The Build-Up to Watches & Wonders 2025: 5 Experts Predict the Releases
With the rumored Rolex leaks, wild predictions, and educated guesses flying across social media, it's that time of year again—the build-up to Watches & Wonders. For those new to watch collecting, Watches & Wonders is the single biggest and most important event in the watch industry. Press, influencers, and superfans all head to Geneva (specifically Palexpo, though that sounds a little less glamorous) to see what the big brands like Rolex, Cartier, and Patek Philippe have lined up for 2025. With over 60 participants, the event is a rapid succession of press conferences, VIP events, and exclusive releases that will define watchmaking for the next twelve months.
Throughout the week, we’ll hear from CEOs, designers, and watchmakers who make it all happen, giving us plenty to talk about. We recently shared our own predictions on Wrist Enthusiast Radio (check it out if you haven’t already), but we also wanted to hear from four industry experts outside of the Wrist Enthusiast bubble. We spoke with:
Vincent Brasesco, Vice-President and watch specialist at Sotheby’s
Oren Hartov, watch writer at GQ (@ohartov) https://www.instagram.com/ohartov/
Brynn Wallner, founder of Dimepiece and contributor to Vogue and The Financial Times (@dimepiece.co)
Zach Blass, editor at Time+Tide (@zach.blass)
Craig Karger, Founder of our very own Wrist Enthusiast (@craig_karger)
Let’s dive into their predictions.
Who Will Steal the Show?
When asked which brand would dominate Watches & Wonders 2025, the resounding answer was Rolex. Their hold over the show is undeniable. With the exception of Patek Philippe, Rolex is one of the few brands that withholds their new releases from the press until they are unveiled on day one. As Wallner put it, “Regardless of what they release, Rolex is the name on everyone’s lips and often the standard by which we measure everything else.”
However, other brands have successfully commanded attention in previous years. IWC and Cartier managed to steal the spotlight with releases like the Perpetual Calendar and Santos Rewind. According to Blass, for any other brand to overshadow Rolex, they need to release something that “we would never guess is coming, yet once we see it, we all think, ‘How did this not exist before?’” That sentiment perfectly sums up those past successes.
Trends and What We Want to See Continue
New releases inevitably lead to discussions about trends—what’s coming, what’s disappearing, and what’s evolving. Recently, stone dials have made a strong resurgence, reminiscent of their popularity in the 1970s, and they are expected to feature prominently at this year’s show.
But what about ongoing trends worth preserving? Karger noted that some brands have already made some big splashes this year. Vacheron Constantin started their 270 year anniversary strong, releasing the much anticipated steel Historiques 222 in January. But that release had a blue dial, not the silver dial he was expecting. He doesn’t expect to see a silver dial variation so soon, but noted he “wouldn’t be opposed to it.”
For Brasesco, brands returning to their roots and focusing on authenticity is key. “Brands should move away from gimmicks in watchmaking and double down on authentic storytelling,” he said. He pointed to TAG Heuer’s recent LVMH Watch Week releases as examples of this philosophy in action.
He also hopes major brands will shift away from an overemphasis on steel sports watches, instead refocusing on dressier, more elegant designs—styles that have largely disappeared since the 1970s. One example? The dress chronograph. “Right now, only Patek Philippe and A. Lange & Söhne really make them—but every major brand used to,” he noted. Similarly, Oren Hartov would love to see a revival of the IWC Cal. 89 dress watch.
IWC Cal. 89. Photo courtesy of Analog:Shift
The Year of Anniversary and Tribute Pieces
2025 is shaping up to be a big year for anniversary and tribute models. Nearly every major brand is celebrating a significant milestone:
Breguet – 250 years
Vacheron Constantin – 270 years
Audemars Piguet – 150 years
Hublot Big Bang – 20 years
Girard-Perregaux Laureato – 50 years
Rolex – multiple anniversaries, including the GMT-Master II’s 70th
Oren Hartov expects Rolex to make a splash after their relatively quiet 2024. He speculated that the 70th Anniversary GMT-Master II could bring a return to the slimmer, more discreet proportions of Rolex’s five-digit references. If recent Rolex leaks are accurate, his guess isn’t far off—though maybe not in the dimensions he envisioned. Karger half-jokingly speculated “will this be the year the GMT-Master II Coke finally comes back?” while also noting that someone predicts this every year.
Meanwhile, Zach Blass hopes Rolex will surprise everyone for the 80th Anniversary of the Datejust, possibly with a full platinum model featuring an ice-blue dial and exhibition caseback . He believes such a watch would “become the next hype monster in a heartbeat.”
The Sleeper Brand of 2025
Independent brands and microbrands often outperform the industry giants in creativity and value. When asked which smaller brand will stand out this year, Vincent Brasesco unsurprisingly named Furlan Marri and Berneron, both of which pushed boundaries in 2024 with standout designs.
However, when asked about 2025’s biggest sleeper brand, Vincent gave an unexpected answer: Breguet. “They’ve been a little sleepy, and for many new collectors, almost unknown—but they are undeniably the most important watchmaker of all time.” Under the leadership of George Kissling (formerly of Omega), Breguet is poised for a resurgence, and we should expect great things.
The Future of Women’s Watches
Women’s watches continue to gain traction. During LVMH Watch Week, Bvlgari introduced the automatic Serpenti, one of the most exciting women’s releases in years, proving that brands are paying more attention to female collectors.
Brynn Wallner hopes to see more of this at Watches & Wonders 2025. “I know all watches are gender-neutral, but I'd love it if one of the big brands, like Rolex or Patek Philippe, released a watch that was genuinely designed with a female collector in mind—without all the bells and whistles, like a mother-of-pearl dial.”
Zach Blass added that Tudor’s Black Bay 54 and the 35mm Oris ProPilot X suggest a shift toward more versatile case sizes that appeal to a wider audience. He hopes Tudor will expand the BB54 line with bold colors like hot pink or flamingo blue, which would cater to both men and women.
Wild Predictions: Instagram-Breaking Releases
As Rolex leaks continue to stir excitement, we asked our experts for their boldest, most Instagram-breaking predictions:
Oren Hartov suggested that brands within the same group should abandon “collaborations” based on shared technology and instead opt for true double-signature dial watches—think Cartier × Vacheron Constantin.
Craig Karger thinks that that Rolex may be ready to bring titanium to a more mainstream watch, “Maybe not a Submariner yet, but I wouldn’t be surprised to see a titanium Sea-Dweller.”
Brynn Wallner, borrowing a joke from Zoe Abelson, predicted that Rolex could re-release the King Midas for influencer Mike Nouveau—not entirely unlikely given the current stone-dial craze.
Zach Blass envisioned a titanium Patek Philippe Nautilus or Aquanaut. But Hartov noted, “It’s more likely the Messiah will touch down in New Jersey than this happening in 2025. Still, it would break horological Instagram—if not greater Instagram.”
With Watches & Wonders 2025 just around the corner, excitement is at an all-time high. Whether Rolex steals the show (again), Breguet makes a grand comeback, or an unexpected release shakes up the industry, one thing is certain: the next twelve months of watchmaking will be defined in Geneva. Stay tuned!
