outer links and a central link that connects the two outer links above and below it. While the two outside links are always brushed, different Rolex models will feature either a polished or brushed middle link. So what watches are available on the Rolex Oyster bracelet? All Rolex Professional models that are available on bracelet are offered on the Oyster bracelet (though some are also offered on Jubilee). Additionally, the Rolex Sky-Dweller, Day-Date and Datejust are also offered Oyster bracelets. The Oyster bracelet adds a nice combination of high quality and durability for any wearer (and the Rolex clasp is second to none).
Rolex Daytona 116500 on Oyster Bracelet
If you are looking for a steel Rolex at retail price, you’ll probably have the hardest time finding the Rolex Daytona Ref. 16500 with white dial. The watch features a 40mm case with ceramic bezel and chronograph functionality. The Daytona is actually Rolex’s only chronograph. The Daytona is also one of Rolex’s watches that is only offered on an Oyster bracelet. The Daytona Oyster bracelet features two outer brushed links with a center polished link. This adds some nice contrast and adds some luxury to a sports watch. If you can get it at retail, the Rolex Daytona 116500 retails for $14,800 USD.
Rolex Submariner
Interestingly, the Oyster bracelet is the only bracelet currently made by Rolex that comes in different finishings. While the Oyster bracelet on the Daytona, GMT-Master II and Sky-Dweller and Yacht-Master and Yacht-Master II come with brushed outer links and polished inner links, the Oyster bracelet on the Submariner, Oyster Perpetual, Sea-Dweller an Deepsea Sea-Dweller are completely brushed. As Rolex’s dive collection is a true tool watch, it makes sense that it would go for the less ornate brushed finishing (though the precious metal versions have polished inner links). This also makes the watch perfect for everyday wear as it is less prone to visible scratches. The stainless steel Rolex Submariner Ref. 126610LN retails for $10,250 USD.
Rolex President Bracelet
The Rolex Presidential bracelet is different from all the other Rolex bracelets for one simple reason, it is only offered on Day-Date models and only in precious metals, gold or platinum. While you can get the Oyster and Jubilee bracelets in both steel and precious metals, the President is much more limited in models and material. First introduced in 1956 along with the inaugural edition of the Day-Date the President bracelet features 3 circular links, outer links brushed and inner link polished. The President bracelet’s outer circular links are pretty much identical to those on the jubilee, but instead of 3 links in the middle, there is just one long circular link. The President bracelet has a refined and upscale look without being as ornate as the Rolex’s Jubilee bracelet.
Rolex Day-Date 40 Everose Olive Green
While you can get the Day-Date in classic yellow gold, white gold, or platinum, one of our favorites in the collection in the Day-Date 40 in rose gold with olive green dial Ref. 228235-0025. The rose gold mixed with the green sunray dial pair extremely well, and the presidential bracelet adds a little bit of class. You can’t go wrong when picking a Day-Date, especially as dress watches go, but we think the Everose and olive green combination is just a step up above the rest. The Rolex Day-Date 40 Everose Olive Green retails for $41,500 USD.
Jubilee Bracelet
The Jubilee bracelet was introduced by Rolex in 1945. As name suggests, the bracelet was introduced to celebrate Rolex’s 40th anniversary jubilee. Unlike the 3 link design of the Oyster and President bracelet, the Jubilee Rolex bracelet features 5 links with the two larger outer links and 3 smaller inner links that connect the bracelet. All links of the Jubilee bracelet feature a more rounded design than the Oyster bracelet, with the inner links polished and outer links brushed. The Rolex Jubilee bracelet has a more dressy look than the Oyster, but is offered on a wide range of models, including the Datejust, Sky-Dweller and GMT-Master II. It is also offered in steel, precious metals, and two-tone (that’s a lot of versatility). While the Jubilee bracelet was originally designed and manufactured by Rolex, other brands, including Seiko, now offer models on a jubilee bracelet.
