Marc Gebauer's 20 Favorite Watches
Marc Gebauer has blazed a trail onto the watch scene over the past couple of years. It’s hard to pinpoint what exactly the German watch collector’s niche really is. He sells watches and other accessories through his website marcgebauer.com. He also lights up Instagram and YouTube with fun but informative content all about watches. I guess you could call him a sort of renaissance man of the watch industry.
We at Wrist Enthusiast have becomes friends with Mr. Gebauer over the past year over our mutual love for watches. That’s why we asked Marc to help us prepare a watch buying guide of his favorite watches. So here are the 20 best men’s watches according to Marc Gebauer.
Omega Speedmaster “Reduced” Ref. 3510.50
Marc Gebauer may be an eccentric guy (and we love that about him), but the first watch on his list of his favorite 20 watches is affordable and a classic. According to Marc, the Omega Speedmaster “Reduced” Ref. 3510.50 is not only the best entry-level watch, but the price is also extremely stable. That means, that when you are ready to let go of the piece, you’ll be able to sell it anywhere and at close to the price you paid for it.
The Omega Speedmaster Reduced may have been discontinued in 2009, but it’s still among our favorites at Wrist Enthusiast. The watch is referred to as “Reduced” not because it is less expensive than most Speedmasters (even though it is), but because of its smaller dimensions. With a 38.5mm case size, this watch is a good 3.5mm narrower than the smallest Speedmasters currently on the market. This brings it in line with other popular chronographs, like the Daytona. You Can find the Omega Speedmaster “Reduced” Ref. 3510.50 on the secondary market in the $3,000 to $4,000 USD price range.
Rolex Datejust 36 with Lapis Lazuli Dial
Exotic stone dials have regained popularity in recent years, as evidenced by the increasing number of brands producing watches with meteorite dials. Marc, however, has his eyes on a rarer stone: Lapis lazuli. Lapis Lazuli a dark blue rock that has been used as a semi-precious stone for thousands of years (Lapis Lazuli artifacts have been dated back to 7570 BC).
The intense blue color of the Lapis lazuli stone makes it perfect for a watch dial, and Rolex has been making watches with Lapis lazuli for years. Marc tells us he is a fan of the 36mm steel Datejust with the Lapis dial. The combination of steel and deep blue goes together well. It is hard to pinpoint an exact price on a steel Datejust with Lapis dial as they are extremely rare. One piece, produced by Rolex in 1974, did go to auction with Phillips in 2019 and sold for CHF 35,000 (around $36,000 USD).
Rolex Submariner Ref. 14060 2 Liner
The Rolex Submariner was the watch that started it all for Mr. Gebauer. But not just any Submariner but the Ref. 14060 2 liner. The watch is referred to as the 2 Liner because It only has two lines of text at 6 o’clock. The first line says “Submariner” with the water resistance below. Modern Submariners are all 4 Liners, with a third line that says “Superlative Chronometer” and a 4th line that says “Officially Certified”.
The Ref. 14060 was the first watch Marc ever bought. We at Wrist Enthusiast think it’s a great entry-level Rolex. There is symmetry in the dial because there is no date at 3 o’clock. And the dial is extremely clean without the extra lines of text. The affordable Rolex Submariner Ref. 14060 sells on the secondary market for between $10,000 USD and $12,000 USD.
Chopard Alpine Eagle Blue
The first steel sports watch on Marc’s list of his 20 favorite watches might not be what you would expect. It is not the Nautilus or Royal Oak, but the Chopard Alpine Eagle. The Alpine Eagle was launched in 2019, but its heritage goes all the way back to 1980. The watch is the successor and evolution of the Chopard St. Moritz. The Alpine Eagle’s bracelet remains pretty close to the original St. Moritz, though the bezel and case have been updated in favor of a more modern look.
Marc notes that he is happy that Chopard finally released a model that does so much right. He tells us that the textured dial, apparently inspired by the iris of an eagle, is a 10 out of 10. He also notes that the details, like the box and certificate, are better made than that on Rolex. Marc states that at $13,400 USD “the Chopard Alpine Eagle is more bang for your buck than a Rolex Datejust 41.”
