51 Best Military Watches from Affordable to Luxury
The modern-day wristwatch was a distinct deviation from the pocket watches of the late 1800’s and early 1900’s. Truthfully, the catalyst for watches to undergo the change from pocket to wrist was the early 20th century military landscape. While watches have evolved significantly since then, the original “military watch” design is still deeply revered both for its place in history and its often powerfully simple aesthetic. To that end, we want to walk through some of our absolute favorites.
To avoid shooting at a moving target, though, let's set some parameters about what a military watch actually means. While this genre of watch has splintered into many different subcategories, there are a few characteristics that most experts agree make up a quintessential military watch:
1. Durability. As anyone in the Armed Forces knows, you must always expect the unexpected. A flimsy or delicate timepiece will never do for a soldier.
2. Similarly, Water Resistance. Those in the Armed Forces cannot afford for their watch to stop running if they are caught in a rainstorm or need to enter a body of water as part of their mission.
3. Reliability. This one is fairly obvious as well - a soldier's watch must keep ticking no matter what.
4. A dark-colored dial - usually dark green, black, charcoal, or navy. This is to effectively camouflage the timepiece and help it blend in with the soldier's uniform.
5. Luminescence. The numbers or indices on the dial are not only illuminated but they are also usually designed in a bright color in stark opposition to the dark dial. The contrast along with the luminosity allows a soldier to easily read the time in any light.
Now that we know what a military watch actually is, let's look at our favorites across the industry.
Rolex Submariner
Price: $10,250 USD; Case: Steel; Water Resistance: 100m-300m depending on year; Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire.
Not much introduction or commentary needed here; one of the most popular wristwatches in history is the Rolex Submariner. If you ask a dozen watch enthusiasts what their favorite watch is, more than likely at least 1 will say a Submariner. The Submariner was released in the early 1950's and has been a dominating force in the watch industry since then. There are a myriad of Submariner dial / bezel combinations so not all will fit the military watch motif. That being said, Rolex absolutely brings its accuracy and durability to the table in every Submariner. The Retail Price is $10,950 USD.
Rolex Explorer II
Price: $9,650 USD; Case: "Oystersteel," 42mm; Water Resistance: 100m; Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire.
From the Kings of Swiss watches comes a more straightforward timepiece than the Submariner: the Explorer II. In one of the lowest-priced Rolex watches, one can find all of the major military watch attributes. The watch possesses the durability and accuracy for which Rolex is known. And the black dial variation contains the dark dial / light-colored indices combination with excellent luminosity. Add in a 24-hour hand and 24-hour markers around the bezel and you've got a phenomenal military watch contender. The Rolex Explorer II retails for $9,650 USD.
Breitling Navitimer B01
Price: $9,400 USD; Case: Stainless Steel, 46mm; Water Resistance: 30m (3 bar); Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire.
Sometimes a watch masterfully blends together attributes of a military watch and a pilot watch. One such watch is the Breitling Navitimer B01. The B01 excels in its complexities which includes a chronograph and sun compass. With an impressive 47 jewels and a power reserve of 70 hours, this timepiece ticks as fiercely as the jet engines flown by the pilots and airmen who wear it. The dial design on the B01 is not simple but it will turn heads because of its iconic nature and its powerful wrist presence. This Swiss Made powerhouse retails for $9,400 USD.
Breitling Avenger Night Mission
Price: $6,100 USD; Case: DLC-Coated Titanium, 45mm; Water Resistance: 300m (1,000 feet); Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Cambered Sapphire.
Another phenomenal blend between a military and pilot watch from Breitling, the Avenger Night Mission is a tough watch for tough people, and one of the best tactical watches on the market. With this timepiece, Breitling delivers a watch heavily influenced by military design; from the Arabic numerals akin to stenciled aircraft carrier deck numbers to the military green color (also available in plain black). The Avenger utilizes titanium to keep the timepiece lightweight. 25 jewels and a power reserve of 48 hours coupled with 300m of water resistance will keep this watch ticking regardless of what life throws at it. Breitling’s Avenger Night Mission retails for $6,100 USD.
Breitling Chronospace Military
Price: $6,200 USD; Case: DLC-Coated Stainless Steel, 46mm; Water Resistance: 50m (5 bars); Movement: SuperQuartz with Ana-Digi Display; Crystal: Cambered Sapphire.
Breitling is one of the only brands with 3 entries on this list and each of their watches is vastly different from the other. The Chronospace Military watch combines the tradition of an analog dial with the technical prowess of a digital display. Despite a significant amount of information on the dial, Breitling is able to streamline the appearance to keep it surprisingly simple. With the large 3 and 9 Arabic numerals, along with the iconic Breitling logo in the center and on the opposite end of the seconds hand, this watch has a strong appearance. If you’re looking for a Swiss Made watch with digital functions, but that also retains the analog functionality/look (even if you have to change the battery) – this is the watch for you. It retails for $6,200 USD.
Oris ProPilot Altimeter
Price: $6,500 USD; Case: Carbon Fiber with Titanium, 47mm; Water Resistance: 100m (10 bars); Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire.
With the ProPilot Altimeter, Oris has released a watch that walks the line between pilot watch and military watch (though the altimeter tips the scales slightly toward pilot watch). The watch's two crowns (the second of which controls the altimeter), titanium bezel, and the pops of yellow and red on the dial from the altimeter all combine for a strong wrist presence. A matte black dial allows the indices, numbers, and altimeter to command the wearer's attention on the dial. And its green strap rounds out the dark, militaristic feel the watch has.