Rolex GMT-Master II Pepsi on Jubilee Bracelet
In our opinion the only way to buy a Rolex Pepsi is on jubilee bracelet. Rolex’s GMT has a long history with the jubilee bracelet. The Rolex GMT-Master Ref. 1675, first released in 1959 was the first Rolex model offered on two different bracelets, Oyster and Jubilee. The GMT-Master II Pepsi Ref. 126710BLRO continues this tradition with all the modern refinements Rolex has made to the jubilee bracelet. While we typically see the Jubilee on the non-sport models like the Datejust and Sky-Dweller, the bracelet looks at home on the GMT-Master II as well. The Rolex GMT-Master II Pepsi retails for $10,900 USD.
Seiko 5 Sports GMT SSK003
Fortunately, if you are looking for a something more affordable than a Rolex with a jubilee bracelet, there are options. Since Rolex introduced the 5-link bracelet, other brands have started offering models with a similar bracelet. One of our favorites is the Seiko 5 Sports GMT Ref. SSK003. It is clear that Seiko has taken a lot of design cues from Rolex in the production of these watches, but we aren’t opposed. The SSK003 offers a jubilee bracelet with dual color bezel, in this case black and blue, very reminiscent of the GMT-Master II Batman (or some call the watch the Batgirl when it is offered on jubilee). The big difference between the Seiko 5 Sports GMT and the Rolex GMT-Master II? The price. The Seiko retails for an affordable $475 USD.
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Bracelet
The the Vacheron Constantin Overseas may have been launched in 1996, two decades after the releases of the Royal Oak and Nautilus, but it has come to be considered with the same esteem as those two Genta-designed heavyweights. However, the bracelet as we know it today came to be in 2004. The most interesting aspect of the Ovserseas bracelet is the fact that there are only single links connected to each other throughout the entire bracelet. The links are connected in the middle by a rectangle piece that flares out into the link above it. While the bracelet is mostly brushed, Vacheron Constantin plays with angles and polishes inner beveled edges making for links that almost look like wings. We really think the Overseas bracelet is unlike anything else on the market.
Vacheron Constantin Overseas
While the Vacheron Constantine Overseas might not have the history of the Royal Oak and the Nautilus, collectors still consider the model up their with the two Genta-designed classics. And just like our favorite Royal Oak and Nautilus are the stainless steel models closest to the original (and in both cases with blue dials), the same goes for our favorite Overseas. The stainless steel Overseas Ref. 4500V/110A-B128 features a 41mm case and stunning blue dial. The notched bezel, also unique to the Overseas, pairs well with the unique bracelet. However, like the Royal Oak and Nautilus, the steel Overseas is very difficult to get at retail. The retail price for the piece is $22,500 USD.
Beads of Rice Bracelet
Rice bead bracelets came around in the 1960s surely give off that vintage vibe. Originally designed by Jacoby Bender, the bracelet features multiple small links, not all that different from the interior jubilee links, that resemble small beads of rice. Sometimes there are large links on the outside, but it all depends on the watch. Many vintage Patek Philippe chronographs were known to use bead of rice bracelets as well as late 1960s Omega Seamasters. The bracelet has seemed to come back into favor, and we often see it new pieces, including dive watches that are going for that vintage, 1960s era style.
Doxa Sub 300
When it comes to beads-of-rice bracelets, there are a ton of options. But seeing that the rice bead bracelet is originally a 60s era style, we wanted to showcase a watch with a lot of 1960s heritage. The Doxa Sub 300 fits that criteria. While DOXA was founded in 1889, the brand came to fame in 1957 with the release of the SUB, developed in collaboration with diving-legend Jacques-Yves Cousteau. The Sub 300 is the natural evolution of the original Sub (great for scuba diving) and shares many design elements of the original, including case shape and bezel design. The Doxa Sub 300T, including the Sharkhunter pictured, retails for $1,890 USD on stainless steel bracelet.
