21 Best Independent Watch Brands and Our Favorite Watches of Theirs

In a world where huge manufactures, industrial micro-brands, and titanic conglomerates dominate the watchmaking industry, the small and passionate creators who stay true to the traditions, codes, and standards of the industry may seem few and far between, and potentially a little bit overlooked. However, we can assure you that this is far from being reality. Independent brands may not have the size or the power of some brands like the Swatch Group or ETA, but they embody the innovative and atypical spirit that makes horology so fascinating. In many cases, as we hope you’ll come to see, independent watch makers are the ones pushing the boundaries of technology, all whilst maintaining the important traditions and practices that have shaped the watch world we know today.

What is an Independent Watch brand?

In short, the real answer to this is a little convoluted. Technically speaking, it means a brand that isn’t owned by a larger conglomerate like LVMH or Swatch Group. Or more specifically, they’re wholely owned by themselves or the investors that fund them. But, that being said, Rolex and Patek Philippe would technically fall into that category, so it begs the question of what enthusiasts think. More practically, an Independent brand is typically considered a brand that produces more avent-garde designs that are both limitedly produced and very exclusive. For the most part, from a practical standpoint, Independent Watchmaking tends to fall into the ethos of exclusivity and design language. For most enthusiasts, the threshold of independent watchmaking tends to mean that the brand sells to an extremely limited clientele. Similar to “Drops” in the fashion world, Independent brands tend to produce very limited models for very specific customers. They aren’t at the behest of a parent company that dictates their decision-making or their direction.

How is it different from a MicroBrand?

Microbrand’s tend to conform to a number of different definitions. Once again, we have to differentiate between the practical and the technical. Technically, microbrands consist of small teams (often individuals) who create a watch or watch product that’s produced in small quantities. Practically, Microbrand’s are super limited numbers for watch brands that typically don’t have a lot of resources or design expectations. More often than not, Microbrand’s tend to be an individual’s vision for a watch that may or may not be avent-gard, but still limited. Practically speaking, many enthusiasts consider Microbrand’s more positioned in a lot of the affordable spaces because of the small teams, as opposed to some of the luxury Independents with large teams and plenty of resources at their disposal.

What are the best independent Watch brands?

We’ve compiled a list of some of our favorite Independent brands here. There are a number of brands that our readership may not have heard of, or watches that they may not have seen so we tried to highlight a lot of the Independents we think are amazing watchmakers that are important overall to the industry. So without Further Ado, let’s get into it.

Grönefeld

Grönefeld were founded way back in 1912, in Oldenzaal. This name may seem foreign to most of you, and that’s because in the watch making world it is. Grönefeld is one of the only, and oldest, Dutch watch makers in the world. A family business since the beginning, the manufacture has taken a new turn with brother Tim and Bart now at the helm, which has earnt the brand its nickname ‘the Horological Brothers’. Their craft has been honed in the famous ateliers of London and Switzerland and is being distilled into their fantastic prize winning designs.

1941 Principia Automatic Salmon Dial

The 1941 Principia Automatic Salmon Dial is probably one of the best examples of a discreet luxury watch, one of the independent watchmaking industry’s most attractive characteristics. The design could not be more traditional from an aesthetic or proportional point of view, and it radiates a refined aura that is hard to escape. The salmon dial is just sublime as it contrasts with the striking blue hands. The movement too is a thing of beauty with its contrasting textures and finishes that really makes you want to wear the watch case-side up the entire time. This beautiful watch starts at €36,900 or approximately $39,000 USD for the steel version.

1941 Remontoire Red Gold and Rhodium

The 1941 Remontoir Red Gold and Rhodium is one Grönefeld’s most highly recognized pieces- nominee and winner of the watchmaking industry’s most prestigious awards this fantastic design has really proved its mettle. The 8 second remontoire movement is of the highest technological complication. Providing constant force, it ensures that the movement stays accurate and precise right until the end of its power-reserve. Enveloping the complex beating heart is a beautiful red gold case and rhodium dial that work in perfect harmony with the open caseback, creating a sort of symmetry. This watch is highly sought after but is sadly unavailable for the foreseeable future, but retailed for $54,000 USD.

Czapek

Officially launched in 2015, Czapek has been creating distinctly modern timepieces that incorporate watchmaking’s oldest and most prestigious complications into their unique designs. With a story dating back to 1811, Czapek pays homage to one of eastern Europe’s prestigious watchmakers, who supplied aristocrats, royals, and emperors with timepieces. Czapek is one of the few brands who are publicly traded, a novel way for watch brands to raise funds and promote investment in their technology, which really sets them apart from the bunch. Completely independent since 2020, Czapek is expanding rapidly with its new facilities in la Chaux de Fonds- the cradle of the industry.

Antarctique Chronograph Rattrapante Openworked

The Czapek Antarctique Chronograph Rattrapante Openworked is a mouthful of a name for a watch, however it does explain all of this piece’s functions in a nutshell. This fantastic design is wonderfully avant-garde. The integrated bracelet is a thing of beauty, that everyone (and we mean everyone) is trying to emulate, but without success. The metal flows seamlessly into and around the openworked movement that is itself a small work of art. The components are all beautifully finished, and the contrast of the hands makes it super legible, which is a rarity for open movements. The chronograph is activated by a monopusher that is virtually invisible. The silver-grey version pictured is a limited edition of 77, but the ice blue version currently part of the catalog is a limited edition run of 99 pieces, with a $57,000 USD price tag.

