12 Best Gradient and Fume Dial Watches
“Is it a blue watch? Is it a white watch? What colour even is it?” These are questions we hear frequently at Wrist Enthusiast HQ when it comes to our Wren Diver One Snow. And it got us thinking, what are the best gradient dial and fumé dial watches? So, we decided to publish this guide to help you navigate the 12 best gradient dial watches available right now on the market. We cover all budgets, complications, styles, and colors, so there’s definitely a watch here for you. Let’s dive right in.
H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Retrograde Seconds Midnight Blue
Price: Approx. $22,500 USD; Material: Stainless Steel; Diameter: 42.8mm; Water Resistance: 120m; Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire.
The Pioneer Collection from H.Moser & Cie is one of their most versatile designs. They say that it’ll go with any thing from a wetsuit to a three-piece suit, and anything in-between. Tradtionally, the Pioneer collection has never offered any of Moser’s fabulous complications. But this watch changed everything. The 30 seconds retrograde complication nestled at 6 o’clock doesn’t interfere with the Pioneer’s sleek looks and minimalistic style, and instead, perfectly complements the sporty and classy feel. Flipping the watch over, the exhibition caseback lets you examine the beautiful HMC 250 calibre in all of its splendour. Whilst the complication and the movement are certainly very impressive, our favourite detail has got to be the invisible Moser logo on the dial, which only becomes apparent at certain angles. This piece retails for $21,900 USD.
Wren Diver One Snow
Price: $965 USD; Material: Stainless Steel; Diameter: 41mm; Water Resistance: 200m; Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire.
It would be criminal to make a guide about the best gradient dial watches and not include our very own Wren Diver One Snow. Yes, we’ll put our hands up and admit that we’re definitely biased here, but we strongly believe that our point still stands. Exhibiting the watch for only the second time at Watch Pro Salon in London just a couple of weeks ago, we really came to realize how much people appreciate value for money in a watch. Offering a high-quality piece at such a low price-point is certainly a challenge, but Craig really wanted to make a watch that punches way above its class. The Diver One Snow retails for $965 USD and is available here on our website.
Studio Underd0g 03 Series Monopusher Salm0n
Price: Approx. $2,150 USD; Material: Stainless Steel; Diameter: 38.5mm; Water Resistance: 30m; Movement: Manual; Crystal: Sapphire.
This year Studio Underd0g have been going from strength to strength, with all their designs receiving a significant upgrade. Their fun and playful collection has seen a very serious and powerful overhaul across the board. Starting with their exclusive collaboration with H. Moser & Cie, the new 03 Series is fabulous addition to their line-up and this ‘Salmon Dial’ is cheeky spin on the trend that has captivated the industry. Whether it is the gorgeous 2-piece dial with its quirky elements or the customised movement, the details are really what make this ‘Assembled in Britain’ watch so special. As one of the few monopusher chronographs at this price point, the 03 Series is in high-demand. It retails for $2,000 USD.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ‘‘Jumbo’’ Extra-Thin 16202XT
Price: $99,300 USD; Material: Titanium; Diameter: 39mm; Water Resistance: 50m; Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire.
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak is the pinnacle of watch collecting for so many. Part of the holy trinity of Genta designs, it is the object of most collectors dreams. Typically famous for the illustrious ‘Grand Tapisserie’ guilloché dial, this Royal Oak shakes things up a bit. The smoked burgundy-red dial and Bulk Metallic Glass (a funky new material that AP have been experimenting with) really catch the eye as light play off them so wonderfully. The titanium case, bracelet, and ultra-thin automatic calibre make for an incredibly light and comfotable wearing experience. Clearly, the stunning looks are there to remind you that you’re actually wearing a watch. At 39mm you must be wondering what is ‘Jumbo’ about this watch. This denomination is a reminder of their watch-making history, where ‘Jumbo’ meant larger than standard dimensions (compared to the 1940s). The AP Royal Oak ‘Jumbo’ Extra-Thin is formidable piece steeped in tradition but also innovation. It is available for $99,300.
Anordain Model 1 Plum Fumé
Price: $3,493 USD; Material: Stainless Steel; Diameter: 38mm; Water Resistance: 50m; Movement: Manual; Crystal: Sapphire.
Watchmaking is not something that jumps to mind when you think of Glasgow in Scotland, but Anordain is a brand who were born and bred there. Famous for their beautfiul smoked enamel dials, the brand is highly regarded and demand for their watches is insane: the wait time for a watch is currently around 2-3 years. In fact, they are the only brand otuside of Japan and Switzerland to produce their own enamel dials in-house. Every watch they produce is assembled by hand by master enamellers and watchmakers. Their attention to detail is on par with some industry titans. Their inspiration for the dial numerals comes from the old Highland maps, really the importance of their Scottish heritage. Powered by Swiss movements, their watches perform to the smae standard as their craftsmanship. They have lots of options for customisation and spec personalisation. The Model 1 Fumé in Medium starts at $3,499 USD with the SW-210m.
Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400
Price: $3,700 USD; Material: Stainless Steel; Diameter: 43.5mm; Water Resistance: 300m; Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire.
