26 Swiss Watch Brands and Their Best Watches
Switzerland is the beating heart of the watch industry, and, with wristwatches being the country’s 4th leading export, the watch industry is the beating heart of Switzerland. Accounting for over $26 Billion in economic activity in 2022, the Swiss watch industry is a juggernaut. When anyone thinks of luxury watches, you think of Swiss watches. So we thought it made since to create a primer of sorts, for the top Swiss watch brands. So what is the best Swiss luxury watch brand? Well it’s definitely debatable. Let’s let's look at the 26 best Swiss watch manufacturers, and the models that define them.
Rolex
This part of the guide feels like a formality, since Rolex is synonymous with luxury Swiss timepieces. Anyone who is reading this surely knows the brand intimately, and even those who will never read this guide need only dwell above a rock to know Rolex. History has witnessed this rugged Geneva based maker of classic tool watches become the most instantly recognizable sign of luxury in society, crystallizing the nameless aspiration of generations. The crown logo they wear is De Jure and De Facto - they are undeniably the royal monarch of watches.
Submariner
If someone were to tell you that the Rolex Submariner is the most iconic watch ever, they probably wouldn’t be wrong. Sure, others walked so the Sub could run, but this watch turned out to be Carl Lewis. No watch is as instantly recognizable, nor has been copied more repeatedly throughout history than the brand's quintessential diver. Offered both with and without a date, this watch has seen everything from military use to Wall Street trades. If you can get one at retail, it'll be $9,100 USD but they sell for much higher than that on the grey market.
Day-Date
Known aptly as “the Presidential”, if you see someone in a Rolex Day-Date, its a good guess that they are in charge. This piece embodies refined power - offered only in precious metals, and often seen on the wrists of world leaders and CEOs alike. There is absolutely no question, the wearer of a Day-Date means business. For the most part, the Day Date is more easily attainable at retail because it's only produced in precious metal (and more expensive than the brand's more popular steel offerings) But will start around $38,000 USD in gold, and go up from there.
Daytona
The Rolex Daytona is arguably the most recognized chronograph to ever hit the market. While Rolex wasn't the first to introduce the automatic chronograph, they became known as the one's who refined it. The watch is a famous favorite of movies, TV shows, and celebrities, with the most widely synonymous with Paul Newman and his many racing escapades. The model has been refined, changed, and modified over the years bringing it to where it is now - A serious luxury chronograph that's so sought after, it sells for much more than it's MSRP. If you're lucky enough to snag one in a brick and mortar, You'd be looking at a starting price of $15,100 USD, with pricing going up depending on material and configuration.
Patek Philippe
Class, personified. Such is the wrist of the fortunate owner of a wristwatch from Patek Phillipe - widely regarded as one of the finest watchmakers in the world. Patek Phillippe has made history countless times with groundbreaking pieces, with their ‘Grande Complications’ fetching jaw-dropping seven and eight-figure sums at auction and seen on the wrists of everyone from movie stars, to world leaders. Many consider Patek Philippe the absolute pinnacle of luxury watchmaking. For that reason the brand had to be near the top of our list of the best Swiss watch brands.
Nautilus
The quintessential luxury sport watch, and the chief rival to the classic Royal Oak, is Patek Phillippe’s Nautilus. It has played host to some of Patek’s most impressive complications, most notably a perpetual calendar. It is, however, the time and date version, reference 5711 that collectors so desperately hunt for since it's arguably the most popular steel sport watch on the market. Since it was discontinued a few years back, the price for a navy blue dial 5711 has been staggering. To celebrate 170 years of collaboration with Tiffany, they released 170 Tiffany blue 5711’s - which can only be had if you have a few million you don’t particularly need. The watch in it's most popular form has been discontinued, and it's not uncommon for watch enthusiasts to see it go for over $135,000 USD on the Grey Market - Many multiples above it's retail price.
Aquanaut
Even as rubber straps become increasingly prevalent, there will always be one iconic luxury rubber-clad watch that all the others are chasing - the Patek Aquanaut. Introduced back in the 90’s, this watch has hosted some elite complications, including Patek’s iconic travel time-chronograph. The Aquanaut rubber strap has become so iconic that finding one uncut can cost five figures on its own. The retail price is a much easier pill to swallow over the Nautiilus starting at $24,250 USD in Steel.
Calatrava
The Calatrava has been a staple dress watch in the Patek lineup for some time, and with good reason - its absolutely timeless. The line has extended from it's dress watch roots to accommodate weekly calendars, dual time zones, and much more. Further, the current collection only comes in precious metals, adding class, whether it's a sporty or a dressy model. Whether yours is time only, or with one of Patek’s iconic complications, the entire lineup will leave you wanting more. While plenty of room to increase, prices for the Calatrava typically start at around 40,000 USD.