Place Vendôme Titanium ‘Ombres’

La Place Vendôme is one of Paris’ most iconic landmarks, famed for its opulent and grandiose architecture. Today it is home to haute-horlogerie and haute-joaillerie boutiques, and so naming this Czapek model after it is only fitting. Limited to 25 pieces, this watch is something of a masterpiece. The tourbillion powered GMT movement, as well as day and night indicator meld seamlessly into the gentle lines of the weightless Titanium case. The time display incorporates a power-reserve indicator into the Grand Feu enamel ring that sits on a beautiful brass dial. This watch shows how well Czapek master their craft and design language. It retails for $100,000 USD.

H. Möser & Cie.

H. Möser & Cie. is one of our industry’s richest brands in terms of heritage. Heinrich Möser, originally from Schaffhausen in Germany, moved to St. Petersburg to supply the Russian aristocracy with opulent pieces in the mid-19th Century. He then moved his operation to Switzerland, where he continued to produce fantastic watches for the European elites. Rumored to have produced over 500,000 watches over his lifetime, Möser is one of horology’s greatest craftsmen. Today, the brand is continuing his legacy with their sublime designs for the 21st century and beyond.

Streamliner Small Seconds Blue Enamel

Möser’s Streamliner collection is quite possibly the complete opposite of Czapek’s integrated-watch design language. Where Czapek prefers angular and bold elements, Moser have opted for soft and supple curves that are reminiscent of the 1960s’ interior design trends. Definitely governed by minimalist philosophy, the Streamliner Small Seconds Blue Enamel is oriented towards the finer details that make this watch so special: the fume enamel dial, the beautiful micro-rotor movement, and the delicate dial furniture. All in all, this piece is a statement of discretion and excellent craftsmanship. It retails for CHF 29,900 or approximately $34,000 USD.

Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillion Skeleton

The Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillion Skeleton is a three-dimensional work of art. Displaying the best of Möser’s technological ability, it exposes the intricate, almost living, components that bring this ‘kinetic sculpture’ to life. The flying tourbillion is front and centre, attracting all the attention as it seemingly hangs off threads at the 6 o’clock position of the skeletonized movement. At the 12 o’clock position we find the time display, a domed dial with raised indices that contrast strikingly with the dark tones of the blue enamel dial. This watch retails for a massive CHF 79,000, or approximately $91,000 USD.

Fleming

Fleming is a newcomer to the watch industry that’s made a lot of waves with their first model - The Series 1. Starting as a brainchild of James Khan (@waitlisted) and Thomas Fleming. The brand, while young, has established quite an experienced team around them, including young Tennis star Casper Ruud, who’s been seen wearing Fleming in press photos. Further, the brand has been able to accumulate quite the rolodex of talent including renowned watchmaker Jean-François Mojon of Chronode, and Comblémine creating dial components. To see such success from such a young brand is rare, and with more work in the hopper, Fleming looks like it’s got a bright future ahead of them.

Series 1

The Series 1 offering from Fleming comes in 3 flavors and in 3 materials - Rose Gold, Tantalum, and Platinum. Our favorite is the rose gold model with a grey dial. The case structure is uniquely dressy with sportier elements like skeletonized lugs with an exaggerated taper. But the real star of the show is the dial. It features a slew of different dial textures designed and implemented by Comblémine in Saint Sulpice.a Each finishing gives superb contrast making the watch extremely legible. Inside the hand-wound watch is the Calibre FM-01 - A twin barrel movement that features some pretty insane finishing and a whopping 168-hour power reserve. The whole package is tied together with a Jean Rousseau leather strap. Overall, Fleming has created a watch with all the features a serious collector would come to expect from an independent luxury watch brand. It makes us excited to see what the brand does in the future. You can pick up the rose gold model for 48,500 CHF.

Read our full review here.

Kari Voutilainen

Originally from Finland, watchmaker Kari Voutilainen moved to Switzerland in the 1990s to complete his horological education in the field of complicated movements, specializing in the restoration and creation of these complex beasts. Working at Parmigiani for over a decade, Voutilainen decided that it was time to devote his time to the craft and the teaching of students. Since then, Voutilainen has also dedicated his time to making his own designs for a select few.

Ji-Ku

The Ji-Ku is a fantastic interpretation of the classic world-time complication. The movement is beautifully finished, displayed by the gorgeous sapphire caseback. The dial side is the star of this show. The centre circle is made from traditional Japanese and pacific raw materials that give the watch a wonderful exotic and almost natural feel. The hands are a classic shape, hinting at the creator’s classical training. The world time disc is a little bit different to what you would usually find, upon closer inspection, this piece has got some personal touches that really make it unique, which is all the more important as a one of one creation.

