The 20 Best Watches of 2023 to Bring You into the New Year
It seems like 2023 had more big releases than ever. From the new IWC Ingenieur to the Rolex Daytona Le Mans, there were so many great new watches introduced into the market. For the end of the year, we thought it would be fun to look at 20 of our favorite releases of the year. This list is no way exhaustive, so we would love to hear what your favorite release of the year was. Feel free to throw it in the comments below.
For this article, we thought it would make sense to break down the video into 4 categories. First we’ll start with our five favorite releases from each of the 3 big watch events of the year: Watches & Wonders, Dubai Watch Week and Geneva Watch Days. And then we will do our 5 favorite releases that weren't released during one of these events, because interesting watches are being released all the time. With the parameters set, let’s get going on the best watch releases of 2023.
Watches & Wonders
IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40
We’ll start our best watches of 2023 list with perhaps the most the most hyped released of Watches & Wonders 2023, the IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40. The Ingenieur has come and gone within the IWC lineup since 1955, so why was this release so buzzworthy? Well, with the new Ingenieur, IWC went back to Gerald Genta’s 1976 redesign for design inspiration. So in many ways, you can think of this model as the brand’s answer to the Royal Oak and the Nautilus. And it definitely has the hallmark of a Genta designed watch, with its bezel screws and Nautilus-esque bracelet. The watch also has been slimmed down and improved-upon from the original, making it much more wearable. One of our favorite parts has to be the dial: we would argue that the checkerboard dial is as the Royal Oak’s iconic Grand Tapisserie dial. If you can get your hands on one, the IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 retails for $11,700 USD in stainless steel. You can read our review here.
Tudor Black Bay 54
We would argue that Tudor is willing to do what Rolex won’t by taking chances and making big changes. And the brand did that in spades with the Tudor Black-Bay 54. Collectors have long been clamoring for a sized-down, 37mm Black Bay, and Tudor listened, releasing the Black Bay 54. The Black Bay 54 was modeled after the Tudor Oyster Prince Submariner Ref. 7922 from 1954, which was also 37mm in diameter. Beyond the smaller size, the watch has the typical Black Bay vintage charm, including faux patina and riveted bracelet. Tudor gave us that go anywhere, do anything dive/tool watch with the Black Bay 54 that people of all wrist sizes can appreciate. The Tudor Black-Bay 54 retails for $3,900 USD. You can read our review of the Tudor Black Bay 54 here.
TAG Heuer Carrera Glassbox
Tudor and IWC were not the only brands that decided that 2023 was the year to break into the archives. TAG Heuer also did so with the Carrera Glassbox Chronograph. This watch really has a vintage feel, perhaps due to the “Glassbox” case construction, which was used in some of the earliest Carrera models from the 60s. And what does that mean? The Carrera Glassbox has a domed crystal that extends over the whole case and dial, making the watch bezel-less. And while the watch is very retro-inspired, it is clearly a modern watch. The Glassbox Chrono runs on TAG Heuer’s new TH20-00 automatic chronograph movement, featuring bi-directional winding and 80 hours of power reserve. There are two variations of the Glassbox. One is a vintage black, reverse panda dial configuration, while the other has a modern blue sunburst dial. We really like the both and they both retail for $6,450 USD. You can read our review of the TAG Heuer Carrera Glassbox here.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso has been, and always will be, an icon in the watchmaking industry. And the design, originally released in 1931, has been constantly refined and improved over the years, with numerous different iterations and complications being added to the mix. The Tribute Chronograph, released at Watches & Wonders 2023, was another big hit from the brand. Offered in both steel and gold variations, it truly is a versatile timepiece. Displaying the time on both faces, the secondary dial is skeletonized and includes a chronograph complication. We don’t think we’ve ever seen a JLC with the amount of hype the Reverso Tribute Chronograph has received. And because of this, they are extremely hard to get at both retail and on the secondary market. The Reverso Tribute Chronograph retails for $25,000 USD in steel and $38,800 USD in pink gold. You can read our review of both the steel and gold JLC Reverso Tribute Chronograph here.
Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar 5261R-001
When Patek Philippe Nautilus prices spiked and the watch became almost unobtainable, many turned their attention to the other sporty offering from the brand: the Aquanaut. However, we believe that Aquanaut stands on its own merit as an iconic watch. And the Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar is one of our favorites. While the watch includes an annual calendar complication with day, date, month and moonphase complications, what really drew us to this watch was the light blue dial and strap and rose gold case. It was a color combination that we’ve never seen before on the Aquanaut, and we really love it. And while it is technically part of the women’s Luce collection, at 39.9mm it is definitely a unisex watch in our view. If you can convince your local Patek authorized dealer to sell you one, it retails for $62,000 USD.