Rolex GMT-Master Ref. 16700 “Pepsi” Swiss Only Transitional Dial
Rolex first released the GMT-Master in 1954 and the first GMT-Master Pepsi Ref. 1675 was released in 1959. It’s safe to say that the Pepsi has a lot of history. That’s why Marc included the Rolex GMT-Master Ref. 16700 ‘Pepsi’ Swiss only with a transitional dial on his list of best men’s watches. The 16700 was produced from 1988 to 1999, so some of the older models border on vintage territory.
Marc notes that the GMT-Master Ref. 16700 is a great historical watch and we agree as big fans of the Pepsi in general. Marc also likes that the Ref. 16700 can be had for the reasonable price of $15,000 USD on the secondary market.
Vacheron Constantin Overseas REf. 4500 Blue DIal
When you think of steel sport watches, you will likely think of the Vacheron Constantin Overseas. Though it was only released in 1996, decades after the original releases of the sport offerings from Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe, the Overseas has held its own. Indeed, as the Nautilus and Royal Oak have become near impossible to obtain in steel, many have turned to the Overseas as a worthy alternative (which in turned has made it incredibly hard to get).
Beyond just desirability, Marc notes that he thinks the blue sunburst dial of the Overseas is “the most beautiful dial”. He also likes that the watch comes with three straps when purchased and the price is reasonable at $22,500 USD. Plus, Marc sees bigger things for Vacheron in the future. I mean, they are considered a member of the Holy Trinity of Swiss Watchmaking along Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe.
Rolex Daytona Ref. 116589BR with Baguette Diamond Bezel and Sodalite Dial
While this Rolex might look like it has a Lapis lazuli dial, it has a very similar stone called sodalite. This Daytona is one of the rarer watches on Marc’s list of his favorite watches. Marc notes that Rolex Daytona Ref. 116589BR with baguette diamond bezel and sodalite is so rare, that it’s almost impossible to find on the market, especially with this exact configuration.
Let’s face it, the factory-set baguette diamond bezel looks great with the dark blue sodalite dial. The Rolex Daytona Ref. 116589BR comes with a white gold case and currently sells on the secondary market for around $200,000 USD.
Rolex Day-Date Ref. 18238 with Honeycomb Dial
Marc tells us that he thinks Rolex Day-Dates with rare dials will be the next watches to make a jump in market price. That’s why he added one of the rarest Day-Dates to his list of his favorite watches: the Rolex Day-Date Ref. 18238 with Honeycomb dial. The honeycomb effect on the dial is due to hundreds of diamonds and gems set in the honeycomb pattern, which gives the dial a unique sheen. We weren’t able to find any currently for sale on the market, but our guess on price would be around $60,000 USD.
Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 3710
The next watch on Marc’s list is a piece he currently has in his collection, the Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 3710. Marc thinks that this is an odd model in the Nautilus collection. Perhaps it’s due to the peculiar black dial which lacks the horizontal grooves, the Roman Numeral indices, or the power reserve indicator. All of these features are just not seen very often on a Nautilus. But perhaps that’s what gives this peculiar piece its charm. The Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 3710 currently sells on the secondary market for around $100,000 USD.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Tuxedo Ref. 15154BC
Every once and a while, a brand will do something that excited and surprises. For Marc, and we can’t help but agree, that’s the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Tuxedo - An under the radar model that is both incredibly flashy but also somehow reserved. The Royal Oak Tuxedo is covered in factory-set diamonds. In fact, even on the dial side, tiny diamonds are set into the applied indices, and even the handset - Something you rarely see on “Ice-y” watches.