28ti

The 28ti by Kari Voutilainen is often heralded as the watchmaker’s style boiled down to one design. Here, simplicity and the finer details are key. Showcasing numerous technical skills, such as versatility with materials, challenging movement construction, and finishing, Voutilainen is cementing himself as a master craftsman, something only a select few can legitimately claim. The exposed movement fuses seamlessly with the displays on both sides of the watch, an extremely unique feature. This piece is available upon request from Voutilainen’s catalog.

Simon Brette

Simon Brette is born out of love and passion for the finest traditions in the watchmaking industry. Committed to maintaining and reviving some of the oldest practices and traditions known to the craft. At the helm of the manufacture is the eponymous Simon Brette, an engineer specialized in movement and mechanisms who fell in love with the trade during his studies. The brand strive to produce the most technologically capable watches using the proper traditions and techniques, obviously they’re going to get noticed by everyone.

Chronomètre Artisans

The Chronomètre Artisans is the result of years of passion and centuries of tradition distilled into a single watch. Every component has been expertly crafted out of the highest quality materials. The hand finished dial is exquisite, with the final effect resembling gold dust. The movement, visible through an aperture in the dial, effortlessly integrates itself into the whole ensemble, with the offset small seconds providing that vital linkage. Through the back of the case, the rest of the movement is laid out symmetrically, showing the extent of the work required to create such a high-end watch. The whole piece is brought together by the fine details and finishes that pop out of every element upon closer inspection. This watch has sold out but was available for an undisclosed sum.

Ming

Compared to the rest of their colleagues on the independent scene, Ming are a relatively young, and, as they firmly state, without any history or heritage. Not bound by any burden or traditions mean that Ming can focus on producing their own unique and distinct designs. Founded by a group of six watch lovers and enthusiasts, Ming is determined to provide a wearer focused watch that is a bit alternative.

LW.01 Manual

The LW.01 Manual is probably one of the most spectacular watches to feature in this guide. Visually it looks like just another design from Ming, with their signature hands and futuristic look. However, this one isn’t just another design, you couldn’t be more wrong if you thought that. Using magnesium, in what could be an industry first, to build an ultra-light case is a stroke of genius and materials knowledge- the watch weighs in at a mere 8.8g or 10.8g for the automatic version, which is simply ridiculous. Even the movement has been completely overhauled to meet the design brief for this watch, eking out every single gram. This insane build would set you back CHF 19,500 or approximately $22,000 USD.

37.08 Sand

The 37.08 Sand is a unique interpretation of Ming’s classic oblong design. Retaining the same features as the others, including the hand-winding movement which ensures a slim and light case, the 37.08 Sand turns a new page in the brand’s story. Ming are now experimenting with textured dials, and have pulled this one off with some flair. The sand dune pattern has been nailed perfectly, so perfectly that you would be forgiven for believing that it was made out of actual grains. To achieve this natural look, Ming’s design team used 3D models that were calibrated with pictures of sand dunes so that they could produce the most accurate and realistic looking effect-chapeau! This quirky piece retails for CHF3,950 or approximately $4,500 USD.

Ludovic Ballouard

Ludovic Ballouard is a Franco-Dutch watchmaker who honed his craft in the workshops of Franck Müller and F.P. Journe for almost 15 years until he launched his operation. Releasing his first design, the Upside-Down, in 2011, Ballouard has been on an upward trajectory ever-since, creating even crazier watches for us to admire. His signature style revolves around a complete display of the movement, which he believes in essential to his wearer experience.

Upside-Down

The Upside Down is Ballouard’s first design, which he managed to accomplish in only a year. The time is displayed in a unique manner involving a seconds hand, a minutes hand, and twelve revolving discs that indicate the hour. Each disc has its respective numerals on it, and flips the right way up (activated by a mechanism which is in principle similar to the jump hour) at the turn of the hour. The movement, displayed by the caseback, is on another level of complexity. Each disc is activated by a small gear, which is driven by a central spring. The level of understanding required to explain how one of the movements actually works is insane, now imagine how much it takes to design one. This watch is available for order from LB and there are many options for customization if you can afford it.

Half-Time

The Half-Time was designed with the same philosophy in mind as the previous: time displayed differently. The hours are indicated by an aperture at the 12 o’clock position that highlights the numerals that come together on two rotating discs that move in opposite directions. The minutes are displayed by a needle at the 6 o’clock position, that resets itself on the hour. Coming in a couple of different colorways and case materials, there’s certainly an option for everyone who’s got the budget.

Moritz Grossmann

Historically tied to the cradle of German watchmaking, Glashütte, Moritz Grossman produces some of the finest Saxon timepieces in the independent sector. . Named after an 1850s watchmaker from Dresden, the company became the German Watchmaking institute, which only closed its doors to students in 1992. The watchmaker’s business was restarted by Christine Hutter in 2008 as part of the German Clock Museum. The brand has been on journey to bring back Glashütte’s finest artisanal work since the revival in 2008. Moritz Grossman has well and truly cemented itself back in the industry, with its 2019 Global Roadshow.

Tremblage

The Moritz Grossman Tremblage is potentially one of the most discreet and simple chronographs available on the market and I say this tentatively as it is not technically a chronograph but an extremely elegant dress watch. Entirely crafted from gold, the dial is subtle and exudes a paper-like feel. The real star of the show is the beautiful movement, displayed by the caseback, that shows exactly why time-only watches are so sublime. However, the discreet pushers just below the crown acts as a stop seconds function, enabling one to occasionally use it as a timing device- however I’m fairly sure this is not recommended by the brand. It retails for $61,000 USD.

