The New Oris Big Crown Pointer Date Calibre 403
This week has seen just about everyone in watch media travel to Dubai for Dubai Watch Week. We’ve seen a couple interesting releases so far, but among the more attainable watches is the all-new Oris Big Crown Pointer Date Calibre 403 - A re-imagined look for one of Oris’ more staple watches - This time with one of the brands In-House engineered pointer date movements.
THE BASICS:
Brand: Oris
Model: Big Crown Pointer Date Calibre 403
Case Material: Stainless Steel
Case Size: 38mm
Water Resistance: 50 meters
Movement: Oris Calibre 403
Movement Specs: Automatic, 28,800 VpH, Built in the Oris Calibre 400
Strap Options: Black Leather Strap
THE JUICE:
The Oris Pointer Date is one of Oris’ oldest and most recognizable models. Dating back to the 30’s, the (typically) pilot’s style watch is easily identifiable by its large centered hand with crescent “pointer” and peripheral date ring that flanks the traditional chapter ring. Additionally, the model has always stapled its signature coin-edge bezel - a fan favorite feature that I personally loved most about the model.
The differences with the Calibre 403 are subtle, but very important. And more-or-less removes (in my opinion anyway) a significant portion of the personality the older mode offers.
For one, the coin-edge bezel is noticeably missing. While the older bezel certain ages the watch a bit, I’ve always found it provided the Pointer Date with some much needed character that smaller pilot watches tend to fore-go. There are brands that have found success offering both - like, for instance, Rolex and the Datejust. Maybe we’ll see Oris take a similar route in the future.
Additionally, in-leu of the crescent shaped pointer date hand tip, Oris has opted for a more straight-forward red-tipped arrow pointer. While I’m not particularly opposed to this change, I can’t help but miss the charm of the old hand. Perhaps in the metal it’ll grow on me, but for now the slimmed down pairing leaves me wanting. In fact, the entire handset gets a more modern update with sword hands instead of the predecessor’s cathedral style hands. This, to me, is a more welcomed change.
Lastly, and arguably the most important update is the movement. Inside the new Big Crown Pointer Date is the Oris Calibre 403 - a modern in-house movement based on the brands pride and joy, the Calibre 400. The model beats at a lovely 28,800 VpH and maintains a very impressive 120 hours of power reserve. The finishing is clean, with blasted bridges and plates, allowing for a more aesthetically pleasing symmetry between the skeleton rotor, and polished balance wheel.
All things considered, this is an attractive release from Oris. As much griping as I’ve done, I can’t help but love this watch. I think perhaps my biggest qualm is that this still belongs to the Pointer Date family. I think that this watch would sit a lot better with myself, and a lot of people in the enthusiast community if it sat in its own collection of watches. I can’t help but feel a lot of the charm was removed from a watch that I heavily identified as a favorite of mine. While I recognize Oris could likely not care less about my opinion on the matter, I can’t help but feel a lot of the charm of the Pointer Date was removed with the Calibre 403, and we’re left with a bit more of a contemporary, albeit slightly dull shell of its predecessor.
How much is the Oris Big Crown Pointer Date Calibre 403?
So far, I have not seen this watch limited to any specific number, and it comes with a modest price tag of $3,400 USD.
You can read more about the watch on the brands website.