Dubai Watch Week
Oris ProPilot X Calibre 400 Laser
This year’s Dubai Watch Week saw more releases than ever before, as the event becomes more and more important within the watch industry. And one of our favorite releases from the 2023 iteration of the event was the Oris ProPilot X Calibre 400 Laser. This watch has quite a few interesting design points, most notably the incredibly unique dial design. In order to create the multicolored dial, Oris used a method never employed before. This technique involved laser cutting the dial to allow light into microscopic pockets on the surface of the dial. The result is optical interference - splitting light into its individual components to give a reflective, rainbow effect. Oh, and did we mention that the rainbow effect is achieved without a single drop of pigment on the titanium dial?
Aside from the spectacular dial, the Laser is at its core an Oris ProPilot X with their 400 Calibre - a strong, automatic movement with a 120-hour power-reserve. At 39mm in diameter and with a titanium case and bracelet, this watch is an incredibly comfortable and easy wear. The Oris ProPilot X Calibre 400 Laser retails for $5,200 USD. You can read our review oof the Oris ProPilot X Caliber 400 Laser here.
MB&F HM11 Architect
We would argue that MB&F’s creations are not only timepieces, but art. And their 2023 release is one of founder Max Busser’s most creative pieces yet. The HM11 Architect takes its inspiration from 1960s-era postmodern architecture. Surrounding the central tourbillon of the watch, there are 4 “rooms” jutting out. These rooms are rotatable, each one with a different function. One room tells the time, another has a thermometer, a third the power reserve, and finally the crown. In order to wind the watch, you rotate the entire case of the watch. This also allows you to place any room you would like front and center. 10 complete rotations of the watch will wind it for 96 hours. So clearly the watch is as technically sound as it is unique. The MB&F HM11 Architect is available in two colorways, one with a blue dial plate, another with a rose gold dial plate. Limited to 25 timepieces each, the MB&F HM11 Architect retails for $230,000 USD. You can read our hands on with the HM11 Architect here.
Frederique Constant Highlife Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon
Frédérique Constant has made a name for itself producing ultra-complicated Swiss made watches at extremely compelling prices. At this year’s Dubai Watch Week they wowed us with a new addition to their Highlife collection. The Highlife Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon not only has a perpetual calendar complication, but a tourbillon as well. Offered in rose gold and with a blue dial and strap, this watch is more than just a showcase of Frederique Constant’s watchmaking prowess: it’s a truly stunning timepiece. The watch runs on the brand’s in-house FC-975 automatic movement and has a respectable 38-hour power reserve. Limited to just 35 pieces, it retails for $48,995 USD. And we have to mention, just a few weeks ago, Frederique Constant announced the Highlife Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon in stainless steel. It is limited to 88 pieces and even more affordable, retailing for $28,995 USD.
H.Moser Streamliner Small-Seconds Microrotor Blue Enamel
In the 3 years since H. Moser & Cie first launched the Streamliner, the watch's 40mm-plus size became one of the only complaints from collectors. Following the industry-wide move to smaller timepieces, Moser released the Streamliner Small Seconds Microrotor Blue Enamel. The watch comes in a stainless steel and on the unique, snake-like bracelet we have come to love on the Streamliner. And at 39mm in diameter it is the first Streamliner under 40mm. But perhaps the most significant aspect of the watch is the movement: the new HMC 500 microrotor movement will hopefully allow Moser to create smaller and thinner timepieces across their collections.
Aside from the technical advancements in the movement, the watch was an aesthetic standout at Dubai Watch Week as well. The blue fume "Grand Feu" enamel dial has been hammered to create a unique texture we have never seen before. When you look at the watch from different angles, it truly is a different experience. The H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Small Seconds Microrotor Blue Enamel retails for $32,900 USD.
Chopard Alpine Eagle Summit Collection
Released in 2019, the Alpine Eagle collection finally gave Chopard a integrated sport watch that could compete with the best of them. Beyond this, the watch showcases a unique dial texture that resembles the iris of an eagle (hence the name). At Dubai Watch Week, Chopard added the Summit Collection to the Alpine Eagle lineup, comprised of 4 new premium models. These 4 pieces are dramatic additions to the lineup, sporting bright gemstones and vibrant gold tone cases. The collection includes a yellow gold piece with pink sapphires, a white gold piece with blue and purple sapphires, a white gold piece with tsavorites, as well as rose gold watch with spessartites. For those of you looking for an alternative to say, the rainbow Daytona, Chopard is giving you 4 great options. While the white gold variation with spessartites retails for $77,600 USD, the other three models are priced at $85,400 USD.