Add in Oris' Calibre 793 with a 56-hour power reserve and a carbon fiber case with titanium accents, and you've got a winning combination. At 47mm, the Altimeter has a large case size but the watch's carbon material allows it to weigh in at just 98 grams. Oris’ ProPilot Altimeter retails for $6,500 USD.
Oris Big Crown Pointer Date
Price: $2,150 USD; Case: Stainless Steel, 40mm; Water Resistance: 50m (5 bars); Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire.
While the Oris Big Crown Pointer Date may at first glance seem like a simple military watch, it holds a secret when observers look a little closer. Instead of utilizing a date window, the watch identifies the date by a thin red hand pointing at small numbers around the perimeter of the dial. The absence of a date window is a huge selling point to those who prefer an uninterrupted dial. Couple that with a simple bezel and you've got a timepiece that is easy on the eyes yet able to hold its own on the battlefield. With a solid black dial and a retail price tag of $2,150 USD, this Swiss Made military watch is an excellent value.
Casio G-Shock GW6900-1
Price: $99 USD; Case: Resin, 41m; Water Resistance: 200m (20 bars); Movement: Solar-Powered Quartz; Crystal: Mineral.
You might not think an under $100 digital watch would be perhaps the most worn watch among those currently in the military worldwide, but there’s a great reason why this is the case. The Casio G-Shock GW6900 is incredibly rugged and durable (as are all G-Shocks). It also runs on a reliable solar powered quartz movement and boasts a litany of features, including atomic timekeeping, countdown timer, world time with 31 time zones, 1/100-second stopwatch, alarms, and annual calendar. That’s a lot of functionality and reliability at an incredibly affordable price-tag. You can pick up the Casio G-Sshock GW6900-1 for $199 USD .
Panerai Radiomir Quaranta
Price: $6,000 USD; Case: Polished Steel, 40mm; Water Resistance: 30m (3 bars); Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire.
All of the watches we've discussed so far are relatively modern in their design. We now look to a timepiece that holds a vintage charm: the Panerai Radiomir Quaranta. This 40mm beauty is available with a black, green, or dark blue dial in keeping with the military theme. The watch has a classy feel when paired with Panerai's alligator black strap.
From a technical standpoint, the 23 jewels, 3 day power reserve, and Incabloc anti-shock technology keep this timepiece ticking consistently. The solid-colored dial is very simple and includes 4 distinguishing features: the 12/6 numerals at the top/bottom of the dial and a second hand and date window at the 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock positions respectively. The Radiomir Quaranta retails for $6,000 USD.
IWC Pilot's Watch Mark XX
Price: $5,400 CHF (Approximately $6,100 USD); Case: Stainless Steel, 40mm; Water Resistance: 100m (10 bars); Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire.
While branded as a pilot's watch, the Mark XX is a classic military timepiece that checks all the boxes in a simple package. Instead of some modern-day finishes, the Mark XX simply displays the time and date on an uncluttered dial. The Arabic numbers of 1-11 are in keeping with the quintessential military watch design.
A little-known fact about this watch is that it is actually the sequel to the Mark 11 watch IWC created in 1948 for the British Royal Air Force. This watch, much like its predecessor, is fully committed to providing wearers with a simple timekeeping experience in a "form over flashy fashion" approach. The IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XX retails for approximately $6,100 USD.
IWC Big Pilot
Price: $13,200 USD; Case: Stainless Steel, 46.2mm; Water Resistance: 60m (6 bars); Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire.
In its second watch on this list, IWC keeps with a simple military feel but with a slightly updated design (and, of course, a bigger size). The simple Arabic numbers still remain but IWC has added a small subdial at the 3 o'clock position to represent the 7-day power reserve. The date window then moved to the 6 o'clock position.
With the Big Pilot's watch, IWC has produced the perfect modern update to the classic military watch designed for aviators. To mesh with buyer preferences, the watch has both a black and a green dial variation available. The leather straps with the rivets included complete the ensemble, at a retail price of approximately $13,200 USD.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Military Dial
Price: these are only available on the grey market and go for about $28k; Case: Stainless Steel, 36mm; Water Resistance: 50m; Movement: Automatic
Tracking down an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Military Dial watch is no easy task today; however, if you're a fan - it's worth it. Manufactured in 1999-2000, this watch is affectionately called "Military" because of the large white, block Arabic numerals around the perimeter of the dial. Contrast those against the solid black dial and you have a classic military combination.
This watch is for you if you love the iconic octagonal shape of the Royal Oak, if you love the way the dials reflect the "Royal Oaks" logo, or if you want a military watch with a smaller, 36mm diameter. The AP Military watch has all that and more - now you just have to find one. The Royal Oak Military Dial is available on the grey market and usually sell for around $28,000 USD.
Zodiac Super Sea Wolf
Price: $1,295 - $1,895; Case: Stainless Steel, 39mm; Water Resistance: 200m (20 ATM); Movement: Automatic.