Backpage

Another rather unique watch from Moritz Grossman: the Backpage. Unusual by industry standards this time, the Backpage is one thing: flipped. At a first glance of both the ‘dial’ side and the ‘watchmakers’ side, you would be forgiven for thinking that everything is perfectly normal for a high horology watch. But that’s far from the case really. The movement has been completely inverted. The dial side components are facing downwards, whilst the gear train and escapement mechanisms are fully visible and exposed to our scrutiny. The remainder of the dial’s skeleton is a stunning hue of blue, that brings out the componentry even more. Limited to a mere 18 pieces, this striking blue piece retails for $60,500 USD.

Ressence

Born in Antwerp in 2010, Ressence are turning the watchmaking world upside down with their revolutionary and innovative cutting-edge designs. Benoît Mintiens, the founder, wanted to create something with a unique wearing experience, and to say that he has would be a phenomenal understatement. The assembly of dials, rotors, and discs that make up the time displays are all completely different and each design has a multitude of different functionalities- the only thing the watches have in common is the fact that they’re so different. Highly decorated at the industry’s annual awards, Ressence has really blown it out of the park in their short history.

Type 3

The Type 3 looks like a creation from the future that’s just been dropped in 2024. The overlap of so many functions is chaotic yet makes sense as every single display is perfectly legible day and night. Filled with oil, the constantly shifting dial looks surreal, almost ignoring the laws of physics. The borderless crystal is simply baffling for any enthusiast, who will spend their time trying to understand how it can possibly work. To disrupt the status quo of industry standards, Ressence have scrapped all traditional codes- except the mechanical heart, which somehow powers this futuristic piece. The Type 3 retails for CHF 38,200 or approximately $44,000 USD.

Type 8

The Type 8 is diametrically opposed to the Type 3. Where the Type 3 opts for functions and displays, the Type prefers simplicity and harmony. The roundness of the watch is flawless, the two discs that make up the time display orbit each other like the Earth and the Moon: a beautiful symphony. More focused on the finish and visual aspects, Ressence have perfected two gorgeous but subtle colors for the dial that give the watch insane depth that swallows your gaze. The watch retails for CHF 12,500 or approximately $14,300 USD.

Vianney Halter

As a child, watchmaker Vianney Halter dreamt of far-away galaxies and hidden universes driven by wonderful and out of this world mechanical creations. After pursuing his horological education, Halter worked in the restoration business for almost 15 years, before collaborating with the likes of Audemars Piguet and Breguet as independent horological innovator. His own creations are an expression of his avant garde style and atypical interpretation of this tradition-based craft.

Deep-Space Tourbillon

The Deep-Space Tourbillion is a remarkable interpretation of the classic complication. The mechanism really appears to be floating in another dimension as it’s suspended between multi-dimensional layers of sapphire. Resembling a module of a space station, this escapement really captures the attention. The ring dial that entraps it is multi-faceted and plays with our visualization of time, especially given the unconventional hands that orbit the tourbillion. This futuristic piece is a fantastic display of unconventional watchmaking and is available for an undisclosed sum.

La Resonance

Based on a highly revered complication, La Resonance steps up the whole concept of a chiming wristwatch movement. Completely built around the calibre, the design is a temple to horological engineering: sapphire plates in the case let us view unseen angles and the completely skeletonized bridges allow us to see right into the inner workings. The symmetry of the double barrels is visible from the dial side, remarkable given that they’re pressed up against the caseback. This insanely complex piece is a testament to Vianney Halter’s mastery of his craft. It can be purchased for an undisclosed sum.

F.P. Journe

F.P. Journe is a watch brand that claims to be "the link between the golden age of horological science and contemporary watchmaking." Founded by Fracois-Paul Journe, the company is celebrating its twentieth anniversary this year.

Journe uses a catchphrase on every timepiece - "Invenit et Fecit" - which means "Invented and made." He started by creating specialty timepieces for high-end clients but wanted to produce watches for a wider variety of the watch-wearing public. That led Journe to bring on a bigger team so that he can continue to serve as the creative mastermind but without assembling all the watches himself.

Chronometre Bleu

High-end watchmaking doesn't always come in flashy packages. Sometimes it comes down to the fundamentals executed flawlessly and subtle well-planned touches. F.P. Journe's Chronometre Bleu is a perfect example of a watch like that. The simple blue dial contrasts with the ivory-colored steel hands and numbers to make a subtle statement. Although the dial may give off vibes of subtlety, the case is the major flex of the timepiece. The Bleu has a 39mm case made of tantalum - a very sturdy metal rarely used in watchmaking because of its high level of difficulty. But the end result is a deep grey case with hints of blue and one that is tougher than nails. Bleu features an automatic movement with substantial amounts of 18k rose gold and a 56-hour power reserve. The price for F.P. Journe's Chronometre Bleu is available upon request / at one of their boutique locations.