Geneva Watch Days
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic in CarbonGold
Geneva Watch Days may not be as big an event as Watches & Wonders, but we still saw a lot of brands and new releases at the 2023 version. Among are favorites is the new Octo Finissimo Carbongold from Bulgari. Ever since the first Octo Finissimo was released in 2014, Bulgari has been expanding the lineup, creating piece after piece that we love. Noted for their thinness (indeed they are some of the thinnest automatic watches on the market), Bulgari has been experimenting with different alloys and materials for the case. This has allowed many of the Octo Finissimo models to not only be among the thinnest on the market, but among the lightest on the marker. This Octo Finissimo Automatic in Carbongold is light due to being made of carbon, but also has gold marbled into the case and bracelet, creating a unique look. To top it off, the movement, which sports a micro-rotor, and dial have been adorned with rose gold accents that really stand out against the deep black, giving it a futuristic look and feel. This Octo Finissimo Carbongold retails for $26,800 USD.
De Bethune DB28XP Kind of Blue
De Bethune is most well known for their avant-garde, “out there”, design language, and the DB28XP Kind of Blue is no different. Based on the spec sheet alone, the watch doesn’t seem like anything special, especially since it lacks any complications. However, when you see the watch in person, you very quickly realize that this is no ordinary watch. The watch features a heat blued titanium case, as well as an almost completely blue openworked dial. The lugs are also openworked, make the rather large 43mm case appear just a little bit smaller. If something out of 2001: A Space Odyssey is your aesthetic, you should pick up the De Bethune DB28XP Kind of Blue. It is limited to 25 pieces and retails for $125,000 USD.
Greubel Forsey Balancier Convexe S² Carbon
The Greubel-Forsey Balancier Convexe S2 Carbon is a different breed of haute horlogerie altogether. The shape of the case gives this model its name, Convexe, has been engineered for an optimal fit on the wrist. The carbon case also helps to negate the large size of the of the watch (it is 41.5mm in diameter and 14.8mm thick). The piece de resistance of the watch is the movement. The escapement of the movement is actually placed on a 30-degree angle. The engineering behind this is difficult enough, but seeing it displayed on the dial of the watch is incredibly cool. This watch is limited to 22 pieces, and retails around $290,000 USD.
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Chronograph 8Tech
The Girard-Perregaux Laureato not only is a heavy hitter sport watch, but it actually has quite the history. Many don’t realize that the Laureato was first released in 1975, just after the Royal Oak and before the Nautilus. So you can’t call it a retread. Over the years, GP has expanded on the Laureato line to release some very interesting models. One of our favorite recent Laureato releases was released at this year’s Geneva Watch Days. The Laureato Absolute Chronograph 8Tech is incredibly unique. On first look, you’ll notice the lightweight, marbled carbon case. The marbling on each watch is actually unique, due to the random layering process that occurs during manufacturing. And while the watch is incredibly unique and sure to stand out, it is understated at the same time. The almost entirely black watch gives it a stealthy look on the wrist that we really like. The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Chronograph 8Tech retails for $26,700 USD.
Singer Reimagined 1969 Chronograph
If you are looking for something with a little more retro styling, we really like the 1969 Collection from Singer Reimagined. While the brand released two pieces in the collection, we really like the 1969 Chronograph. For starters, the watch has a turtle-esque case shape that reminds us of some of those vintage Seiko divers everyone loves so much. The dials are also matte black with gold detailing. This gilt dial may be more reminiscent of the 1950s, but it still looks great on the 1969 Chronograph. One of the most interesting aspects of the 1969 Chronograph is how the time and chronograph functions are displayed. You might think that the main dial showcases the time, but you’d be wrong. The central hands are the chronograph, while the time is displayed through dual hours and minutes apertures at 6 o’clock. This makes the 1969 Chronograph not only vintage-inspired, but unique in its own right. The Singer Reimagined 1969 Chronograph Retails for $52,000 USD.
Other Releases
Jacob & Co. Casino Roulette Tourbillon
Beyond the three major watch industry events, sometimes brands just release some really cool and noteworthy watches. So we would be remiss not to include some of them here. And one of the coolest watches we have seen released in 2023 is the Jacob & Co. Casino Tourbillon. The highlight of this watch, of course, is the working roulette wheel on the periphery of the dial. While the central time display on the dial is actually rather subdued (especially for Jacob & Co.), surrounding it is a completely functional roulette wheel that takes the watch from standard to something more.