The Zodiac Super Sea Wolf, Skin Diver pays homage to the original Sea Wolf from 70 years ago with a vintage-inspired design dedicated to the US armed forces. Available today in 4 colorways with 2 more on the way this fall, the Super Sea Wolf is a unique entry on the list because of the numeral design. The timepiece has 4 digits on it - 3, 6, 9, and 12 - and they are displayed on triangles at the appropriate dial locations. Truth be told, they give the appearance of shark teeth and provide the watch a subtle tough edge. All 6 colorways can fit the military watch motif and they retail for $1,295 - $1,895 USD depending on which one you select.
Longines Spirit Zulu Time
Price: $3,150; Case: Stainless Steel, 39mm; Water Resistance: 100m; Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire.
Many see the goal of a military watch to be present as much information as possible yet in the simplest possible packaging. With the Longines Spirit Zulu Time, it appears that goal is met with flying colors. The Zulu provides 12-hour markers on the dial and 24-hour markers on the bezel, with a date window at the 6 o'clock mark. This watch adds a GMT to help the wearer track an alternate time zone without much added visual complexity. Zulu offers 3 basic colorways which are presented with a variety of strap combinations. With a 72-hour power reserve, the $3,150 USD retail is a great value.
Longines Conquest
Price: Varies Between $825 - $3,650; Case: Stainless Steel, Multiple Sizes from 29.5mm to 42mm; Water Resistance: 100m (10 bars); Movement: Available in Quartz or Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire.
It's 1954. That's when Longines released the first iteration of the Conquest watch. The Conquest line is a collection full of choices but our favorite are the 2023 Automatic models. All of the Conquest models retain a very simple style. And yes - that style meshes well with our military watch theme.
The 2023 models include a sunray dial in 5 colorways as well as applied indices featuring Swiss Super-LumiNova. To avoid distractions from the sunray effect, the dial is only briefly interrupted by the Longines logo, Conquest Automatic model name, and the "Swiss Made" indication. The Conquest is the perfect model to serve the purpose of a military watch while still remaining one of your boardroom favorites. Depending on your choice of Quartz vs. Automatic and colorways, the retail ranges from $825 - $3,650 USD depending on configuration.
Longines Avigation Watch Type A
Price: $3,900; Case: Stainless Steel, 41mm; Water Resistance: 30m; Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire.
While this is our third entry from Longines, it is 100% different than the prior entries. In fact, it's probably the most unique timepiece we've discussed so far. On its surface, the Avigation dial is relatively simple: it's a solid black dial with bold Arabic numerals around the perimeter and two subdials at the 12 and 6 o'clock positions. The words "Longines" and "Automatic" appear in vintage font and a date window at 6 p.m.
Where the Avigation differs from a typical watch is its angle. The off-kilter approach makes the watch unique - the watch's face is rotated to the right so that the 10 o'clock hour is actually at the 12 position and the 12 o'clock hour is at the 2 position, making it a superb tool in the cockpit. If you're looking for a watch that will turn heads (including yours to read the time) - this is the watch for you. And it retails for just $3,900 USD.
Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Military
Price: Approx. $3,900; Case: Matte Black Ceramic, 42mm; Water Resistance: 100m; Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire.
From one unique watch to another, this beauty from Bell & Ross gives wearers a classic B&R "Instruments" design but in a military style. The square case is not clunky as the edges only stick out slightly from the strap. On the dial itself, you'll find big, bold Arabic numerals at the 3-6-9-12 marks as well as the B&R logo. The dark green color is a fitting touch that really gives it a military "feel." This timepiece looks great in both the included rubber and synthetic canvas straps.
he BR 03-92 Military retails for $3,900 USD.
Bell & Ross BR V2-92 Military
Price: $3,300; Case: Satin-Polished Steel, 41mm; Water Resistance: 100m; Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire.
This timepiece is about as different as possible from the prior Bell & Ross entry. Aside from utilizing the same logo and similar bold Arabic numbers at the 3-6-9-12 marks, not much else is the same. The V2-92 Military utilizes a polished steel round case in a popular 41mm size. While this watch does embody some common military watch elements, it is genre-defying in that it also uses a diving-style bi-directional rotating steel bezel. The black aluminum ring in the bezel and the 60-minute scale will feel familiar to fans of dive watches. Subtley is supreme on the BR V2-92, as the numerals, indices, and hands have a green tint to them. Between those, the dial, and the elastic canvas strap, the watch has multiple hues of green and they coordinate perfectly. Did we mention that the second hand mimics an arrow too? The V2-92 retails at $3,300 USD.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Navy SEALS Automatic Watch
Price: Approx. $8,300 - $9,300; Case: Stainless Steel, 42mm; Water Resistance: 300m; Movement: Automatic.
Just over a decade old, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Navy SEALS watch packs a punch. This is a limited-edition timepiece with only 1500 made, so they are rare and desirable. Wearing this watch makes the wearer feel like a Navy SEAL, as the white stencil-style Arabic numerals have a powerful presence on the solid black dial and ceramic bezel. Deciding to buy one of the Navy SEALS edition watches isn't the hard part - the hard part is finding one. A watch with solid wrist presence like this has a tendency to stay in collections for the long-term. Typically, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Navy SEALS sells on the grey market for around $8,300 - $9,300 USD.
Tudor Ranger
Price: $2,875 - $3,200; Case: Stainless Steel, 39mm; Water Resistance: 100m; Movement: Automatic.; Crystal: Sapphire.
