INTRODUCING: The All-New Oris Aquis Collection

I remember early on in my watch collecting days, one of the first real luxury watches (Besides Rolex, cause come on) I encountered “In the Wild” was an Oris Aquis Diver on a green rubber strap. I remember that it was the first time that it clicked with me that there were levels to watchmaking and the quality was palpable. For 2024, released at Watches & Wonders, the brand has completely revamped the Aquis Collection into something even more refined than when I first ran into Oris…

The Aquis Collection for Oris has really, over time anyway, felt like one of the core divers in the sub $5,000 category. And because of that, we haven’t seen much as far as design changes to the overall collection. Sure, there’s been a number of limited editions or completely new models introduced to the collection, but the actual Aquis Diver has remained fairly true-to-form. With this release, Oris has chosen to make the Aquis a little more refined, and really brought the collection back to it’s original focus - A simple, legible, luxury diver that competes with a lot of the big guys without the big guy price tag.

What has changed with the new Oris Aquis Collection?

The short answer is quite a bit, though not every detail may be directly noticeable at first. The overall look and feel of the Oris Aquis has been upgraded from everything to the case being more streamlined, to the indices being polished more clearly, and yes, even the font gets an upgrade. But lets start with the case and bracelet.

The profile of the Aquis has been reworked to be slightly slimmer, with a little more exaggerated lugs to create an overall more ergonomic dynamic. Don’t get me wrong, this is still very obviously an Aquis, it’s just all the more luxurious in look and feel. The lugs have been resculpted and the crown guards a little less dramatic, furthering Oris’ stride into a more luxury case shape in profile. Further, the brand is offering the Aquis in 3 different sizes - A 43.5mm that fits more of the traditional dive watch dimensions, a 41.5mm version for smaller wrists, and a bespoke 36.5mm that takes a more vintage look.

Further, the bracelet has been reworked with a little more broader center link - Allowing for the taper to be more obvious. The Calibre 400 models will feature the brand’s super easy-to-use quick-release adjustment mechanism so that the wearer can quickly swap between the bracelet and strap. Further, the same models will feature Oris’ quick adjust system so the watch can be adjusted if your wrist swells in temperature differentials.

The dial has also seen it’s fair share of redesign. The indices have been reworked to still evoke the essence of the Aquis, but be more legible. This includes some polishing and slight reshaping of the shield shaped indices we know and love. It seems they’ve been beefed up a little bit without being too much, while the alpha-style shape handset has been slimmed down and slightly reshaped. It feels more concise now, pairing with the slimline profile better and dialing in the relationship with each part of the watch.

Further, the font has been reworked to be clearer and bring the overall footprint of the dial text down. Personally, I’m a fan of less text on the dial. With a lot of brands and models it feels like something they add to fill up space and create visual interest, when all it really does is create clutter. Oris’ move to clean that all up and slim it all down is a net positive in my mind.

And Date Enthusiast’s rejoice! Each of the 3 dial colors (Green, Blue, or Black) will feature a matching date window. Further decluttering any distractions on the dial. Each date wheel features a high contrast date against the colored wheel, making it fluid in aesthetic.

Movement Options

One of the cooler things that Oris has done in the past, and is now offering with the updated Aquis Collection, is movement choice. Each model will come with an automatic movement, but the buyer has the option of the Oris 733 - The Sellita-based movement with a modest 38 hour power reserve, or the Oris Calibre 400 - The brand’s in house offering. Obviously there will be a slight price difference, but the Calibre 400 is an all-around high-performance movement developed by the brand itself. It features a whopping 120-hour power reserve, a COSC Certification, and 21 jewels.

Comeback: The Upcycle

Oris has brought a lot to the table with it’s Upcycle model of the Oris Aquis. The Upcycle utilizes PET Plastic to create it’s dial. The result is a “no-two-are-the-same” approach to every single model. But further than that, the Upcycle marks a crossroads of the brand’s real attention to the environment with the Change for the Better and Oris Emission Reduction programs. The Upcycle, when first released, became a hallmark of the brands mission to do better for the planet - While creating products that are both unique and helpful.

The Upcycle returns in 4 models - The 43.5mm will come with the brand’s Calibre 400 discussed above or the option for the less expensive Oris 733, while 2 more automatics are introduced in 41.5mm and 36.5mm with the Oris 733 movement. They’ll also not be limited anymore, so as long as people keep wanting to see the Upcycle, they will keep being produced by the brand.

Oris’ philosophy has long been “Go Your Own Way”. It’s a fitting motto for a brand that has been listening to it’s buyers, and providing options for them. The revamp of the Aquis Collection may not be the “Sexiest” option for the brand to take, but it’s definitely an important one. Gradual, specific, and determined changes are what make so many brands great. Look at the Rolex Submariner, the Omega Speedmaster, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak - Incremental changes to make them better are what drives enthusiasts to them.

I’ve always considered Oris to be a really affordable luxury brand that punches well above it’s weight class. With the Aquis getting all the more attention, one of the brand’s most core collections getting a revamp is is a modern push to just provide the best product they can while still maintaining that bang for your buck when you’re looking to purchase a luxury watch. In that regard, I feel like the updated Aquis Collection is a knock-out-of-the-park for Oris.

How much is the new Oris Aquis?

Depending on the size, bracelet options, and movement, the price for the new Aquis is between 2,450 CHF and 3,700 CHF.