The monochromatic aesthetic is simply a classy look. This is very much a statement watch that knows its audience but really spices it up with the diamonds. Hence the name “Tuxedo”. Its 39mm white gold case houses the AP ultra-thin movement, making it easy to slide under a cuff - another rarity for a sport watch. Marc also feels that the Tuxedo is an incredibly undervalued AP, featuring both factory-set diamonds and being a Royal Oak you can pretty easily get your hands on at roughly $115,000 USD.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Ref. 14789Ba
The second Audemars Piguet on Marc’s list (he’s a big fan of the Royal Oak) is the Royal Oak Ref 14789BA. The solid gold model is an extremely rare Royal Oak that is among some of the first Skeleton Dial Royal Oak’s that the brand ever made. It measures in at a 39mm and features a very open-worked dial that’s hand-finished and includes diamonds on the handset (Is this a trend Marc?). We’ve covered Skeleton Dial watches pretty extensively, but this is one Marc brought to our attention - And we’re glad he did. You can find one for around $550,000 USD.
“This is a dream watch a lot of people don’t know about. True art on the wrist.”
-Marc Gebauer
Patek Philippe Aquanaut Advance Research Ref. 5650G
When we were discussing this list with Marc, and he was talking about the Patek Philippe Aquanaut Advanced Research, he came up with arguably the best description of it I’ve ever heard - He said “It’s the Terminator.” And… It truly is.
The 40.8mm White Gold case houses the Caliber 324 S C FUS Mechanical “Dual Time” movement featuring a number of innovations. Since this is the brand’s premier Travel Time movement, Patek Philippe has opened up a large section of the dial to showcase its steel “Flexible” Mechanism that allows the wearer to set the second time zone with the two pushers on the side of the case. It’s truly unlike anything Patek Philippe has released before, and it’s one of our favorite models here at Wrist Enthusiast too! The Aquanaut Advanced Research isn’t exactly widely available, as it was extremely limited, but you can find them on the secondary market for around $650,000 USD.
Omega Speedmaster Alaska Project
Of course, the second Speedmaster on the list is the always chill (no pun intended) Omega Speedmaster Alaska Project. In fact, Marc loves it so much he’s actually added one to his own collection - Particularly because of how much he loves the inverted dial.
The Alaska Project was first introduced at Baselworld in 2008 and has been one of the hottest collector watches on the market. Prices for the Alaska Project have been slowly climbing over the years because it’s becoming less and less available on the secondary market. Obviously, the watch is easily identifiable by its large (and removable) aluminum housing that was designed to shield the watch from the elements of the Alaskan treks. The Omega Speedmaster Alaska Project is truly a feat of engineering designed for any hardcore explorer. It rightfully belongs on this list. Price on the secondary has definitely increased lately, with the Alaska Project running around $26,000 USD.
Richard Mille Ref. RM 52-02 Pharrell Williams
The Richard Mille RM 52-02 Pharrell Williams is Marc’s grail watch - And we can’t help but completely agree. Pharrell is a known avid sci-fi fan, and even references Star Trek on his record label. And to be completely fair, the watch is absolutely bonkers both visually, and mechanically.
For starters, the case is made of a proprietary Richard Mille alloy that blends Titanium and Ceramic - Aptly called “Cermet”. It makes the watch incredibly light, but also very hard - which is important for the size and shape of Richard Mille watches. The dial plate is covered in Aventurine glass that diamond dusted to look like stars, but equally dark - almost like the void of space (who would have thunk?") Dial side, there’s an astronaut made out of grade 5 Titanium with a gold visor enamelled and hand painted to look like Mars. Additionally, the helmet features two cameras on either side that are adorned with diamonds and black sapphires (an often overlooked feature of the RM 52-02). Peaking underneath the helmet is a sizeable 10.9mm Tourbillon.
The movement itself is a feat of technical engineering. The movement itself has been created with even things like the rotation angle of the barrel being at 20 degrees to optimize it’s motion. Even the barrel rotation speed was adjusted to 6 rotations instead of 7.5 to prevent the possibility of decreased performance.
Overall, the watch is a work of art, and a technical masterpiece. We at Wrist Enthusiast are huge sci-fi nerds, so we can identify with Marc’s sentiment that this is an absolute grail even at its whopping $1,100,000 USD price tag.