Aside from the working roulette wheel, the timepiece actually is pretty impressive from a technical standpoint. The pusher on the watch controls the roulette wheel; for winding the watch or setting the time, wearers remove the watch and utilizes "bows" or keys on the back of the case. And interestingly, the tourbillon is actually not displayed dial side. You can see the tourbillon cage through the caseback. Limited to 101 pieces made, the Casino Tourbillon retails for $280,000 USD.
Audemars Piguet X Cactus Jack Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked
It seems that every day another watch brand is releasing some sort of collaboration. Whether it be Swatch and Blancpain or Patek Philippe and Tiffany & Co., these collaborations are not always a hit. But Audemars Piguet’s most recent collaboration with Cactus Jack (or Travis Scott) was definitely a hit with us. The AP X Cactus Jack Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked is just incredibly well execeuted. Limited to just 200 timepieces, this watch is actually the first time AP has produced a Royal Oak with a brown ceramic case. Beyond the ceramic case, the dial is the most interesting part of this watch. The dial is completely skeletonized, with all the subdial texts lumed and “handwritten” in Cactus Jack font. Additionally, the moons in the moonphases have been modified to showcase the Cactus Jack dead-eye smiley faces. It is just an incredibly fun and unique piece without being overbearing. This watch is limited to 200 pieces and retails for around $201,000 USD.
Rolex Daytona Le Mans 126529LN
Perhaps the most hyped release this year came from the Crown itself, Rolex. The Daytona Le Mans Ref. 126529LN was Rolex's way of paying homage to the famous Le Mans race that celebrated its 100th anniversary in 2023. The watch is white gold, and features a reverse-panda black dial. The nostalgia continues into the subdial indexes, which are squared like those of the vintage Paul Newman Daytonas. Additionally, this is one of only two Rolex Daytonas featuring a display caseback (the other being the new platinum Daytona). Through the display caseback, you can see Rolex’s brand new Caliver 4132 automatic movement, with 72-hour power reserve. Some suggest that the Le Mans will be a one year, limited production. But Rolex will never say. And because of this conjecture, the Daytona Le Mans is probably the most sought after modern Daytona Currently on the market. It retails for $51,400 USD.
Simon Brette Chronometre Artisans Subscription
Perhaps the most hyped watch in collectors circles is one that the everyday collector might never have heard about. But everyone should know about the Simon Brette Chronometre Artisans Subscription. The Chronometre Artisans Subscription is the first watch released by young master watchmaker Simon Brette. Only 12 lucky collectors had the chance to purchase one of these models, and we had the chance to see it in person. Well, we had the chance to see 3 of the 12 in person. While in Dubai we ran into a friend wearing one of the pieces. He was with the man, Simon Brette, himself, who was wearing two more pieces on his wrist. Rarity aside, the watch is simply beautiful. It is visually stunning with a "dragon scale" dial made from hand-engraved rose gold and technically sound with a complex automatic movement. Simon Brette's movement includes a stop-second mechanism to allow for precision when setting the time. To really up the visual ante, the watch is partially skeletonized, so you can see parts of the movement dial-side.
As if the watch needed to further differentiate itself as unique, the watch's case is made of Zirconium. The watch measures 39mm in diameter and is a slim 10mm thick. Unfortunately, the 12 timepieces are sold out, though the watchmaker promises to release a similar timepiece in a series-style collection soon. So, if you’re interested, get in touch with Simon soon!
Studio Under0g 02 Series Field
The last watch on our list is something on the more affordable side. Studio Underd0g has excelled over the past few years at releasing limited-run timepiece collections and 2023 brought around another such release for the brand. The 02 Series Field is a field watch with the touch of fun and playfulness we have come to expect from the brand. The watch features a full lume dial, which is the result of 7 layers of Super-LumiNova being applied to the dial. The dial also features 2 pins or screws on the dial to join all layers of the sandwich dial and to add an interesting visual component.
While the 02 Series FIeld collection includes 4 dial colorways - pink lemonade, blue, white, and black, the pink lemonade is our favorite. This is because we feel it stands truest to Studio Underd0g’s brand identity. It’s the most fun and “out there” and that’s what we hope to keep on seeing from the brand. Technically, the Studio Underd0g's 02 Series Field runs on a Swiss-made Sellita SW210-1 manual movement with a 42-hour power reserve, so you know its a solid watch. While the collection is currently sold out, we are hoping Studio Underd0g restocks them as they retail for just $900 USD.