Omega
The name’s Aldrin, Buzz Aldrin. Since 1903, Omega has conquered the moon, sea, and silver screen with timeless, classic, highly functional pieces. Founded in La Chaux de Fonds, this Swatch group member has graced the watch world with such classics as the Speedmaster Moonwatch and Pierce Brosnan’s iconic blue Seamaster, and their collaborations for the James Bond movies. From Moneypenny to Mission Control, Omega watches are intertwined in the fabric of culture and history.
Speedmaster
Any conversation about history’s most iconic watches has to include the Omega Speedmaster. Famously worn on Apollo 11 mission, this legendary chronograph has remained true to its roots since it first slipped the surly bonds of Earth, so to speak. Wearers of this piece still have to hand-wind it, as if they, too, share in the whimsical plight of zero gravity - Though the brand does offer it with their more modern Co-Axial automatic movement. If this watch is good enough for NASA, it's good enough for us. Price for the Speedmaster start at $7,000 USD.
Seamaster
For those seeking their refuge in the depths, the Seamaster will be a happy companion at any sea level. The line boasts models rated as deep as 6000 meters, but for the casual wearer, if you find yourself that deep, you have bigger problems than what time it is! Even for those staying landlocked, the Seamaster will always be a solid, reliable dive line with a wide range of sizes, dial options, and complications. Unlike the Moonwatch, the prices for the entry level Seamasters, start around $4,000 USD.
Cartier
Cartier is much more than a legendary jewelry house. They are a bona fide maker of timeless, reliable timepieces. Cartier pieces have become synonymous with understated luxury, as vintage Cartier pieces are increasingly adored by a wider audience.
Tank Must
The Tank Must is a true quintessential square dress watch. The proportions are slim, but with strong wrist presence and beautifully finished case that melts onto the wrist. With both steel bracelet and leather strap options, there is a lot of versatility in this piece. Saving this watch for special occasions would be just as justified as wearing it daily. The watch comes in 3 sizes, a small, "Large", and "Extra Large", with prices starting at $2,930 USD.
Santos de Cartier
Cartier integrates steel bracelets onto all their watches nicely, but the aesthetic of the Santos is so uniquely Cartier that it stands out among the rest. The details on each link are exquisite, and the curvature combined with beautiful finishing make this piece as dressy as it is sporty. Skeletonized versions of the watch show a glimpse of the serious watchmaking in practice at Cartier, while others adorned with jewels pay homage to their roots. But our favorite is still the classic steel, which will run you $7,050 USD.
Audemars Piguet
Fans of ‘Entourage' will recall the fictitious Warner Communications CEO telling Ari Gold that Audemars Piguet is “quite possibly the finest timepiece known to man”, and you’ll find no protest from me. The brand is headquartered in historic Le Brassus, and has made some of history’s most beloved watches.
Royal Oak
The legendary Royal Oak is one of the most easily recognizable and classic watches ever made. From the mind of Gerald Genta, this timeless design has worn the test of time through tireless innovation and evolution. Audemars Piguet's Royal Oak has played host to some of high horology’s most ambitious complications, including the coup de grace, an impossibly sporty Grande Complication in ceramic and titanium. While many of the Royal Oak Collection is difficult to obtain, and with the more complicated ones fetching significantly higher prices (especially in precious metals), if you're lucky enough to snag one at retail, you're looking at 27,800 USD for the Ref. 15510ST.
Code 11.59
Audemars Piguet is far from a one-trick pony. The newly conceived Code 11.59 is a perfect example of how the storied watchmakers of the world can continue to surprise us. I personally fell in love with an Code 11.59 chronograph in yellow gold when I was fortunate enough to try it on at the boutique in East Hampton, New York. The contrasting gold against the blue, and meticulous detail on the dial mesmerized me, and the double-curved sapphire crystal made it a pleasure to read in any light. The Code 11.59 is much more than a gateway to your AD’s Royal Oak list - if you haven’t seen one in person, you have to experience it for yourself. You may just find one speaking to you, like I did. Like the Royal Oak, there are some very expensive and complicated versions of the Code 11.59, but the cost of entry starts at $25,300 USD.
F.P. Journe
Founded in 1989 by F.P. Journe himself, the goal of the company was to introduce high quality movements into the industry. The company quickly grew, and between the early 90’s and early 2000’s, Journe had over 50 employees working on and producing wristwatches. In the industry today, F.P. Journe is often refered to as “The Watchmaker’s Watchmaker” as his watches are some of the most sought after, and rare watches in the world. Producing less than 900 watches per year, buyers are wiling to wait for a long time for one to be produced, thus making Journe’s watches a rarity to see on the wrist, and if you do, they’re fairly exclusive clientele, or willing to pay many multiples over retail price.