Patek Philippe Celestial Ref. 6104/1G-001 on Metal Strap
While Patek Philippe may be best known for the Nautilus, it’s the brand’s grand complications that showcase its true innovation. The white gold Patek Philippe Celestial Ref. 6104/1G-001 includes a sky chart, phases and orbit of the Moon, time of meridian passage of Sirius and of the moon, sapphire-crystal disks for sky background and moon phases, and a transparent sapphire-crystal disk for sky chart and Milky Way. Does a watch need all of these celestial complications? Probably not, but it’s very cool.
The Celestial Ref. 6104/1G-001 also happens to be Marc’s second grail watch (particularly on a metal bracelet). You can find it on the secondary market for the sky-high (pun-intended) price of $800,000 USD.
IWC x Porsche Design Ref. IW3551
Marc wanted a watch that expressed his German heritage on his list of watches. For that, he chose the IWC collaboration with Porsche Design Ref. IW3551. German Bauhaus design is defined by functional shapes, simple color schemes, holistic design, and basic industrial materials like concrete, steel, and glass (or in the case of this watch, titanium). We agree with Marc that this IWC and Porsche collab fits that mold to a T.
Marc tells us that “all about the watch is German.” He also notes that “the feeling of the light titanium, the compass, and the moonphase are all very technical.” Marc personally owns the IW3551 and wears it when he is in Africa opening fountains and schools. The IW3551 is available on the secondary market for around $4,000 USD.
Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711 Emerald with White Dial
One of the watches that Marc had in rotation in the past is the Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711 with Emerald’s and a white dial. This is an extremely rare watch, as it’s believed only 5 were made and only for the Emirates. Having the watch personally, Marc says the white dial matches the Emerald’s perfectly, and it’s truly a sight to behold. As popular as the Nautilus is, its fun to see a lesser known and rarer model make the list. With how rare this watch is, it’s difficult to put a price tag on it, but we’ve seen it sell north of $600,000 USD.
Rolex Daytona Ref. 116598SACO
After seeing the Rolex Daytona Ref. 116598SACO on the wrist of Nicolas Cage, Marc knew he had to have it. So he went out and got it. This particular model is such an odd release from the typically conservative Rolex brand, but it’s a watch you have to see in person to truly appreciate. The Leopard theme is so out of left field, that this particular Daytona is actually quite charming. The leopard print dial utilizes gold subdials and diamond indices and matches the strap, and the lugs have been reconfigured to house 3 seperate links of factory-set diamonds.
For someone as eccentric as Marc, it’s no wonder he vibed with “The Most Controversial Rolex In The World”. We’re here for it. You can pick up the Rolex Daytona Ref. 116598SACO for around $158,000 USD on the secondary market.
F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain on Bracelet
One brand that enthusiasts aboslutely have for a “Dream” grail, is an F.P. Journe. Journe is a Watchmaker’s Watchmaker and truly has an eye for beauty, but also innovation. So naturally, Marc has included the F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain on the bracelet. Marc had the chance to buy one back in the day and didn’t buy it so it’s on his list of “the ones that got away”.
This particular model is extremely rare. The platinum case houses Journe’s signature Constant Force Tourbillon - which is beautiful enough as it is - but further, the dial is made out of a jade material. What results is an “Ethereal green” tone that plays with light differently than any watch we’ve ever seen. The watch is so rare in fact, that the last time we saw this model was at auction where it sold for almost $155,000 USD.
Tudor Royal Lapis Lazuli Dial
The last watch on Marc’s list is the Tudor Royal Lapis Lazuli Dial. A notoriously elusive watch. So elusive - in fact - that many claim the watch doesn’t actually exist, or was created with an after-market dial. The Lapis Lazuli dial was arguably most well known in the Rolex Day-Date’s of old, but it’s highly likely that Tudor made a few references of it’s own - As they were the sister brand offering slightly more affordable “versions” of Rolex models.
You tell us, does this Tudor Royal Lapis Lazuli exist? As Marc says about it, “Anything is Possible”.