The Oris Aquis Date is a beast of dive watch. Equipped with the Calibre 400, Oris' in-house movement, this piece is definitely contends with divers from other well known brands. Buitt to resist absolutely anything on land or under the sea can throw at it, the Aquis Date is also a high-performer when it comes to power-reserve: you can leave it on the nightstand for 5 days and it'll still be running. To balance out these rugged and utiliatrian features, the beautiful dial and exhibition case back give it a bit of a classir feel. This Aquis Date retails for$3,700 USD.
Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 6000m Summer Blue Ultra Deep
Price: $13,000 USD; Material: Stainless Steel; Diameter: 45.4mm; Water Resistance: 6000m; Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire.
For the 75th anniversary of the Seamaster collection, Omega released a whole new collection of pieces in ‘Summer Blue’, with the specific hue of each model indicating how deep it can go. Launched in 2019, the Planet Ocean 6000m was launched as the ‘every-day’ version of their Ultra-Deep concept watch which reached the deepest point of the 5 oceans. This ultra-capable and hefty piece isn’t just an indestructible lump of steel. The dial, much like the depths of the seas, is full of surprises. Upon closer inspection, the sombre dial reveals a discreet gradient and some beautiful texture, mimicking the ocean floor. And now, if you turn the lights out, a small detail becomes visible: a diagram of the Marianas Trench with the inscription ‘Omega was Here!’. Combining the serious and no nonsene spec sheet with some fun and light-hearted elements are the perfect way to pay tribute to the Seamaster’s history. This watch is available at retail for $13,000.
Christopher Ward The Twelve (Ti)
Price: $1,895 USD; Material: Titanium; Diameter: 40mm; Water Resistance: 100m; Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire.
When it was first released, the Twelve from Christopher Ward sent shockwaves through the watch world: an integrated-bracelet sports watch for just over $1,000 USD was an almost un-imaginable concept for many. The brand have been redefinign what value for money means when we talk about Swiss-Made watches. You can imagine the surpise when they released a titanium version too, adding in a SW-300 movement, making it even slimmer than the steel variation. The details on this piece are just insane, whether it is the textured dial, the fabulous case finishing, or the beautifully finished movement. The Twelve comes in variety of sizes, colours, and materials so you can definitely find one that suits you just right. And if that’s not enough to convince, CW have a fabulous selection of colour-matched straps just for the Twelve. This piece can be purchased online for $1,895 USD.
Read our review of the Christopher Ward The Twelve Titanium here.
Longines Spirit Flyback
Price: $6,500 USD; Material: Stainless Steel and Pink Gold; Diameter: 42mm; Water Resistance: 100m; Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire.
For many Longines has been the brand of 2024, releasing absolute killers each time they brought out a new piece. And this new Spirit Flyback Chronograph is no different. Whilst two-tone watches can be a bit hit-and-miss for most people, we really think that Longines have nailed it on the head with this one. There’s just enough Pink Gold accents to complement the chocolate dial and matching leather strap, without making it feel like too much bling. Sporting the classic flyback chronograph function the heritage and pedigree that Longines’ pilots watches have can really be felt through this piece: the legibility is crystal clear and every element has a function. Oozing both elegance and practicality, this Longines Spirit Flyback retails for $6,500 USD.
Spinnnaker Croft Mid-Size Automatic
Price: $350 USD; Material: Stainless Steel; Diameter: 40mm; Water Resistance: 150m; Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire.
And now we’re off to the complete opposite of the price spectrum with the Spinnaker Croft Mid-Size Automatic. Named after Robert Croft, the first man to free-dive past 200ft, this divers watch is the perfect entry piece. The vintage inspired design sports some wonderful faux-tina, strong lume, and a beautiful textured dial that captivates your attention. Powered by the NH35 automatic calibre from Seiko this piece will be a reliable companion for any adventure. Coming on both a metal bracelet or a strap, and in many dial colors, there one for everyone. This deep blue one really caught our eye and it retails for $350 USD.
Seiko Presage Cocktail Time ‘Negroni’ SRPE41
Price: $425 USD; Material: Stainless Steel; Diameter: 38.5mm; Water Resistance: 50m; Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Mineral.
Sticking with the entry-level prices for a while, Seiko is renowned for its excellent offereing of value for money watches. Inspired by the Skybar in Ginza, Tokyo, and its famous selection of drinks, each model of the Cocktail Time collection represents a particular cocktail they serve. The fractal pattern and gradient create a visual effect that mimics looking at the drink through a crystal glass: Seiko have got it spot on. Finishing off the rest of this brilliant dress watch’s package is a reliable calibre, an extremely wearable case, and a gorgeous leather strap. This ‘Negroni’ retails for***$425 USD***.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Pereptual Calendar
Price: $52,500 USD; Material: Pink Gold; Diameter: 42mm; Water Resistance: 10m; Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire.
We’re ending this list with yet another blue gradient dial watch, but in reality, it is a lot more than just that. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris is one of the brands well recognised designs that was intended for a sportier more adventurous wearer. This particular iteration packs in all of JLC’s pedigree as a watchmaker: their Perpetual Calendar movement is a force to be reckoned with. They claim that it will not need to be adjusted until at least 2100. You can catch a glimpse of the complex mechanical heart through the sapphire caseback. The watch is delivered in a sporty 18 carat Pink Gold case, giving it that luxurious weighted feel to it without looking too outdated. It retails for $52,500 USD.