CHRONOMÈTRE BLEU
The Chronometre Bleu is arguably Journe’s most popular model. It’s a lot less “cluttered” than some of the other watches the brand produces, but it packs in a ton of features considering it’s visual simplicity. First, the case is made of Tantalum, a notoriously dense and difficult to manipulate material. Unique though, in that the metal has an almost blue hue to it, complimenting the dial and leaning even more into the blue theme of the watch. Inside the case is Journe’s Calibre 1304 - A solid gold movement featuring 129 parts, 56 hours of power reserve, and hand finished decoration. Truly a beautiful watch, and very rare. If you're lucky enough to get on the list, the retail is $37,400 USD. But sells for many multiples above that on the grey market.
LineSport Centigraphe
The second most popular watch from F.P. Journe is probably the LineSport Centigraphe - Journe's more sporty option. The watch comes in an oversized Titanium case, though Journe offers the watch in Gold and Platinum if you choose. The unique integrated case and bracelet provide some visual interest, and the option of plenty of colorful dials definitely makes this a watch firmly rooted in motorsports. Inside the Centigraphe is the Calibre 1506, a 1/100th of a second chronograph that is remarkably thin at just 5.6mm high, considering how complicated it is. Retail starts at $59,000 USD and increases with material selection.
Elegante
F.P. Journe’s élégante may be a quartz watch, but it is unlike any other quartz watch on the market. The watch not only features a tonneau case ship, unique for a F.P. Journe watch, but a beautiful dial that is more classically Journe. But the real star of the show is the movement. Yes it is quartz, but it is also an electro mechanical movement with motion detector that will allow the watch to run for between 8 and 18 years, depending on if the watch is in daily use or standby mode. This actually makes the watch more reliable than most automatic watches. The whole dial of the élégante illuminates, and the quartz movement can actually be seen through a display caseback. Both are very unique features for a watch. Retail price for the F.P. Journe élégante starts at around $13,000 USD, but expect to pay much more on the secondary market.
Oris
Oris, like many watch brands of its era, began producing pocketwatches initially, with their first models dating all the way back to 1904, in Holstein. Oris has long been a formidable manufacturer of fine timepieces - they switched production to wristwatches in 1925, and by 1960, were producing a million watches per year. This storied house was even run by J.D. LeCoultre, before he famously joined Edmond Jaeger in 1937.
Aquis
Oris’ line of distinct dive watches, the Aquis, has become a collector’s favorite over the last couple of years with some very unique limited edition, many focused on eco-friendly causes. Their most recent, a collaboration with Bracenet, is not only stylish, but also benefits ocean cleanup efforts. Their base line of Aquis watches range from 36.5mm to 49.5mm, and house complications like small seconds, GMTs, and even depth gauges. The basic Oris Aquis Date model retails for $3,700 USD.
Big Crown
The lovers of heritage-inspired watches will drool at some of the timelessly gorgeous options of the Oris Big Crown Pointer Date. Encased in steel, bronze, and even solid gold, the Big Crown line is effortlessly chic, with most models boasting, you guessed it, pointer date functions. Choices include bronze and steel bracelets, as well as a host of leather straps. Available in both 36mm and 40mm cases sizes, the Big Crown line is another from Oris that is riddled with Limited Editions. Oris equipped the flagship model with their in-house calibre 473, a privilege which will cost you $4,400 USD. The Oris Big Crown Pointer Date can be had with generic movements for $2,300 USD.
Oris ProPilot X
It was hard to ignore the Oris ProPilot X “Kermit” edition when it was released - the bright green dial and Kermit feature on the date wheel ensured that watch consumers would remember it. For those seeking something a little subtler (or maybe just muppet-free), the sleek titanium ProPilot offers blue, silver, and salmon options, as well as skeletonized versions. The lightweight body and sleek case finishing make this an attractive, sporty option - starting at ***$4,300 USD ***.
IWC
Tucked on the scenic banks of the High Rhine, Schaffhausen sets the backdrop for the iconic watchmaker known globally as IWC. International Watch Company. No muss, no fuss - and neither are their timepieces. Commanding cases, legible dials, and practical complications adorn each line of this storied house, which has played host to some legendary figures in watchmaking history. Few brands boast a design from Gerald Genta, and of those, only one has the most precise perpetual calendar movement on earth, courtesy of genius engineer Kurt Klaus.