FFC Calibre 1300.3

Nope, this timepiece is not a nod to Thanos, but it's every bit as spectacular. This timepiece is full of flair and is probably the only timekeeping hand you've ever seen. From a high-end perspective, this watch checks all the boxes - platinum case, titanium accents, and 18k gold throughout the movement. But the real showstopper of this timepiece is the hand. For this watch, for the first time we've ever seen, Journe counts hours on the fingers of the front-and-center hand. The hand itself was designed after the first prosthetic hand French surgeon Ambroise Pare created. With 7 years of watchmaking mechanical work, Journe has designed the fingers of the hand to move as a way to display the hours of the day. Incredibly enough, the watch remains 10.7mm thick - identical to Journe's other watches that use the same movement. At 42mm in diameter and with 120 hours of power reserve, this rare watch can appeal to almost anyone. As a limited edition release, contact F.P. Journe for price information.

MB&F

If you're a watch aficionado, you've drooled over an MB&F timepiece before. MB&F, which stands for Maximillian Busser & Friends, is just under 20 years old yet their timepieces are incredible. Busser created the company to deconstruct watchmaking in the traditional sense to produce 3-D kinetic art.

MB&F is most impressive at creating innovative timepieces that defy expectations and are unlike anything wearers have ever seen. While MB&F does have some timepieces that are along the lines of traditional watches, their Horological Machines and Performance Art are unique in every sense of the word. Let's discuss a couple of our favorite recent releases from Busser and Friends.

Legacy Machine Perpetual

With the Legacy Machine Perpetual, MB&F delivered a timepiece with modern-day technology contrasted against finishes akin to the 19th century. While the watch is surprisingly complex, the watchmakers kept its appearance elegant. With the skeleton dial as the backdrop, the watch has 4 subdials at the 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock marks. The top subdial tells time and the other 3 subdials control the perpetual calendar. MB&F's complex movement in this watch includes 581 components. Multiple materials combine into the 44mm case, including 18k red/yellow/white golf, platinum, titanium, and stainless steel. With a power reserve of 72 hours, the Legacy Machine Perpetual is a strong timepiece for collectors and aficionados alike. Price is available $180,000 USD.

Horological Machine No 11

MB&F's Horological Machine (HM) 11 a.k.a. "The Architect" is a timepiece unlike any you've ever seen before. It is a visual flat surface with 4 “rooms” jutting out at the 3-6-9-12 marks on the timepiece. These rooms can rotate around the watch and each holds a different function. They are unique due to the fact that you view them through a small circular sapphire window from the side of the watch instead of straight on. Those 4 “rooms” display the time, the power reserve, the temperature, and the enlarged crown, which MB&F refers to as the “key” to the house. As you might expect, MB&F includes a phenomenal movement - a tourbillon - with a massive 96-hour power reserve. Available in 2 colorways, the Architect is limited to 25 timepieces each. MB&F’s Architect retails for $230,000 USD.

De Bethune

In a Swiss landscape of giant watchmakers, there are few independent ones in the mix. De Bethune is one such watchmaker that packs a powerful punch. Led by co-founder Denis Flageollet and CEO Pierre Jaques, De Bethune balances new timepiece concepts with classic wristwatch aesthetics.

De Bethune's focus on complications, haute horology, and innovation makes it worth a closer look. Innovations that have come out of De Bethune's manufacture include blueing titanium, a floating lug designed with ergonomics in mind, a round moon phase display (versus the flat ones typically used on a watch dial), and microlight decoration. Here are a couple of our favorite innovative timepieces from De Bethune.

Dream watch 5 Tourbillon

This watch almost doesn't look like a watch; perhaps "Dream" is the perfect name for it. It almost passes as a futuristic bracelet - something out of a superhero movie or Hollywood. Instead of a traditional round or rectangular shape, the watch tapers to a point on one end and is wide on the other - akin to the shape of a helmet. De Bethune does not provide much detail about the inner workings of the timepiece but perhaps that’s intentional - sometimes dreams should just stay dreamy. On the face of the timepiece, the time is displayed in jump hour fashion - keeping the time minimal and the cutting-edge style at a maximum. Price and further details are available upon request / at a boutique.

DB28XP

De Bethune’s DB28 is one of the brand’s most iconic designs so the brand had to up the ante when the watch collection turned 10 a few years ago. The result is the DB28 XP, a complex masterpiece of a watch. The DB28XP has numerous aesthetic nuances that work together seamlessly, such as the crown located at the 12 o’clock mark, the titanium case and accents all throughout the dial, a partial skeleton dial with texture on the remaining portions, and De Bethune’s patented floating lugs. The case measures 43mm and is just 7.2mm thick. Front-and-center on the dial is a rounded triangle, which is the central bridge guard. Powering the DB28XP is a mechanical movement with 29 jewels and a 6-day power reserve. Price is available upon request / at a boutique.

Rexhep Rexhepi

Rexhep Rexhepi was a watchmaker at F.P. Journe when he realized he needed to more freely express his creativity. Thus at the ripe age of 24, he started a small, independent Swiss watch brand out of his apartment. A dozen years later, Rexhepi is known for both mechanical and aesthetic precision; it's no wonder why Rexhepi chose the name Akrivia (Greek for "precision").

