Hands-On Review of the TAG Heuer Carrera "Glassbox" Chronograph
It seems that every brand is releasing a “vintage-inspired” watch these days. We even did an episode of the Wrist Enthusiast Radio podcast talking just about this. And while we like many of the releases, not many of the brands releasing these retro-looking timepieces actually have the heritage to draw upon.
TAG Heuer is not one of these brands. TAG Heuer, well really Heuer, has plenty of handsome vintage pieces of yesteryear to take design inspiration from, and I am happy to report the brand has been doing just that. In honor of the 60 year anniversary of the Carrera, the brand released the new Carrera “Glassbox” that is chock full of vintage callbacks. I for one am very happy about the release, and was able to check out both the sunray blue dial model as well as the more classic reverse panda model.
The first thing you will notice is the so-called “glassbox” construction of these new stainless steel Carrera models (hence the nickname). And what does that mean exactly? Well, the watches utilize a domed crystal that extends over the whole case and dial, leaving the watch without a bezel. This was case construction used in some of the earliest Carrera models released in the 1960s and gives the watch a very vintage feel. Being a chronograph, you still get the tachymeter, but instead of on the bezel as you typically see on a chrono, the scale is actually inside the crystal on the dial, albeit raised from the rest of the dial and on the outer most portion of the dial. It works well, as this is where a tachymeter scale would be anyway if there was a bezel.
Because of this raised tachymeter scale, there are a lot of depths to the dial that add to the visual interest on both models I reviewed. The domed crystal would have been hesalite on the original models, but here TAG Heuer uses sapphire crystals with AR (anti-reflective) treatment. I’m all for continuing to use old materials on certain important watches (like hesalite on the Speedmaster) but sometimes having the modern upgrades just makes for a better, higher quality watch. And with a crystal that extends over the edge of the watch, it makes sense opting for scratch-proof sapphire.
While the dial and crystal has a smoothed, curve feel, the lugs and rest of the case is actually rather angular. This gives the watch a sportier feel, perfect for the racing chronograph that that the watch is. The watch still sits nicely on the wrist and doesn’t wear overly large.
At 14mm thick, the watch is not slim by any means. Don’t expect this watch to wear like a Rolex Daytona. However, 3mm of this thickness is purely the domed crystal, and a thicker watch is to be expected from a watch using a domed or box crystal.
At 39mm in width and 46mm lug-to-lug, the Glassbox is an easy wear for just about anyone. Under 40mm seems to be standard sizing for vintage inspired timepieces and TAG Heuer just stayed under 40mm with this release. On my 6.75 inch wrist, the watch fits perfectly.
I reviewed the blue sunray dial variation of the Carrera Glassbox (Ref. CBS2210.FC6534) and the black dial “reverse panda” variation (Ref. CBS2212.FC6535). The main difference is that the blue dial version is a little more modern in its aesthetic, comes on a blue leathers trap and has the date at 6 o’clock (inside the 6 o’clock seconds subdial). The black, reverse panda version of the watch feels more vintage, includes silver subdials, and the date is at 12 o’clock above the word Carrera and the TAG Heuer logo. I understand that TAG Heuer is using the original placement of the date here, but I actually didn’t even realize it had a date until I looked closely. That’s how hidden the date becomes behind the chronograph seconds hand. Looking at the display caseback you will see that, even with the date a 12 o’clock, the movement has exactly the same specifications. TAG Heuer just put the date window at 12 o’clock instead. This version also opts for a perforated black leather racing strap that is comfortable and fits the look of the watch. Both variations come on a comfortable deployant clasp.
Speaking of the movement, the watch runs on the new TH20-00 automatic chronograph movement that features bi-directional winding. The watch has an impressive 80 hours of power reserve and is well finished. It operates at 4 Hz (28,800 vph) and is really is an upgraded variation of the Heuer 02 movement. Looking through the display caseback, you can see the watch is well-finished and the rotor is designed to look like the TAG Heuer logo. It’s a nice touch.
As to which version I like better. Its hard to say. I probably prefer the more vintage-style reverse panda model, and I suspect many collectors would agree. However, most of my family and friends who saw both models and are not enthusiasts actually preferred the sunray blue model. But, I mean, who doesn’t love a sunray blue dial?
Overall, I am happy to see TAG Heuer get back to its roots with its most recent releases, including the new Glass Chronographs as well as the new TAG Heuer Skipper. You can pick up both the sunray blue and reverse panda models of the TAG Heuer Carrera Glassbox for $6,450 USD.
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