Big Pilot
Most brands have some niche, but not many are synonymous with theirs. IWC is one of the few that is. Throughout history, no watchmaker has built a more renowned collection of pilot’s watches than IWC. The Big Pilot - their flagship model - has been a trusted cockpit companion since 1940, and is the watch that celebrity collector John Mayer credits with cementing his interest in watches. The line has played host to endless limited editions, as well as even adorning the brand’s industry-leading perpetual calendar. The classic steel version of the IWC Big Pilot retails for $13,200 USD.
Ingenieur
While the Big Pilot is, without a doubt, the most iconic watch in IWC’s history, the Ingenieur is waiting right in the wings. This steel sport watch evolved to the piece we know today in 1976 when Gerald Genta introduced the world to the Ingenieur SL in 1976. The sleek integrated bracelet and center links made this watch at attractive as it was practical. Re-launched at Watches & Wonders 2023, this newly rejuvenated series is one to love into the future. The IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 retails in steel for $11,700 USD.
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Vacheron Constantin
Vacheron Constantin is as historic a watchmaker as there is in the world. With continuous production since 1755, Vacheron is one of the oldest brands in the world - and widely considered to be one of the finest watchmakers on earth.
Overseas
As a member of the “Trinity” of watchmakers, its only right that Vacheron should have an answer to the Royal Oak and Nautilus, right? That is where the Overseas comes in. With a gorgeously integrated steel bracelet, this luxurious sport watch is every bit as durable as it is classy. Available in both gold and steel, wearers can really do it all with the overseas. It even features a quick release system so wearers can switch from steel to the factory rubber and leather strap options. The Vacheron Constantin Overseas retail for a whopping $25,000 USD in classic steel.
Patrimony
The name ‘Patrimony’ might be the most fitting for this line from Vacheron, since they are watches intended to be passed along. With simple, classic dials and handsomely understated complications, these iconic dress watches are truly timeless. If you’re lucky enough to have one in your family, cherish it. If not, its never too late. You can buy this family heirloom for $22,100 USD.
Jacob & Co.
“Jacob the Jewler” gained fame in the 90’s and early 2000’s as a prominent 47th street diamond dealer catering to a host of celebrity clients - even getting an early shout out on a Jay-Z song. He’s a prominent designer and business man responsible for everything from his main gig in watches and jeweler, to even cars and real estate. Today, Jacob Arabo is a producer of some of the most jaw-dropping timepieces known to man.
Astronomia
The Jacob & Co Astronomia has boasted some of the most unbelievable feats of watchmaking, including working roulette wheels, music box complications, and golden adornments that require months to complete - not to mention the rotating tourbillons found in many models. Having the pleasure just to see one of these watches in person, let alone own one, is mesmerizing. While most of the pricing is on request only, the more basic Jacob & Co. Astronomia starts at around $500,000 USD.
Bugatti Chiron
The Bugatti Chiron is arguably one of the finest cars known to man, so it needs an equally capable watch to go along with it, right? Thanks to Jacob & Co, that is exactly the case, with their tribute to the hyper car. The unique tonneau-shape case is reminiscent of the car’s body, and houses a replica of its awe-inspiring 16-cylinder engine, but fully functioning as a watch movement. Price for the Jacob & Co. Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon starts at about 250,000 USD.
Twin Turbo Furious
The aptly-named Twin Turbo features twin rotating tourbillons, amongst a host of incredible features. It also features a gorgeously-sloping rose gold case, and a movement with a baffling 581 components. The complexity of the movement is due to the novel decimal minute repeater, which ranks as the most rare chiming complication in the world. These will run you north of $500,000 USD.
Breitling
Dating all the way back to 1884, Breitling is a maker of durable, sporty watches with commanding presence and style. Originally based in Saint-Imier, the brand was family owned until 1979, before ultimately being taken over by private equity in 2017.
Super Avenger
The Breitling Super Avenger is a tool watch chronograph with a dominating scale and very legible dial. Constructed of lightweigh titanium or stainless steel, this watch is incredibly shock resistant and capable of anything. This piece also boasts a two day power reserve and 30 bar water resistance. Wearers can throw a lot at this watch without worry. This beast can be yours today for $6,700 USD.
Navitimer
Breitling’s most iconic watch in their catalogue is the Navitimer. Originally a pilot tool watch, the Navitimer line has expanded to include a chronograph, as well as multiple case sizes. The recognizable slide rule adorns the larger case size options, while the smaller 32mm has a cleaner bezel and slimmer profile. This a a true “go anywhere, do anything” watch. The time only Breitling Navitimer retails for $5,000, while the more classic chronograph model starts at $9,700 USD.