One of the factors that allows for such precision in their timepieces is that the atelier only produces 30 or fewer watches every year. Thus, each watch gets a significant amount of time from Rexhepi and team to ensure sufficient time for the traditional watchmaking techniques they use. Our favorite timepiece from Rexhepi's watchmaking table is the Chronometre Antimagnetique.

Chronometre Antimagnetique

Powerful magnetic fields abound in the polar regions of our planet - the destination of many explorers after World War II. Rexhep Rexhepi was inspired to take up both the form and function of polar exploration with the Chronometre Antimagnetique. Subtle nods of vintage style abound in this timepiece - such as the black dial (which is solid silver, by the way), brown dial decorations, and capital letter text. The 39mm stainless steel case is decorated in a nuanced way, with multiple levels of “stairstepping” moving beyond the dial. At the heart of this timepiece is a 25-jewel automatic movement with a 72-power reserve. The movement is nestled within a Faraday cage made up of the movement ring, caseback, and dial plate - to protect against magnetism. The price for the Chronometre Antimagnetique is available upon request.

Parmigiani Fleurer

Michel Parmigiani founded Parmigiani Fleurier after cutting his teeth on watch repair and restoration. Parmigiani was successful at that endeavor, earning respect from the Patek Philippe Museum and the Chateau des Monts. After creating custom timepieces on the side for two decades, Parmigiani founded the maison of Parmigiani Fleurier in 1996.

After releasing several successful timepieces in the late 1990s, Parmigiani partnered with Bugatti for an innovative watch built along a single axis as in a car engine. Aside from innovations like the Bugatti collaboration, Parmigiani worked with tourbillons, ultra-slim watches, and watches with telescopic hands. It was also the first watchmaker to produce a watch based on the Islamic lunar calendar. Here are two Parmigianis we love.

Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante

With the Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante, Parmigiani Fleurer flexes its watchmaking innovation muscles while still maintaining a relatively simple outward appearance. Visually, the timepiece holds to a blue dial and silver accents, with just a hint of rose gold. Upon close examination, the dial has Grain d’Orge guilloché finishing - to subtly give personality and flair. The bezel adds another subtle flair, due to its coin-edge texture. Functionality is really where the watch shines - this Tonda includes a unique GMT function - the split GMT. In the first iteration of this in the horological world, the split GMT makes for a seamless and easy way to read the time of 2 time zones. The rose gold hand is intentional - it represents the second time zone’s hour. So reading times is as simple as reading whichever time zone’s hour and then using the universal minutes hand. It’s just that easy. Powering the timepiece is an automatic movement with 31 jewels, a 48-hour power reserve, and 22k rose gold accents. Parmigiani Fleurer’s Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante retails for just under $32,900 USD.

Tonda PF Skeleton

While the overall style of Parmigiani Fleurer’s Tonda PF Flying Tourbillon Platinum Blue is similar to that of the GMT Rattrapante, the luxury and power are on another level. Instead of the straightforward automatic movement in the GMT, this timepiece obviously employs a tourbillon - visible through an open heart hole at the 7 o’clock mark. The tourbillon sits at just 3.4mm thick and provides a 48-hour power reserve. This timepiece’s dial is made of platinum that appears in a shade of blue. A platinum 950 case ups the luxury value as well. Finally, platinum makes its way into the heart of the watch as well via the micro-rotor movement. Parmigiani Fleurer’s Tonda PF Flying Tourbillon Platinum Blue retails for just over $173,000 USD.

Greubel Forsey

When a watchmaker has a motto like "Art of Invention," you would expect a wide variety of innovative timepieces. And you would be right for the brand Greubel Forsey. Founded by 2 entrepreneurs - Robert Gruebel and Stephen Forsey in 1999, Gruebel Forsey (also denoted as GF) specializes in developing new timekeeping technology. They began by revamping the watch escapement with Meccano and they haven't looked back since.

In 2004, Gruebel Forsey created a double tourbillon and in 2008 they used the technology in their first "Invention Piece." Later that year, the watchmakers delivered a quadruple Tourbillon to the watch community. They continued to use the Tourbillon movement in every watch until 2016. Two concepts revisited multiple times in GF watches are that of asymmetry and round cases with a "bump" interrupting the circle. Here are two of our favorite GF' watches.

Convexe Balencier 3

The Balancier 3 is Greubel Forsey’s ultimate watch for the everyman - not just the horologists. With this timepiece, GF spent decades perfecting a small movement to help keep the size of the timepiece to a neutral 41.5mm. From a stylistic perspective, the dial has multiple movement components exposed in a way that feels more like an open heart than a skeleton dial. Available in blue and grey/black and with a titanium case, the timepiece truly pops. The hue of the dial meshes with the movement components beautifully. Powering the watch is an automatic movement with a 72-hour power reserve. Only 88 of the watches will be made between 2024-2028. Greubel Forsey advises that the timepiece has a more affordable price than their typical watches; The price is $185,000 USD.