Last year, Tudor commemorated the 70th anniversary of the British North Greenland Expedition with the release of the Ranger watch model. The Ranger is a perfect military watch; a solid black dial with cream-colored Arabic numbers at the 3-6-9-12 marks. While Tudor only produces 1 colorway for the Ranger, there are 3 possible straps to give color variety. With the Ranger, Tudor prides itself on making a tough timepiece on the inside - not just with the military exterior. The Manufacture Calibre MT5402 movement utilizes variable-inertia balance with two points of fixation to the bridge. And with 70 hours of power reserve, it ticks for days. It retails for $2,875 - $3,200 USD depending on bracelet vs. strap selection.
Tudor Pelagos FXD
Price: $4,100; Case: Titanium, 42mm; Water Resistance: 200m; Movement: Automatic.; Crystal: Sapphire.
Sometimes a dive watch ends up being an epic military watch as well; such is the case for the Tudor Pelagos FXD. The FXD is 100% a dive watch - it has features such as water resistance to 200m and a bidirectional rotating bezel with retrograde graduation. The Pelagos FXD was created as a collaboration with the Marine nationale (French Navy), so it is a true military watch. As a feature upgrade over entry-level competitors, the case and bezel are made of titanium. The FXD only has a blue colorway but cousins in the FHD collection offer black. Similar to the Ranger, the Manufacture Calibre 5602 in the FXD has a bidirectional rotor system and a power reserve of 70 hours. The Pelagos FXD retails for $4,100 USD.
Glashutte Original SeaQ Panorama Date
Price: $11,500; Case: Stainless Steel, 43.2mm; Water Resistance: 300m (30 bars); Movement: Automatic.; Crystal: Sapphire.
Who says that a practical military watch can't also have a gorgeous appearance? That's the case with the Glashutte Original SeaQ Panorama Date. Hailing from their Specialist collection, the Arabic numbers are in clean font and are positioned at the 2, 6, 8, 10, and 12 marks. The panoramic date at the 4 o'clock mark shows the date in a wide format. And as an added surprise, the blue, green, and grey dials are in the sunburst style. The SeaQ is not just a "pretty face" though; Glashutte uses its Calibre 36-13 movement to keep the timepiece ticking for a whopping 100 hours. With 5 colorway variations which include the addition of red gold, , the retail price ranges from $11,500 to $24,500 USD.
Bremont Argonaut
Price: $4,295; Case: Steel, 42mm; Water Resistance: 300m; Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire.
Another watch paying homage to naval forces is the Bremont Argonaut. The Argonaut was created to commemorate Bremont being the first watch brand to sign the UK's Armed Forces Covenant in 2019. Upon examining the Argonaut, the first thing you'll notice is the addition of the second crown - the first model we've discussed thus far to have one. The first crown at the 2 mark sets the time on the watch, while the second crown at the 4 mark controls the internal rotating bezel.
In their attempt to keep in the naval theme, Bremont makes this model of the Argonaut in bronze. The stark contrast between the bronze and the black metal dial is a bold move - as are the solid Arabic numbers at 6, 9, and 12. The Argonaut retails at $4,295 USD.
Breguet Type XX Chronograph
Price: $18,000; Case: Steel, 42mm; Water Resistance: 100m (10 bars); Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire
From luxury watchmaker Breguet comes a luxury military watch. This collection is 70 years old, though the latest iteration has been revamped and redesigned. The "Breguet" logo in elegant scripted font is not the only upscale touch on this watch. 34 jewels power this automatic movement - a movement that includes 339 total components. And as the icing on the cake, the crown mimics the shape of a diamond. A type 20 flyback chronograph, this timepiece is perfect for pilots. The solid black dial matches the black strap and the Arabic numerals pop nicely in light green. The Type XX Chronograph retails at $18,000 USD.
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms
Price: $15,300 USD – Available to purchase in a retail location. Grey market selections range from $9k - $26k USD; Case: Titanium, 47mm; Water Resistance: 300m (30 bars); Movement: Automatic.
Our next military watch is also 70 years old - the Blancpain FIfty Fathoms. While Blancpain has gained a lot of recent hype about their Fifty Fathoms / Swatch collaboration, the Fifty Fathoms itself is hype-worthy. The 70th Anniversary Act 2: Tech Gombessa, for example, includes a titanium case, a decompression valve, and a massive 120-hour power reserve. From a visual standpoint, the iteration mentioned above includes a patented dive-time indicator for up to 3 hours. This indicator is like a GMT but 1 rotation around the watch is 3 hours vs. 24 hours in a GMT. Bezel markings coincide with the dive-time indicator and orange indices and numerals pop off the dial beautifully. Blancpain sells its Fifty Fathoms in retail locations for $15,300 USD.
TAG Heuer Aquaracer Solargraph
Price: $3,050; Case: Steel, 40mm; Water Resistance: 200m; Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire.
If you're looking for a military watch that looks just as hot at night as it does during the day, we found the watch for you. From TAG comes a luminescent masterpiece - the Aquaracer Solargraph. From the steel case with black DLC on it to the charcoal-colored dial with lined pattern, this watch screams tough. But when you turn off the lights... Watch out.
The luminosity is what sets this watch apart from others. Not only are the indices and hands covered with quality lume, the bezel is too. But with the Aquaracer Solargraph, TAG still delivers on the military watch front, as the white indices are easy to read against the dark colored appearance and dial. Combine that with 200m of water resistance and it might be the perfect companion on your next evening stroll or military tour. It retails for $3,050 USD.