Jaeger-LeCoulture
Jaeger-LeCoultre is often considered “the watchmaker’s watchmaker” as they have supplied movements to countless luxury brands throughout history, as well as pioneered some truly unbelievable complications. Founded in 1937, Jaeger is a maker of luxurious, understated pieces.
Reverso
There is just something inexplicable about the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso. This watch exudes an air of class that is hard to articulate. The scale, dial simplicity, and near-perfect finishing make it a piece that owners will undoubtedly cherish for life. Made initially so polo players could protect their watches in game, this line has evolved to include some eye-grabbing complications and dual faces. It is no coincidence that every iteration of the fictional Bruce Wayne has adorned this watch. The classic Monoface retails for $8,750, with the more sought after duoface versions starting at $13,100 USD.
Polaris
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris was initially made famous with its iconic Memovox, complete with a usefully quirky alarm function. The line has morphed and evolved over time - one iteration is a true diver with dual screw down crowns, and another houses their legendary perpetual calendar movement. With options to wear both a bracelet and rubber strap option, the Polaris has incredible utility, as well as aesthetic appeal. The time only version retails for $10,500 USD.
Master Ultra-Thin
Jaeger-LeCoultre is a master producer of complications, and they put that on display with the aptly named ‘Master’ collection. This line of watches is one where Jaeger-LeCoultre really shows their technical acumen as a watchmaker. It is an impressive feat of engineering to fit a movement as complex as a perpetual calendar into a case as slim as that of the 39mm Master Ultra Thin. The entire line features impossibly sleek cases and timeless finishing - not to mention, a wide array of complications and case materials. The basic steel time and date version retails for $9,550.
Tag Heuer
Following the merger of the Tag and Heuer watch brands, this legendary manufacturer of sport watches hit the ground, or more accurately, the track, running. Synonymous with racing, Tag Heuer’s roots date all the way back to the 60’s and the Heuer Autavia, which was made famous among racers and pilots. Today, their heritage is on fully display as one of the premier makers of sport watches in the current market.
Carrera
The Tag Heuer Carrera is a quintessential sport watch. Easily legible, and often equipped with a chronograph, these pieces are the perfect track companion. Maybe you’re just watching racing, you can still enjoy a handsome lineup of date and day models of this classic piece available in a staggering number of configurations. Dripping with heritage, this is one of the deepest lines Tag Heuer has to offer. The classic day-date configuration retails for $3,350 USD.
Monaco
No doubt, you’ve seen that quirky-but-sharp, square chronograph that seems to pop up on celebrities' wrists every so often. That is none other than the Tag Heuer Monaco, and it is a staple in the world of racing. Just ask Steve McQueen, who famously wore it portraying a driver in the classic Formula One film Le Mans. The modern versions are offered in both steel and titanium, making for a highly versatile and wearable chronograph, on and off the track. The TAG Heuer Monaco retails for $7,700 USD ion steel.
Aquaracer
Tag Heuer’s diver, the Aquaracer, is another incredibly deep line with a very distinct case profile and strong wrist presence. With a minimum of 200 metres of water resistance, these classic dive watches are as capable as they are handsome. The Aquaracer is offered in a variety of case sizes, movement types, and materials, definitely catering to a number of crowds, surely pleasing all of them. The lower end models start around $2,300, with the more professional models retailing for $3,500 USD.
Panerai
Originally hailing from scenic Florence, Italy, Panerai is a classic producer of rugged, durable pieces. They even have history supplying the Italian armed forces with tool watches for deployment. The brand has since been acquired by Richemont group, and continues to produce distinct timepieces with their own unique design and style.
Luminor
Their best know model, the Luminor, is one that helped build the brand to what it is today. It features their iconic crown guard, as well as cushion-esque shaped case and a round dial. An unassuming bezel helps to maintain legibility at all angles as well. This line features a number of exciting complications, including the almighty perpetual calendar. The classic small seconds version of the Panerai Luminor, however, retails for a modest $6,100 USD.
Radiomar
The Panerai Radiomar is an excellent watch for someone who wants a watch they can truly wear anywhere. This line is understated, with the classic Panerai case design and aesthetic. For tool watches, the Radiomar collection has some really eye-catching dials, both sunburst and otherwise. Hand-wound movements help keep the case proportions slim and very wearable. This watch can be dressed up or down with ease. This model retails for $6,000 USD.
Bulgari
Bulgari is a legendary jewelry house, known for some iconic and eccentric designs. Their watches are equally special, and exceedingly impressive in both ingenuity and beauty. The watchmaking division is a Swiss subsidiary of the famed Italian jeweler.