Tourbillon Carden

If the Balancier 3 was Greubel Forsey’s attempt to scale the timepiece back, the Tourbillon Carden is its attempt to maximize timekeeping performance. This tourbillon is packed with technological advances, including:

A 16-second rotation as opposed to the traditional 60 seconds;
A large 12.6mm balance wheel
A 30-degree angle for the tourbillon
Two mobile rings guiding the tourbillon
Four barrels

The technical prowess of this timepiece is not to be doubted and Greubel Forsey used those advancements stylistically on the watch as well. The result is a watch either a powerful wrist presence, both in design and size. The timepiece sits at 45.5mm wide and 18.15mm thick. Only 55 of these timepieces will be made from 2023 to 2027; price for the watch cames in north of $500,000 USD.

Urwerk

Tradition and future: that is the twofold focus of the watchmaking company URWERK. Founded by Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei, the company's purpose was to create high-end watches that blend tradition with futuristic art concepts. Its name is a combination of its origination point (Ur) and the German word meaning "to work, create, evolve, shape, forge, and arouse emotions." Baumgartner and Frei founded the company in 1997 and their first watch was a vintage wandering hour watch with futuristic nuances.

Just over a decade later, URWERK released the UR-202 - a Turbine Automatic watch with a never-before-seen satellite complication and a winding system driven by compressed air. That satellite complication is a recurring theme throughout many of URWERK's timepieces. URWERK has a way of revisiting concepts but with enough innovation and design that each watch feels unique. Here are our favorite futuristic-feeling watches.

UR-100

If bold and futuristic is the name of the game, URWERK will take the trophy with the UR-100. The UR-100 employs one of URWERK's most recognizable time-telling methods - the satellite display with rotating hour "satellites" that specify the hour and point to the minute. That satellite display is the main focal point of the 41mm timepiece, along with the vibrant dial and case colors. Powering these watches is URWERK's self-winding mechanical movement regulated by their Planetary Turbine Automatic System, which results in a 48-hour power reserve. The UR-100 includes an additional functionality - an indicator to designate the rotations of the Earth in the past 20 minutes and the revolutions around the Sun in the past 20 minutes.

This timepiece has 4 variations:

The UR-100V Time and Culture II, which is a vibrant blue with a myriad of markings on the dial and case in the style of Egyptian hieroglyphics.
The UR-100V Magic T, which is done in various shades of grey
The UR-100V Ultraviolet - a stunning display of contrast in purple and white.
The UR-100V Stardust, done in white and grey but with a textured case to mimic surfaces in space.

The price for the UR-100 is available upon request.

UR-210

Intro / Tie-in to Brand
Visual appeal
Technology or mechanical
Rarity and Price

With the UR-210, URWERK takes a similar concept to the UR-100, redesigns the aesthetics, and enhances the functionality. Visually, you'll first notice the satellite display for keeping time - with a gorgeous, stark contrast in every colorway. In the UR-100, the satellites were similar to discs; with the UR-210, the satellites appear to be shaped more like a block. The functionality enhancement is what URWERK calls the next evolution in the relationship between a watch and its wearer: feedback for the wearer. It comes via the winding efficiency over the past 2 hours - essentially letting the wearer know if he or she is active enough to keep the self-winding movement winding the watch properly. The 43.8mm timepiece also provides a power gauge to let the wearer know what portion of the 39-hour power reserve remains and a winding efficiency selector on the caseback. The UR-210 is available in 4 colorways:

UR-210 BPT in red and black with grooves on the case.
UR-210 RG in black and rose gold, with red accents.
UR-210 Steel in a dark, charcoal-colored steel with a negative black and white display.
UR_210S in a stainless steel or silver color with a black and white display.

The price for the UR-100 is available upon request.

Konstantin Chaykin

For a watchmaker that has been in existence for just over 20 years, Konstantin Chaykin has achieved significant levels of success. Founded in 2023 by its namesake, Chaykin creates all its watches in Russia. His first project was a large clock with a tourbillon - the first tourbillon produced in Russia in almost 200 years. Innovation is the name of the game for Chaykin, as his body of work includes a watch made for Mars exploration, the world's largest 3-D moonphase indicator, and a watch that includes a mechanical movie projector.

Chaykin is best known for his collection called Wristmons (a word made up of wrist + monster). He released Wristmons in 2017 and the collection now includes over 25 models, each depicting a face on the dial. The inaugural model was the Joker - you have 100% seen it before if you've spent much time in the horological community. Chaykin's latest creation is an entry in the Wristmons collection but more complicated than any before; his Stargazer includes 17 complications and over 664 parts in the movement.

Wristmon

As mentioned above, "Wristmons" (shortened version of "Wrist" and "Monster") is the quintessential Konstantin Chaykin collection. With over 20 timepieces in the collection, they offer wearers precise, fine watchmaking with a reminder to not take life too seriously. Of all the faces represented in the Wristmon collection, Joker is by far the most famous. For the Wristmons collection, each eyeball represents the hours and minutes respectively of the time and the mouth represents a moonphase indicator. Chaykin utilized a separate disc for each eye, which are together powered by an automatic movement with a 38-hour power reserve. In addition to 6 iterations of the Joker watch, the Wristmons collection also includes Harley Quinn, a Minion, Santa Claus, several other clowns, and numerous other animals. Prices for the Wristmons collection start at $11,000 USD and go up depending on configuration and material.