Tag Heuer Autavia Heritage
The second watch on our list that employs a rice bead bracelet is another retro-modern piece, but this time a chronograph. The Tag Heuer Autavia Heritage (like the original, however, this piece is just branded as the Heuer Autavia) features a black dial with white subdials and beads of rice bracelet. This pilot’s watch runs on Tag Heuer’s in-house caliber HEUER02 automatic movement and features 80-hours of power reserve. This piece is a faithful (and almost exact to be honest) recreation of the Heuer Autavia Chronograph Ref. 2446 of the 60s and 70s but with modern upgrades and a much cheaper price-point. Yes, the vintage Heuer Autavia Ref. 2446 can sell for $11,000 USD to $18,000 USD due to collectability. The Tag Heuer Autavia Heritage, however, retails for $5,950 USD on steel bracelet.
Steel Mesh Milanese Bracelet
The mesh watch bracelet, or Milanese watch strap, was invented in the 1920s by German watch straps manufacturers Staib and Vollmer. However, mesh bracelets gained popularity in the 1960s when the Omega released Ploprof with Milanese bracelet. Since then, brands looking for a vintage bracelet, have often used a Milanese mesh bracelet. It has the benefit of not being fitted to the case, so every model need not have it’s own fitted end links.
Breitling Superocean Heritage II B20
If you are looking for a watch that comes on a steel mesh bracelet, Breitling’s Superocean Heritage II B20. Though the watch comes in 46mm, we prefer the smaller (though not small by any means) 42mm model. The Superocean Heritage is has a very clean look, foregoing numbers on the dial or bezel in favor of stick markers. The sunray blue dial is match with matching blue unidirectional polished ceramic bezel. While offered on a simulated mesh rubber bracelet (which we also love), the steel Milanese bracelet gives this Heritage Breitling even more vintage appeal. The Breitling Superocean Heritage II B20 retails for $5,250 but is available for considerably less, $4,348 USD, on Amazon.
Longines Legend Diver
Looking for something a little less expensive, but with a similar mesh bracelet. We are big fans of the Longines Legend Diver. The Legend Diver is another dive watch, but instead of a dive bezel, it has an internal rotating dive flange, operated by one of the two crowns on the case. The gives the dial more presence on the wrist, as there is no bezel. The Longines Legend Diver comes on a mesh metal watch strap and has a 42mm case size. It is currently available on Amazon for $1,785 USD.
Rivet Bracelet
Rivet bracelets are another vintage style bracelet that went out of favor only to become popular again (even in modern watches) as vintage watches and vintage-inspired watches have become more and more popular. A riveted bracelet looks a lot like a typical 3 link stainless steel bracelet but with rivets connecting the links on the ends. They are also actually pretty easy to use. The pin screws through the end of the two outer links and the middle of the inner link. Prior to the Oyster bracelet, Rolex even used rivet bracelets on their watches. Now Rolex uses an Oyster bracelet but the vintage Rolexes on riveted bracelets are still popular among collectors.
Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight
It seems that Tudor does homages to vintage Rolexes better than any brand, even Rolex. And we aren’t mad about it. Rolex’s less expensive sister-brand has the ability to be a little more adventurous than Rolex while also coming in at a lower price-point. One of our favorite watches in the Tudor lineup right now is the Black Fifty-Eight with black bezel. From the domed sapphire crystal, to the big crown, vintage-colored bezel markings and red bezel triangle, this watch is the closest modern recreation to the Rolex Submariner Ref. 6538 worn by Sean Connery when he played James Bond in Dr. No (1962). And yes, Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight is offered on a rivet bracelet (as many of Tudor’s current lineup are). The Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight retails for $3,950 USD.
Méraud Antigua "Soft Sand"
Not many brands opt for the vintage style rivet bracelet these days, but one of the microbrands that does so, and does so well, is Meraud. The Meraud Antigua “Soft Sand” features a cream/sand dial and a whole lot of vintage and 70s hand-wound Landeron 248 Chronograph Movement which is actually a vintage movement produced until around 1970. It’s always fun to see modern brands put refurbished vintage movements in their watches. The Meraud Antigua Soft Sand is currently on pre-order for $1,908 USD. While it comes on a leather strap, you can upgrade to a rivet bracelet for $125 USD.