Octo Finissimo
The Bulgari Octo Finissimo is a hyper-thin steel sport watch. When I say “hyper-thin” I mean the Octo Finissimo Ultra is less than 2mm thick. At one time, that was the thinnest watch in the world. The everyday version is equally impressive in its own right - the Octo Finissimo sports a very approachable 40mm case and is less than 7mm thick, making the watch melt onto the wrist. The self winding movement also has an impressive 60-hour power reserve. These watches retail for $13,300 USD.
Serpenti
I struggle to call the Bulgari Serpenti a “fashion watch”due to the horological significance, but it is undeniable, the Serpenti is a fashion icon. Recognizable from a distance away, this timeless ladies piece is a staple on the red carpet and on runways. Available in both two tone and full gold, you can decide how loudly you want to wear this piece. It is also available in a number of “lengths”, so to speak, giving wearers a lot of optionality. A classic steel Serpenti will set you back $6,200 USD.
Bulgari Bulgari
The Bulgari Bulgari. Why overcomplicate things? This is their entry level watch, after all. With a sleek round case and integrated bracelet, this watch can easily be dressed up or down to match the occasion. Fun dial options give the watch a lot of flare, while maintaining the classic allure. These iconic watches retail for $3,350 USD.
Zenith
Dating all the way back to 1865, Zenith is one of the world’s elite makers of chronograph watches - and, impressively, have produced movements in house since their inception. The legendary ‘El Primero’ movement is what helped build Zenith, and can be seen powering other watches throughout history, including the Rolex Daytona. Having mastered this incredibly complex movement, Zenith has enjoyed continued success making dependable sport pieces.
Chronomaster Sport El Primero
The Zenith El Primero is, without question, one of the most iconic chronographs ever. The movement itself has powered eponymous models as well as the chronographs of countless other brands throughout history. Zenith chronographs classically has tri-colored subdials, which help make them incredibly recongnizable. Modern variations include ceramic tachymeter bezels as well as some open worked variations. The highly sought after ceramic bezel version of the Zenith Chronomaster Sport retails for $11,000 USD.
Defy Skyline
Lovers of integrated steel bracelets will definitely be drawn to the gentle sloping case design and unique silhouette of the futeristic Zenith Defy Skyline design language. This line offers sleek finishes and a variety of options, including ceramic casing and skeletonized movements. These pieces have incredible presence and top-notch finishing. The steel versions retail for $9,000 USD.
Girard Perregaux
Another lesser known brand on this list, Girard Perregaux is as historic a watchmaker as there is, dating all the way back to 1791. Headquartered in La Chaux de Fonds, Girard Perregaux, GP for short, has been behind truly incredible pieces throughout history - so much so they felt it necessitated opening their own museum in 1999.
Laureato
The Laureato is a, in my opinion, very underrated integrated steel sports watch. Conceived in the 1970’s to respond to the Royal Oak, today, the line features incredibly clean case finishing as well as a host of complications. Ranging all the way from time & date to completely skeletonized pieces, this line really shows the range of Girard Perregaux as a watchmaker. If this elegant steel sports watch isn’t on your radar, it should be! One of these can be yours for $14,300 USD.
Bridges
Girard Perregaux’s Bridges line of open worked dress watches is where they really flex their muscles as an elite watchmaker. As the name suggests, these watches all feature a “bridge” (or bridges) to which components of the movement are anchored. Girard Perregaux has long been “making the invisibile visible” as they say, while managing to modernize this classic line through the use of ever evolving calibres and dial aesthetics. The prices for the Bridges start at $21,600 USD.
H. Moser & Cie
H Moser & Cie hails from a traditional background, but has become one of the more polarizing brands in the current watch world - known for poking fun at the seriousness of it all. You may know them from the “Apple Watch” they were behind, or more recently, for answering a critique about their perpetual calendar’s functionality by, quite literally, drawing it out. Founded by Heinrich Moser in St Petersburg, Russia in 1828, the current iteration of the brand that we know today launched in 2005. As a maker of horologically sound and complex pieces, where Moser really shines is their dials. They have pioneered brilliantly-colored dial production through laborious creation processes, their signature being strong colors that fade to a deep, rich black along the exterior of the case.
Streamliner
The H. Moser Streamliner features a gorgeously integrated steel bracelet and soft sloping, cushion-esque shaped case. Moser has used this timeless canvas to house their revolutionary perpetual calendar movement, as well as limited edition 60-minute flyback chronograph - all maintaining flawlessly clean dials. Most impressively, Moser teamed up with master watchmaker MB&F to make a unique minute repeater for Only Watch. The watch features a one-off movement by the brands, as well as a miniature panda DJ to play you the time (via the minute repeater of course). The centre seconds variation retails for $22,323 USD.