Victorinox I.N.O.X. Mechanical
Price: Approximately $1,050; Case: Stainless Steel, 43mm; Water Resistance: 200m; Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire.
Sometimes you just can't beat a classic. But we're not discussing an entry-level $200 Swiss Army watch; meet the upgraded Victorinox I.N.O.X. Mechanical watch. This military-style watch has a sleek guilloche pattern to catch attention (and it mimics a classic Swiss Army Knife handle). Another upgrade is in the movement - this I.N.O.X. model sports a Sellita SW200-1 Swiss Made movement, visible through an exhibition caseback. Finally, this Swiss Army watch features a one-of-a-kind strap - made out of wood. The strap utilizes wood overlaid onto a leather base and has a pretty unique appearance. With a blue dial done in a simple style, and with luminescence to finish the military watch motif, this is a great addition to any collection. Get yours for a retail of $1,150 USD.
Christopher Ward C65 Cranwell Series 2
Price: $1,295; Case: Stainless Steel, 38mm; Water Resistance: 150m; Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire.
We return to England for another military watch designed with the UK's military forces in mind. Licensed by the Ministry of Defense, Christopher Ward adds a Swiss Made classic military watch to the list. Done in a pilot style, the C65 Cranwell bears the "Royal Air Force" logo on the caseback. This dial is simple - solid, matte black with bold Arabic numerals covered in blue Super-LumiNova - and it sports Christopher Ward's twin-flags logo. As a military watch, the C65 Cranwell combines those classic dial elements above with a thin stainless steel bezel and bracelet. Add in a Sellita SW200-1, complete with 26 jewels and a 38-hour power reserve, and you've got a durable military watch for $1,295 USD.
Vertex M100A
Price: $2,576; Case: 316L Steel, 40mm; Water Resistance: 100m; Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire.
As if on cue, our next model also hails as an homage to the British military. This timepiece is solid and is worth giving a closer look. The M100A includes a thin, brushed steel case and a solid black dial. The dial includes a seconds subdial at the 6 o'clock mark and the Vertex name / logo in the center. The Arabic numerals are raised and are present just within an outer grid-style border. Including a Sellita SW260-1, this Swiss Made timepiece ticks to the tune of 31 jewels. As an added bonus to picking up this watch, it includes 3 different straps - a black leather strap, a grey NATO strap, and an additional NATO strap. Priced at $2,576 USD, this is a fabulous military timepiece to pick up.
Formex Field Automatic
Price: $995; Case: Titanium, 41mm; Water Resistance: 150m (15 bars); Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire
From innovative Swiss watchmaker Formex comes an atypical military watch. Meet the Formex Field Automatic. The Field Automatic has 7 available colorways, of which 4 or 5 fit the military watch bill. And if you want a traditional military-colored dial but a pop of colors, each dial has a handful of available straps for it. One of the most notable attributes of this watch, aside from the unique colorways and stencil-style font, is the titanium case and crown. Utilizing a special hardening process, Formex gives the Field a grade 2 titanium case along with its lightweight qualities but with an extreme durability. Powered by a 26-jewel Sellita SW200-1 movement, the Field includes a 41-hour power reserve. . At a $995 USD retail cost (and as low as $840 if you opt for a nylon-Velcro strap), this is one of the few Swiss-made automatic titanium watches at that price point.
Laco Frankfurt GMT
Price: $1,990; Case: Stainless Steel, 43mm; Water Resistance: 200m (20 ATM); Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire.
A perfect balance between a pilot’s watch and a general military watch, the Laco Frankfurt GMT checks all the boxes. The dial is not simple per-say, but Laco keeps it relatively easy on the eyes. Within the perimeter hour/minute markers, there are 3 and 9 numerals, an arrow at the 12 o’clock mark, Laco/GMT logo, and a date window. Yes, there’s a lot there but it offers surprisingly solid readability. The pops of orange are a nice touch too. With a dark, sandblasted finish, the Frankfurt GMT had a clean albeit dark look. The watch is powered by the caliber Laco 330, modeled after the Sellita 330-2. The Laco Frankfurt GMT offers all this at a retail price of $1,990 USD.
Muhle Glashutte S.A.R. Rescue Timer
Price: $2,250; Case: Stainless Steel, 42mm; Water Resistance: 1,000m (100 bars); Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire.
Oftentimes strong military watches are designed for either the armed forces or first responders. Such is the case for the Muhle Glashutte S.A.R. Rescue Timer. The S.A.R. Rescue was originally designed to support the German Maritime Search and Rescue Society (DGzRS). Because of the challenging combination of elements many in the armed forces frequently face - Muhle Glashutte built a very hearty timepiece. Most notably, the S.A.R. includes a 4mm thick sapphire glass (3x that of most watches) and the date window magnifier is contained within that glass instead of on the surface of it. The S.A.R. Rescue Timer sports a simple dial with some design liberties taken in the rubber bezel, the crown at the 4 mark vs. the standard 3 mark, and an innovative rubber dial that has a built-in feel. With such a high level of durability, the retail price of $2,250 USD feels more than fair.
Muhle Glasshute SeeBataillon GMT
Price: Approx. $3,200; Case: Titanium, 45mm; Water Resistance: 300m (30 bars); Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire.