Lunokhod

If you couldn't tell, Konstantine Chaykin loves taking chances with his watch designs. The trend continues with the Lunokhod; in this watch, Chaykin inserted the world's largest 3D moon phase indicator front-and-center on the watch. It takes up 12mm of the 47.7mm of the diameter. The moon is made of a rare metal called bulat stainless steel - a high carbon steel grade that gives the 3D moon a more realistic finish. Chaykin also uses the metal on the case of the watch, which gives the watch an industrial look. The case itself is an unusual shape - at first glance, it appears to be trapezoidal but it has some round edges as well. Powering the timepiece is an automatic movement with a 38-hour power reserve. Price for the Lunokhod as well as its upgraded cousin done in rose gold - the Lunokhod Prime - is available upon request.

Fears London

In contrast to many of the independent watchmakers we've discussed that are less than 25 years old, Fears London is less than 25 years away from being 200 years old. If you think "Fears" is an atypical name for watchmakers, it came from its founder, Edwin Fear. All watches bore the full name or initials of its founder until it was changed to "Fears Limited" in 1908. Since the 1930s, the company has been known simply as "Fears."

Despite incurring damaged facilities from World War II, Fears continued growing throughout the first half of the 1900s. The brand unfortunately faded away in 1976; this was likely influenced by, or directly as a result of, the Quartz Crisis in the watch industry. Forty years after closing its doors, the great-great-great-grandson of Edwin Fear - Nicholas Bowman-Scargill - revived the Fears brand. Since its revival, Fears has released several watches that were inspired by, or direct revisions of, original Fears watches from the early 1900's.

Brunswick 40

As a company back from the grave, Fears is more grateful than most for the successes of their past. The past - specifically, a cushion case watch from 1924 was the inspiration for the Brunswick 40. 100 years later, it seems every bit as fashionable and relevant as it was then. The aesthetic of the watch itself is vintage and simple - digits 1-12 and plain "Fears" text in an almost military watch style. But this isn't your grandfather's watch. The solid black hands, straightforward bezel, and bespoke stainless steel 5-link bracelet add a modern touch to the timepiece. The salmon-colored dial is two-tone, as the center is lower in height than the outer section and they are finished differently (sandblast in the center versus hand-brushed vertical marks on the outer). Powering the Brunswick 40 is the ETA 2824-2 Swiss-made movement with its date function removed for a time-only display. The Brunswick 40 Copper Salmon is available for $3,750 USD with a strap and $3,950 USD with a bracelet, exclusive of VAT.

HYT

Several watchmakers we've discussed blend horology with art; HYT is unique in that it blends horology with science. Founded in 2012, HYT uses mechanical-fluidic technology to power its timepieces. To say that HYT has mastered and harnessed this technology would be an understatement - the science behind how their watches keep time is just short of mind-blowing. The simplest way to describe their timekeeping technology is that each HYT watch has a tube that surrounds the movement. Within the tube is a brightly-colored liquid; as time moves on, the colored liquid advances within the tube to designate the hour. The watch then has a more traditional timekeeping mechanism to note the minutes.

While the above summation sounds straightforward, the technology used in HYT timekeeping is incredibly advanced in actuality. The colored and clear liquids HYT uses contain specific chemicals that cannot mix - to ensure there is always a clear endpoint to the color. More than simply a design element, HYT watches include a set of bellows - each responsible for one of the liquids in the hour tube. As one liquid advances from its bellow, the other recedes into its respective bellow. Then, twice a day, the colored liquid "rewinds" to designate the start of a new 12 hours. Impressive? Undoubtedly. Breathtaking? Pretty much, yes. Here are a couple of our favorite iterations of the HYT technology.

Hastroid

Hastroid is HYT's flagship collection, with 9 different variations. Our favorite is the Silver Red - the rarest of the variants as only 15 were made. The Silver Red may just utilize the perfect color combination for this timepiece as the colors support the overall industrial look of the mostly skeleton dial. In addition to the incredible hydro technology around the perimeter with its red color, the dial includes digits 1-5 and 7-12 set against a textured background. The dial maintains some level of simplicity due to skipping the hour hand instead of the hour-colored hydro tube. Hidden amongst the skeleton view of the mechanical movement are a seconds hand and a power indicator to display how much of the 72-hour power reserve remains. Rounding out the watch is the 48mm titanium and black DLC titanium case, which is water resistant to 30m. The HYT Hastroid Silver Red is priced at just over $86,400 USD.

Moon Runner

Intro / Tie-in to Brand
Visual appeal
Technology or mechanical
Rarity and Price

While not a small watch, the HYT Moon Runner Supernova Blue is perfect for anyone who wants to make a statement. Measuring in at 48mm wide and just shy of 22mm thick, this titanium watch has serious wrist presence. The most powerful element of the timepiece is its globe - the Supernova Blue includes a 3D globe front and center. Aside from that globe in the center and the surrounding calendar dates, the basic shape of the Moon Runner mimics the Hastroid. The color scheme of the Supernova Blue looks fantastic, as it requires little imagination to envision the world as blue. The white stands out from the blue background to keep legibility high. Only 27 of these timepieces were made so you'd better get yours before they sell out. The HYT Moon Runner Supernova Blue retails for just over $138,000 USD.