A Week in Japan with the Grand Seiko Tentagraph SLGC001
Posing in front of Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi
Just a few weeks ago, I had the privilege of being invited to Japan by Grand Seiko, to tour their manufacturing facilities and learn more about the brand. In the near future, I will have a more all-encompassing recap on that experience. But in the meantime, I wanted to talk about a watch that I was able to wear and experience for the duration of the trip.
The morning after I arrived in Tokyo, I was brought to the famous (and historic) Seiko House in Ginza to kick off the press trip. Having just reviewed the SLGH005 White Birch just a few weeks prior, I don’t think I could have been more ready for the trip. A few months prior, when I was filling out paperwork, Grand Seiko asked for my wrist size, so I was hoping that I would have the chance to wear something fun from the brand while I was in Japan. And I was definitely not disappointed.
There were 8 members of the press on this trip. 3 of us from the U.S. (all from New York to be exact), one from the U.K. and the rest from various parts of Asia. Since it’s release just last year, I had been wanting to review the Tentagraph, Grand Seiko’s first self-winding, mechanical chronograph. I noticed that the Grand Seiko press team had one Tentagraph to hand out. And it ended up being the watch that they assigned to me for the duration of the trip. I have to say I was pretty happy.
Now, that’s a lot of background into my trip to Japan for what is ostensibly a watch review. But this review is going to be just a little bit different from my typical review. Because, how often do you get to wear a Grand Seiko while in Japan and while visiting the very facility the watch was manufactured in. Not very often. Especially if you’re from the other side of the globe.
Grand Seiko is known for having one of the best press trips in the watch industry, and I can’t say that I disagree with that assessment (especially, after my experience). Starting in Tokyo, we would make our way to Nagano, home to Seiko-Epson, where all the quartz and Spring Drive Grand Seiko timepieces are manufactured, and then up north to Marioka, a city close to Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi, where Grand Seiko’s mechanical timepieces are produced. And while I brought three of my own watches, the Tentagraph was the only piece that graced my wrist for the duration of the trip.
I must say, the Tentagraph was the perfect companion for my Japan travels. The lightweight “high-intensity titanium” case makes it an easy wear, even with a 43mm case diameter. And while I don’t have the exact grade of titanium, it is much higher quality than the grade 2 seen on more affordable titanium timepieces. In addition to making the watch 30% lighter than it would be in stainless steel, the titanium case and bracelet gives the watch a much darker hue, which pairs well with the blue dial.
And in case you’re wondering, yes both the case and bracelet feature Grand Seiko’s signature Zaratsu polishing. But, I will note that the amount of polishing on the Tentagraph is significantly less than that of many of their stainless steel watches, including the White Birch. The lugs are polished on the edges and the bracelet has a polished chamfer on the outside links. But unlike on the White Birch, the sides of the bracelet are brushed, not polished. I believe Grand Seiko chose to do this to give the Tentagraph a more sporty look and feel. It is a racing chronograph made from titanium and with a Tachymeter, so this makes a lot of sense to me.
And I don’t really need to speculate much on this. While I was in Japan, I was able to meet with Junichi Kamata, Grand Seiko’s Design Director and Akira Yoshida, a Designer for Grand Seiko. These two men were responsible for designing the Tentagraph. When I first walked into our session with Mr. Kamata and Mr. Yoshida, Mr. Yoshida knowingly commented that he liked the watch on my wrist. I would only learn shortly thereafter that he designed the watch. Mr. Kamata told me that Grand Seiko’s design ethos is that “each Grand Seiko watch is designed to represent a unique sparkle based on the interplay of light and shadow.” He went on to note that “this idea formed the bases of the Grand Seiko style that originated in 1967[.]” Clearly, everything, including the polishing and brushing is well-thought out. In the case of the Tentagraph, less shadows should be cast on a clearly utilitarian sport watch.
From Left: Junichi Kamata, Grand Seiko’s Design Director and Akira Yoshida, a Designer for Grand Seiko
When you look at the Tentagraph from afar, it might look like your typical blue sunray dial. But it is much more than that. The dial is inspired by Mt. Iwate, which you can actually see from Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi. I visited the studio and it was somewhat of an oasis in the north of Japan. And yes, I was able to look out the floor to ceiling windows and see Mt. Iwate.
Mt. Iwate seen in the distance from Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi
As many are aware, Grand Seiko’s dials are inspired by nature. In conversation with Mr. Kamata, he noted that there were strict rules that he had to adhere to when designing for Grand Seiko. Yet these strict rules created an atmosphere that allowed him to be more creative. When designing dials like the Tentagraph’s he looked at historic texts to help guide him in inspiration, including Saijiki, which is a dictionary of haikus where the poems are arranged by seasons. It was incredibly interesting to hear directly from the designers how they designed the watch that was on my wrist at that time. It gave me greater appreciation for watch design, and the Tentagraph in particular.
Moving beyond its inspiration, the dial is truly stunning. The pattern is more understated than that of other Grand Seiko dials, including the White Birch, but it is incredibly detailed with hundreds, perhaps thousands of tiny contours. This gives depth and visual interest without reducing the chronograph’s legibility. I appreciate Grand Seiko going that extra mile, even if the result is only slightly noticeable from afar.
The Tentagraph runs on the new in-house Caliber 9SC5 hi-beat chronograph movement. It is actually Grand Seiko’s first mechanical chronograph movement, though the brand does have a chronograph that runs on their Spring Drive movement. The movement is finished beautifully, in line with any high-end Swiss manufacture. You can see this in the Côtes de Geneve and the way the movement is opened to give the wearer a view of more of the inner workings of the watch. It is truly a great looking movement.
While I was at the Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi I was able to meet with Mr. Yuya Tanaka. Mr. Tanaka is responsible for helping to design many of Grand Seiko’s mechanical movements, including the Calibers 9SA4 and the 9SA5. The 9SC5 uses the 9SA5 as the base and adds a chronograph module under the dial.
Yuya Tanaka, Grand Seiko Mechanical Movement Designer
Mr. Tanaka discussed the fact that he and his team focus on even the smallest details, including the tactile feel of the winding of the crown. Discussing the 9SA5 in particular, and as compared to the newer 9SA4, Mr. Tanaka explained that he worked with the design team to split the bridge into parts to give the movement a more “dimensional and aesthetically pleasing visual” appeal that the team wanted. This visual appeal extends to the Tentagraph’s 9SC5 movement. And the skeletonized rotor helps to place sole focus on the movement.
Perhaps getting to experience the Tentagraph for a week while in Japan, exploring the sites and Grand Seiko’s manufacture has tainted me a bit. My trip with Grand Seiko will go down as one of the most memorable I have ever been on. But to be able to meet the people responsible for not only creating the Tentagraph, but both Grand Seiko’s mechanical and Spring Drive timepieces gives you a bit of added perspective and appreciation.
And of course, the Tentagraph wears very well, even at its 43mm size. It is 51.5mm and 15.3mm thick. That might seem pretty big, but like many other Grand Seiko models, the lugs curve downwards, giving it a close fit to the wrist. I didn’t have any trouble wearing it on my 6.75 inch wrist.
So, if you are looking for a chronograph that can compete with the best of them, I would definitely recommend the Tentagraph. And if you are looking for one to accompany you on your trip to Japan, well this Grand Seiko can’t be beat. You can pick up the Tentagraph for $13,700 USD.