After completing the above S.A.R. timepiece for the German Maritime Search and Rescue Society, Muhle Glasshute took on an additional member of the German armed forces - the Navy SeeBataillon. As the SeeBataillon frequently deploy to foreign countries, Glasshute added in GMT functionality as well as 24-hour markings on the inner bezel. Made of titanium and sporting a bright blue dial, this watch bring style and utility together. Glasshute again utilizes the crown and date window at the 4 o'clock mark with the SeeBataillon, though those are some of the few similarities with the S.A.R. This watch has a much more complex dial - sporting a 60-minute countdown on the bezel, the aforementioned 24-hour markings on the inner bezel, and minute indices. The SeeBataillon GMT is available for just over $3,200 USD.
Benrus Type 1 Military Diver
Price: Approx. $1,695; Case: Stainless Steel, 42.5mm; Water Resistance: 300m (30 ATM); Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire.
If you're looking for a vintage military watch, Benrus has the perfect one for you: the Type I Original Military Dive Watch. This limited-edition watch is a reissue of a field / dive watch made for the United States Military during the Vietnam War. That watch, the Type I, was created with the Underwater Demolitions Team (UDT) in mind. With the reissue, Benrus kept the original design and specifications but upgraded technologies to keep it ticking as consistently as modern watches.
The Type I is one of the simplest dial designs we've ever seen. It features a solid black dial with various basic shapes for the hour marks. Just beyond those are small minute marks and the bezel features Arabic numerals 1-11. That's it - no distracting logos or graphics. Just pure military watch magic. To complement the simple black design, the watch comes on a black seatbelt nylon NATO with the option of purchasing a tan or green NATO. Powering the Type I is an ETA Swiss automatic movement with a hacking seconds feature. For a timepiece steeped in history and featuring a Swiss-Made movement, the retail price of $1,695 USD feels like a bargain.
Edox SkyDiver
Price: Approx. $1,840; Case: Stainless Steel, 38mm; Water Resistance: 300m (30 ATM); Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire.
In keeping pace with the diver from Benrus, Swiss watchmaker Edox brings its own spin on the military watch. As a watchmaker specializing in water resistance, Edox does not cut corners on keeping the watch protected in water, thanks to the double-gasket crown it invented in 1961. In its appearance, the SkyDiver is clean and precise. We like the black dial the most but there are a total of 8 versions/colorways including blue and green. Set against the dial are two-toned hour markers and minute indices. Just beyond those, Edox uses a ceramic bezel to utilize another variety of minute markers. The models with the stainless steel bracelet flow nicely from the dial throughout the bracelet, while the leather also gives a desirable contrast between the dial and the strap. Edox’s SkyDiver has a retail price of $1,840 USD.
Luminox Original Navy SEAL Watch
Price: Approx. $445; Case: CARBONOX, 43mm; Water Resistance: 200m; Movement: Quartz; Crystal: Sapphire.
In introducing our third quartz entry we're also introducing our second entry in honor of the Navy SEALS. As a watch officially licensed by the U.S. Department of the Navy, this Luminox model is full of innovations. For starters (and perhaps most famously), this watch has plenty of Luminox Light Technology (LLT) - a luminescent technology that constantly glows (24x7) for up to an impressive 25 years. The timepiece also features CARBONOX as the case material - a patented primarily carbon substance that grants the case toughness but at an extremely low weight. Unlike some of the more simple dial designs we have recently highlighted, the Luminox SEAL watch packs a lot into the dial. That being said, the bold nature of the numerals used does make it easy to tell time, even with the extra items on the dial. The Luminox Original Navy SEAL watch retails for $445 USD.
Hamilton Khaki Field Automatic
Price: The Field King Auto is $695 but there are models ranging from $425-$1,945; Case: Stainless Steel, 40mm; Water Resistance: 50m; Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire.
This is the military watch you've seen everywhere. These beauties from Hamilton deserve your attention and maybe a spot in your collection as well. With over 51 combinations of colorways and movements, there is a Khaki Field for you. Our favorite is the Khaki Field King Automatic with a black dial. The solid black dial does have a bit of reflective nature to it, so the watch pops a bit more than a typical military watch with a matte black dial. This dial has many components on it but it feels open and clear. And then there's one of the defining characteristics of this model - the date window and a day of the week window at the 12 o'clock position. All this at a retail price of $550 USD with a Swiss movement is probably a big reason why the timepiece is so widely popular.
Seiko Prospex "Arnie" - SNJ025
Price: $395; Case: Stainless Steel and Plastic, 48mm; Water Resistance: 200m; Movement: Solar; Crystal: Hardlex.
This timepiece has numerous differences from the other watches we have discussed. It is the first solar piece to make the list, with a power reserve of 6 months - yes, as in half of a year. It's also one of the few analog-digital combinations on the list. While the Prospex does have multiple unique traits, the watch shares several qualities with the other military watches on the list. A solid black dial keeps to the military motif. The inner dial includes logos and dots / rectangles for the indices. At the 12 o'clock position you'll find the digital portion of the watch and just beyond that are 14-22 Arabic numerals for military time as well as numerals 10-50 on the bezel. The Proxpex SNJ025 has a retail price of $395 USD so it may be a fantastic idea to add one into your collection.
Seiko Prospex Sea SRPE93
Price: $495; Case: Stainless Steel, 45mm; Water Resistance: 200m; Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Hardlex.
