Hands-On with the new Time + Tide X TAG Heuer Aquaracer Solargraph 'Sundowner'
I would argue that, these days, some of the most exciting releases from watch brands, including the big brands, are the result of collaborations with publications. My guess would be that when a brand collaborates with a watch publication, the publication’s broader exposure to the industry helps the brand get a little more creative, and produce something the community really wants. Some of the notable recent collaborations I have been a fan of are the Hodinkee X Zenith Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar, the Revolution X Atelier Wen Perception Tantalum, and now, the Time + Tide X TAG Heuer Aquaracer Solargraph 'Sundowner' Ref. WBP1181.FN8024. Before its release, I got the chance to get my hands on the new Time + Tide and TAG Heuer collaboration, and I have to say, I was very impressed.
At its core, this collaboration is a new variation of TAG’s Aquaracer Solargraph, first released in 2022. But what I really like is the way Time + Tide incorporated its own identity into the watch to create what might be my favorite Solargraph to date. From the the dial color to the accents, the watch just feels like it came straight from the mind of Time + Tide founder Andrew McUtchen, in a way you often don’t see in brand/blog collabs.
When you go to Time+Tide’s website, you are immediately greeted by the black background theme, white text, and a splash of gold in the form of their article headlines. Time+Tide has been consistent about continuing this theme across their platforms, even into their social media. And luckily this color palette lends itself pretty well on a watch because, Time+Tide and TAG decided use it for the collaboration.
But the watch is definitely more than just taking Time+Tide’s colors and slapping it on an Aquaracer. The black dial has a horizontal line pattern with a nice sunray finish. This black dial is contrasted by applied rose gold indexes, rose gold lumed hands, and a rose gold seconds hands. This sort of finishing reminds me of the gilt dials of vintage Rolexes, but with a much more modern application.
The case is 40mm by 46.5mm lug-to-lug. It is also around 12mm thick with 200 meters of water resistance. The case is made of sandblasted grade 2 titanium, so it is not only light, but has a darker hue than your typical stainless steel watch. This fits the dark them of the watch, but also has the practical effect of making the watch an easy wear. The undirectional dive bezel is also sandblasted titanium and has matching rose gold scale markings. I am a fan of steel bezels on divers (which is pretty rare), and feel similarly about the use of titanium bezels on titanium dive watches.
The TAG Heuer logo is applied in rose gold at 12 o’clock. And, opposite it at 6 o’clock is the Time+Tide logo (also applied and in rose gold). Often in collaborations, the placement of the collaborator’s can be awkward and look out of place. BUt that’s not the case here. Time+Tide’s logo is an anchor, and it just fits seamlessly on a dive watch. Does this mean Time+Tide should only do dive watch collaborations? I won’t make a judgment on that. But, it does make sense…
Beyond the dial, Time+Tide’s logo is also engraved much larger into the caseback. And underneath that caseback sits the Calibre TH50-00 movement. This is a solar powered movement. According to TAG Heuer, one minute of light exposure will power the watch for a full day, with a complete charge after 40 hours of light exposure. This full charge should keep your watch running for a whopping 6 months without any additional light exposure. While the movement is a solar quartz movement, the rechargeable nature of the movement means you won’t have to replace the battery. It’s a very interesting technology that I hope more brands will lean into in the future. Now if only they can get the seconds hand to sweep instead of tick.
The watch comes on an olive green textured NATO-style strap, with a titanium, but rose gold-plated, keeper and pin buckle. The strap is comfortable and high quality, but what you would expect with a NATO strap. I know TAG Heuer offers other variations of the Aquaracer Solargraph with a sandblasted titanium bracelet. So, it would be great if the bracelet was offered as an upgrade for customers that want both strap options.
The watch fits my 6.75 inch wrist pretty well. The 40mm by 46.5mm lug-to-lug. As I say over and over again, lug-to-lug size matters a lot more (at least to me) than diameter. So the fairly short 46.5mm measurement means that even smaller wrists can wear the Aquaracer Solargraph 'Sundowner' without any issues. Additionally, the thin and flexible NATO strap also sizes the watch down quite a bit on the wrist. But at the same time, the protrusions on the sides of the case, along with the 12-sided bezel, makes the watch take a bit more space on the wrist. Not quite the surface area coverage you’d get from a square watch, but moreso than your typical circular watch.
Overall, I don’t really have any complaints about the new Time+Tide X TAG Heuer Aquaracer Solargraph “Sundowner”. It is attractive, offers something new to collectors, while also clearly fitting the identity of Time+Tide. At $3,050 USD I am sure that they will have no problem selling out, and in relatively short order. Orders for the Aquaracer Solargraph “Sundowner” start on November 19, at 3pm EST. Learn more at Time+Tide’s website .
