Introducing the Zenith G.F.J.
Zenith has never really been the type to sit on its laurels. For a brand with more chronometry prizes than anyone else in the game (2,333, if you’re counting), you’d think they might take the occasional victory lap. But nope. For their 160th anniversary, they’ve decided to go full throttle with the new G.F.J.—a piece that pays tribute to the past while bringing some serious modern watchmaking heat.
Named after founder Georges Favre-Jacot, the G.F.J. isn’t just a nostalgic throwback. It’s the revival of the legendary calibre 135, re-engineered from the ground up, cased in platinum, and styled like a mid-century dream. There’s a lot to unpack here, from the dial details to the movement finishing, but let’s just say this: Zenith clearly wanted to make a statement. And they have.
The Basics
Case: 39.15mm, 10.5mm thickness, 45.75mm lug-to-lug, Platinum 950
Crystal: Sapphire
Movement: Manual-winding calibre 135, Small Seconds, COSC-certified, 72-hour power reserve
Water Resistance: 5 ATM
Strap Options: Dark blue alligator leather, black calfskin, blue Saffiano calfskin with optional platinum bracelet
Price: CHF 48,900 / €52,900 / USD 49,900
Availability: Limited to 160 pieces, exclusive to Zenith boutiques and authorized retailers
The Juice
Alright, let’s talk about the real story here: the movement. The original calibre 135 was basically the LeBron James of mid-century observatory trials. Between 1950 and 1954, it won five consecutive first-place prizes at the Neuchâtel Observatory. That’s not just impressive; it’s historic. And now, Zenith has brought it back, not as a museum piece, but as a fully modern, COSC-certified chronometer.
This new version still measures in at 30mm wide by 5mm thick, true to the original, but it’s been reworked with contemporary materials and tolerances. The oversized balance wheel is still here (which is part of what gave it its legendary precision), but now you’ve got a 72-hour power reserve, regulation screws, a Breguet overcoil, a stop-seconds mechanism, and optimized tooth geometry in the gear train. In plain English? It’s a vintage-inspired engine with modern performance and it’s accurate to within +/-2 seconds per day. Not bad for a manually wound piece.
Visually, the G.F.J. hits a sweet spot between classical and contemporary. The 39mm platinum case is slim and perfectly proportioned. It wears with all the presence you’d expect from a precious metal case, but without screaming for attention. The stepped bezel and lugs add just enough detail to keep things interesting.
Then there's the dial. Zenith went with a three-part design that’s a quiet flex. The outer ring features a guilloché “brick” pattern, a subtle nod to the historic facade of the Zenith manufacture. The center is deep blue lapis lazuli, flecked with gold pyrite that gives it an almost cosmic vibe. It looks like a starry night sky, and honestly, it’s kind of mesmerizing in person. The sub-seconds dial at 6 o'clock is made from mother-of-pearl, which gives a nice contrast without feeling out of place.
I also appreciate the strap situation. You get three included options (blue gator, black calfskin, and blue Saffiano), which is generous. But let’s be honest, if you’re going this deep into the luxury pool, you’re probably eyeing that platinum bracelet too. With its brick-patterned center links, it completes the watch’s visual story in a really cohesive way.
Final Thoughts
The G.F.J. isn’t about flash. It’s about flexing horological muscle in a way that only Zenith can. They didn’t just bring back a legendary movement; they reimagined it for a new generation of collectors who care about history, yes, but also about specs, finishing, and design integrity.
Is it expensive? Absolutely. But if you’re the type who knows what the calibre 135-O meant in the context of chronometry trials, then you probably already understand why this piece matters. And if you’re not? Well, the G.F.J. is a pretty compelling reason to start paying attention.
Find out more about this watch here.