Endeavour
The H. Moser & Cie Endeavour line of dress watches has some truly captivating dials - including one in VantaBlack, the darkest shade of black available. Wearers can truly get lost looking at these pieces, as each dial option has depth and color characteristics that are as riveting as they understated. Without hour markers, there is nothing to take the eye away from the incredible color. These watches retail for $24,553 USD.
Tudor
In 1926, Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf had a vision - Rolex-quality watches that are accessibly priced. Drafting off the commercial success of Rolex, Wilsdorf launched Tudor with that vision in mind. The brands have long been intertwined - Tudor is still considered to be a sister company of Rolex. Both brands are still owned by the Wilsdorf family foundation. Despite being born in the shadow of a giant, Tudor has done a remarkable job of striking out as a distinct and exciting brand in its own right. The 2015 release of the Tudor-manufacutred MT5612 movement marked a massive step to solidify Tudor in this regard.
Black Bay
Tudor is a brand rich in history outside of their big brother Rolex. They long supplied diver tool watches to elite aquatic military forces, like the Navy SEALs and the French Marine Nationale. The early iterations of the Tudor diver were simple, legible, and highly useful. Today, the heritage-inspired Tudor Black Bay line shares all the same attributes, with refreshing modern updates. Make no mistake, the modern Black Bay is decidedly a durable, legible tool watch, but it happens to be strikingly beautiful and understated. This is a watch that can handle the beach and the board room. Complication, strap, and case material options adorn the line. With options like a full bronze case and bracelet, a chronograph, and GMTs, there is a lot to love in the Black Bay - all starting at 3,775 USD.
hublot
Hublot is a relative newcomer on this list, having only been founded back in 1980. Still, at only 43 years in business, the “young” brand has accomplished a ton of recognition - chiefly through some heavy-hitting athlete endorsements, most notably French footballer Kylian Mbappe.
Big Bang
The Hublot Big Bang line is an incredibly diverse and deep line, featuring a variety of case materials, complications, and limited editions. There are even Big Bang ‘Connected’ smart watches for some modern flare. The impressive “complications” collection features some impressive tourbillon options, as well as a piece constructed entirely from sapphire. The original Big Bang retails for $12,900 USD.
Classic Fusion
The piece most recognizable in the collection in the Classic Fusion, a no-nonsense watch with a clean circular case and seemingly countless configurations. With many options being offered on rubber straps, the Classic Fusion is a versatile piece that can be worn in any setting. Moonphase and chronograph complications give fans of the Classic Fusion plenty of diversity in the offerings, and with a number of case sizes, there is a variation to fit every wrist. This piece will run you $8,200 USD.
Breguet
Not only is Breguet one of the oldest watch brands in existence, but Abraham Louis Breguet is also a massively important watchmaker in history. He is the creator of the gravity-defying tourbillon, and his eponymous brand continues to dazzle and innovate in today’s modern watch world - and has done so since 1775.
Classique
The Breguet Classique, despite the conservative name, has been a place for this historic watchmaker to put on a clinic for us, so to speak. The line features some truly intuitive asymmetry and complications that push the collection well beyond the confines of traditional dress watches, including calendars and power reserve indicators - and thats even before you get to the “Classique Complications” line. The small seconds version starts at $22,700 USD and goes up from there.
Type XX
Initially designed for the French Military, the Breguet Type XX 2057 and 2067 were recently reintroduced into the line to a welcome return. These self-winding chronographs feature options both with and without a 12-hour counter sundial and rotating bezel. Breguet has done an excellent job maintaining the military heritage, but with some refreshing moderinzations. Both variations are available for $18,000.
tissot
Tissot is an absolute fixture in the watch world. Founded back in 1853, Tissot has become one of the more widely recognized watch brands on the market, on the back of some very successful sponsorship campaigns. With a massive catalogue and very approachable price points, Tissot is a favorite of watch collectors everywhere. Don’t let that fool you, though - Tissot is a bonafide watchmaker with some impressive achievements in its past. They were the first to mass-produce a pocket watch, and can also be credited with bringing anti-magnetism to wristwatches.
PRX
Those that follow watches, especially on social media, cannot have missed the craze of the PRX. This watch was an instant success after being re-released in 2021. Originally released in 1978, the early iterations of the PRX were powered by quartz - a novel technology at the time. We have a chance encounter to thank for the return of the PRX, as newly minted Tissot CEO Sylvian Dolla happened upon the original 1978 version in the firms archives just a few short days into his tenure. The line was fast-tracked to production and hit the market initially with quartz movements, before eventually adding automatic options. The line has already expanded to include an automatic, integrated chronograph, courtesy of Valjoux (a fellow Swatch member). I don’t expect the complications to stop there for this line, and will be watching closely into the future to see what Tissot will surprise us with next. The Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 version retails for $725.