If you are a Seiko fan but the "Arnie" discussed above is a bit too busy for your tastes, the Prospex Sea may be the model for you. This timepiece from Seiko has a simpler overall look than the prior Prospex we looked at but it still checks the boxes of the military watch style. The solid black dial features the Seiko and Prospex logos in the center and the minute markers on the dial and bezel are simple so as to not attract unnecessary attention. One of the attributes most loved about Seiko is a quality Japanese movement at a low price point, and this model is no different. This timepiece utilizes the Caliber 4R36 automatic movement, with 24 jewels and a power reserve of approximately 41 hours. This watch made the list because it packs in a well-designed dial, solid water resistance, and a Japanese automatic movement at a price point south of $500 USD.
Yema Navygraf Marine Nationale GMT
Price: $1,349; Case: Stainless Steel, 38.5mm; Water Resistance: 300m; Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire.
From the matte blue dial and matching bezel to the pops of yellow through the watch and NATO band, the Yema Navygraf Marine Nationale GMT watch is sharp. As the Official Partner of the French Navy (also known as the Marine Nationale), Yema made this watch to last. The brushed stainless steel case is water resistant to 300m, protecting the YEMA3000 in-house Caliber. With 29 jewels and a power reserve of 42 hours, it gets the job done. Aside from the daytime coloring, the night coloring via Grade A Super-LumiNova is superb. The luminescent indices are on-point but the lume on the bezel is really where it gets unique. All of the white on the bezel turns a beautiful blue luminosity. To snag a watch with that level of luminosity and a GMT at a retail price of $1,345 USD is a fabulous deal.
Marathon Search & Rescue Diver
Price: $1,800; Case: Stainless Steel, 41mm; Water Resistance: 300m; Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire.
We now travel to Canada for watches made to withstand the elements. Marathon designs their watches near the "Great North" and produces them in Switzerland, so each timepiece bears the coveted "Swiss Made" marking. With the Search & Rescue Diver, Marathon delivers a tool watch that is as tough as the northern country where it was designed. Our favorite is the 41mm stainless steel model but Marathon also offers them in a variety of cases in a small, medium, or jumbo size. The 41mm comes in with a great combination of smooth versus complicated. To enhance the design, the stainless steel is 316L surgical grade and appears to have a brushed appearance. All in all, the Marathon Search & Rescue Diver offers a tough watch without too many unnecessary complications at a retail price of $1,800 USD.
MTM Silver SEAL
Price: $2,275; Case: Titanium, 45mm; Water Resistance: 1,000m; Movement: Quartz; Crystal: Sapphire.
If you saw the "SEAL" in the title of this watch and wondered if it's a third interaction with the US Navy SEALS, you would be correct. To that end, it's built to withstand almost anything. The Silver SEAL is water resistant to 1,000m and features an automatic helium release valve. To prevent crystal breakage, the watch utilizes 4.5mm thick sapphire crystal. Although it is a relatively thick watch at 16mm, it weighs just 6.6 ounces due to the use of grade 5 titanium for the case. The titanium case protects the Swiss Ronda715Li quartz movement. The SEAL is available in two colorways: the Silver SEAL and the Black SEAL which features a black DLC coating for about $200 more. Both colorways feature a carbon fiber patterned dial to really turn heads. This timepiece has a stellar look with an incredibly sturdy finish - at a fair price point of $2,275 USD.
Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Diver
Price: $3,350; Case: Ceramic, 43mm; Water Resistance: 300m; Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire.
While military watches are common in the watch industry today, military watches made out of ceramic are not. Meet the uncommon Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Diver. With a ceramic case and a stainless steel bezel, the timepiece is all about shaking up the norm. In so doing, however, Rado maintains a simple - even vintage - design. With 4 different colorways including black, grey, blue, and olive, the design starts with the solid-color dial and moves outward with simple indices and minute markers. If ceramic isn't your cup of tea, the Captain Cook is available in stainless steel and bronze as well. Prices can differ between the case materials but the high-tech ceramic starts at $3,750 USD.
Cabot Watch Company (CWC) SBS Diver Issue
Price: Approx. $730; Case: PVD, 45mm; Water Resistance: 300m; Movement: Quartz; Crystal: Sapphire.
We again travel to the U.K. for a watch made for the Armed Forces there. The CWC SBS Diver Issue has been used in the Special Boat Service of the Royal Navy since 1987. While it was designed in (and used by Armed Forces in) the U.K., the SBS Diver is made in Switzerland and utilizes a Swiss Quartz movement. The watch packs a fair amount of information into a straightforward dial - it includes hour indices and minute markers, along with a day/date window and minute markers around the bezel. All this in white and light green against a solid black dial and case makes for a sharp look. And even better - this Swiss Quartz won't even set you back $1k as it retails for around $730 USD.
Certina DS Action GMT
Price: $995; Case: Stainless Steel with PVD Coating, 43mm; Water Resistance: 200m; Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire.
If you're looking for a Swiss Made watch for under $1k - one that is unique in its appearance and will turn some heads - Certina's DS Action GMT should do the trick. The most innovative design attribute of the watch is the inner bezel - the DS Action has a two-toned bezel appearance on the dial itself. The actual bezel is a simple circle around the dial. Those colors are determined by the colorway you pick - either green, orange, or red - and the coating on the hands and the indices also match that same color. With that innovative design and a GMT, as well as an automatic movement that has a solid 80-hour power reserve, the $995 USD retail price tag feels like a steal.