Longines
Dating all the way back to 1832, Longinges originated in Sait-Imier, but after enjoying early success, opened their first mass-productions factory in ‘Les Longines’ - hence the current name. Longines was an early producer of complicated pocketwatches, which bolstered their appeal. In 1878 they launched their first monopusher chronograph, helping to forge a bond between the brand and horse racing, serving as an official timekeeper. Longines continued to deepen their sporting ties, even serving as the official time keeper to the French Open.
Heritage Classic
You may have seen Mr. Wonderful, notable watch collector Kevin O’Leary, gushing over a Longines Heritage Classic at Bucherer Time Machine in New York. Well, it was rightfully deserved. The Longines Heritage classic is a gorgeous piece with a classic sector-style dial and small seconds complication. The overall aesthetic of the watch is heritage-inspired, but with some tasteful modern touches. With options on both a steel bracelet and a leather strap, the Longines Heritage Classic is a very versatile watch that can be dressed up or down with ease. At only $2,425 USD, the value here is incredible.
Spirit Zulu Time
For the jet-setters out there, you cannot miss the Longines Spirit Zulu Time GMT. Introduced back in 2022, on the back of success enjoyed by other models in the Spirit line, this is one of the most affordable ‘true’ GMT watches on the market. Highly legible and attractively understated, this pilot-style watch allows wearers to quickly jump the hour and date to their local time zone, while still referencing their home time zone. The Longines Spirit Zulu Time is vailable in both 42mm and 39mm case sizes, four dial colors, as well as bracelet and leather strap options. This capable watch retails for $3,150 USD.
Hamilton
Hamilton has one of the more unique stories of the brands on this list. Despite being headquartered in Bienne, Hamilton was actually founded in the United States (Lancaster, Pennsylvania) back in 1892. They rose to prominence by cornering the market for railway workers in the United States. Later, during World War II, they put their consumer line on halt altogether to cater to outfit military services exclusively.
Khaki Field
Today, Hamilton’s military heritage is on display in their flagship watch, the Khaki Field. Powered by the hand wound Hamilton H-50 calibre, this heritage-inspired piece is aesthetically reminiscent of early military watches. Both the black and white dial variations of the watch feature a faux-tina on the hour markers, as well as sharply contrasted arabic numerals for legibility. Offered on both a steel bracelet and textile NATO strap, this is truly the quintessential field watch. Wear it to the office, to the bar, to your hunting trip. The Hamilton Khaki Field can handle it all - at only $675 USD.
Mido
While Mido probably isn’t the most prominent name on this list, it’s definitely one that all watch lovers should know. The brand’s name is derived from the spanish ‘yo mido’, meaning ‘I measure’. Dating back over 100 years, this Biel/Bienne-based Swatch member consistently ranks highly on the list of “most chronometers produced” each year. They can also be credited with producing the first centrally-read chronograph in history. Mido has a deep catalog of styles and complications, all at super approachable price points.
Multifort
The Multifort was originally introduced in 1934 as the first watch in the brand’s history to feature a self-winding automatic movement. Now, generations later, it is a mainstay in the Mido catalogue, and is the canvas for a number of exciting complications. Chronograph, GMT, and Power reserve indicator are just a few of the options in the line. A second, “TV” shape square case design entered the line this year. For fans of life on the rugged side, the highly capable Ocean Star line also offers a wide array of complications with durable cases rated to 200 meter. The classic Multifort Chronometer retails at a modest $960 USD.
Baume & Mercier
This eponymous brand named for its historic founders is definitely one you should know. Rapidly approaching 200 years in business, this brand is behind some truly splendid and accessible pieces. Whether you're starting your collection, or supplementing it, Baume et Mercier needs to be on your radar.
Clifton
The Clifton line of dress watches is one where Baume et Mercier really shows off their range as a manufacturer of fine watches. The lower end of the line features steel casing and date complications, while the top end boasts gold casing and perpetual calendar-type complications. Regardless of which end of the spectrum you find yourself at, rest easy knowing that all the watches in this line are COSC certified chronometers. These pieces retail starting at $3,300 USD.
Riviera
It’s no surprise that a legacy watch brand such as this one has an answer to the iconic integrated steel models of yesteryear. Enter, the Riviera - a line of integrated steel bracelet pieces that display careful craftsmanship and finishing all around. Available in a variety of sizes, as well as with diamond-set versions, this watch is equally appealing to the ladies also. You can pick one up today for $4,250 USD.