Bulova MIL Ships Standard Production Edition
Price: $895; Case: Stainless Steel, 41mm; Water Resistance: 200m; Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire.
World-renowned watchmaker Bulova has officially gone vintage. With the MIL Ships Standard Production Edition, you feel like you have a piece of history on your wrist. From the vintage "Bulova" font to the simple hour / minute markers akin to watches from the first half of the 20th century, this watch screams "classic." Yet the bold orange color choice for the indices, hands, and bezel markings brings a touch of modern with it. Add in a dependable Miyota 82S0 with 21 jewels as well as a 42-hour power reserve and you've got a winning watch. And the icing on the cake is that the MIL Ships retails for $895 USD.
Sinn EZM3
Price: Approximately $2,100 - $2,500. Case: Stainless Steel, 41mm; Water Resistance: 500m; Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire.
From German watchmaker Sinn comes a military watch full of technology. In the EZM3, Sinn packs in water resistance to 500m, magnetic field protection up to 100mT (=80,000 A/m), Ar-Dehumidifying tech to prevent fogging, and temperature resistance from -45C to +80C. The EZM3 also has the crown on the left side of the watch to prevent pressure against the hand (or alternatively for a lefty). All the technology is to protect the Swiss Made SW200-1 movement and it's wrapped up in a classy dial design with small Arabic numerals 1-12 and hour/minute indices around the perimeter and on the bezel. Sinn sells primarily through their factory store and sales partners, but the EZM3 can also be found on the grey market for around $2,100 - $2,500 USD.
Ball Engineer III Marvelight Chronometer
Price: $1,799 - $2,349. Case: Stainless Steel, 40mm; Water Resistance: 100m; Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire.
Originally an American watch manufacturer responsible for railroad timings, Ball is known for its precision. The Engineer III sports the BALL RR1103-C movement, which is based on either the Swiss Made ETA 2824-2 or a Sellita SW200-1. With 25-26 jewels and a power reserve of around 38 hours, coupled with an proprietary antimagnetism technology and shock protection, this Ball will get you where you need to go on-time. Utilizing 904L stainless steel, the Engineer III meets the military watch motif but also can be easily dressed up to go with your tux. Available in a black, crimson, and green colorway, the Ball Engineer III is an excellent choice if you want a military watch that has a dressy look to it. It retails for $1,799 - $2,349 USD depending on the colorway selected.
Wolbrook Outrider Automatic Field
Price: Approximately $525. Case: Stainless Steel, 39.5mm; Water Resistance: 150m; Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire.
Wolbrook's affordable Outrider Field watch demands attention because of how much value is packed into each watch. A 316L stainless steel case utilizes Wolbrook's HexapleX Architecture, which encompasses shock resistance, water resistance, and drilled lugs for keeping straps on. The case protects the Citizen / Miyota 8315 movement, with 21 jewels and a 60-hour power reserve. From a design standpoint, the Outrider Field watch has a distinct military watch appearance, with Arabic numerals 1-12 aside from the date window at the 6 o'clock mark. The date disk is done in a "roulette" style, meaning the even dates are in red and the odd dates are in black. A final touch of uniqueness on the appearance, the hour hand's tip is flat instead of pointed. Even more impressive than the specs of the watch, it retails for around $525 USD.
Stowa Flieger Classic 40 Baumuster B
Price: Approximately $1,335. Case: Stainless Steel, 40mm; Water Resistance: 50m (5 ATM); Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire.
As we've seen, sometimes a vintage military watch can be reborn into a modern-day timepiece. Such is the case for German watchmaker Stowa's Flieger Classic 40 Baumuster B. With the original produced in 1942, this timepiece weaves modern technology into an 80+ year old design. The design is that of a classic field or pilot watch - a solid matte black dial, a small circle in the center of the watch with Arabic numerals 1-12 and minute markers with digits 5-55 around the perimeter of the watch. Those details are enhanced by the arrow at the 12 o'clock mark and the blue outline surrounding the watch's hands. All movements in the Flieger Classic are Swiss Made and the available options are the SW200 or a SW215-1 / SW210. While this is the only colorway of the Baumuster B, there are a variety of similar timepieces in the Flieger Classic collection to include different case sizes, case materials, colorways, and dial design. The Flieger Classic 40 Baumuster B retails for approximately $1,335 USD.
Timor Heritage Field WWW
Price: $1,029. Case: Stainless Steel, 36.5mm; Water Resistance: 50m; Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire.
If you know military watch history, you've doubtlessly heard of the "Dirty Dozen" - a group of 12 watchmakers who produced watches for the British Armed Forces in World War II. Timor was one of those watchmakers and they have in recent years resurrected their original WWII military watch. Meet the Heritage Field WWW. As with other WWII reissues, the design of the Heritage Field needs little introduction. The solid black dial is graced with Arabic numerals 1-12, aside from the 6 o'clock mark where the seconds subdial resides. The numerals are surrounded by a grid-style circle with hour and minute markers and all significant elements are done in a beige Superluminova. A simple, bead-blasted stainless steel bezel and a seatbelt nylon strap complete the look and a Swiss Made Sellita SW260 / SW216 completes the watch itself. While currently sold out, Timor will be opening 2024 pre-orders for the Heritage Field WWW soon and the watch will retail for $1,029 USD.
